So, I just noticed the "crack" in my Renegade stock on the left side near the lock bolt. What the best way to repair this? I acquired this stock a few months back and using it with an aftermarket barrel.
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REPAIRING A TC RENEGADE STOCK
- Thread starter wapiti22
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If you want the best suggestions, post a clear photo!
Larry
typical T/C stock crack from over tightening lock bolt , spread it open as best you can[ from the inside if possible] and glue it with a good wood glue. [ titebond, ect] snug is good on lock bolts. notice how side plate [ washer] has dug into the wood
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Some will say to just glue it back together and move on. May work for a while, but stress causes stocks to crack or break…..
In my experience, you cannot just fill the cracks and expect it to hold long term without re-enforcing the repair some how. Below is an explanation of how I make this type of reenforcement/repair. I have posted it before.
Later TCs replaced The forward tang wood screw with a machine screw that went through the tang, stock and trigger plate, and then threaded into the trigger guard, effectively clamping the stock between the tang and trigger guard. This was TC’s way of stopping their new stocks from cracking and requiring replacement under their ‘lifetime’ warranty. Older TC trigger assembles have a spring in front of the trigger that doesn’t allow this retrofit with out replacing the trigger (RE Davis Deerslayer triggers for example have the clearance hole). What I have done to many TC stocks (before any crack or after a crack repair) is to replace the two wood screws in the tang with machine screws and threaded inserts in the trigger mortise, similar to what Lyman does on their GPR. Knock on wood, but have not had one crack or re-crack after this reinforcement has been made. Here are a few photographs to help explain.
When repairing structural cracks I avoid the wood glues and Gorilla Glue, though great adhesives. If the crack opens up again from stress these glues will not adhere to the old cured repair. Accuraglass on the other hand will adhere to old repairs and allow you to build up the repair area if needed. Just my opinion.
In my experience, you cannot just fill the cracks and expect it to hold long term without re-enforcing the repair some how. Below is an explanation of how I make this type of reenforcement/repair. I have posted it before.
Later TCs replaced The forward tang wood screw with a machine screw that went through the tang, stock and trigger plate, and then threaded into the trigger guard, effectively clamping the stock between the tang and trigger guard. This was TC’s way of stopping their new stocks from cracking and requiring replacement under their ‘lifetime’ warranty. Older TC trigger assembles have a spring in front of the trigger that doesn’t allow this retrofit with out replacing the trigger (RE Davis Deerslayer triggers for example have the clearance hole). What I have done to many TC stocks (before any crack or after a crack repair) is to replace the two wood screws in the tang with machine screws and threaded inserts in the trigger mortise, similar to what Lyman does on their GPR. Knock on wood, but have not had one crack or re-crack after this reinforcement has been made. Here are a few photographs to help explain.
When repairing structural cracks I avoid the wood glues and Gorilla Glue, though great adhesives. If the crack opens up again from stress these glues will not adhere to the old cured repair. Accuraglass on the other hand will adhere to old repairs and allow you to build up the repair area if needed. Just my opinion.
I like your idea SDSmlf. What size are those screws and inserts? I'm guessing 8 - 32's
I use 10-32 screws and E-Z LOK brass inserts. They are available in different sizes and materials. I buy them 25 to a pack.
Attachments
It works like a champ. I used this process on 7 wmc, Renegade and big boar stocks and have been shooting very heavy loads out of them without issue. I have hunter triggers in mine so I am able to bolt both tang holes to the trigger and have bedded the tang and triggers. The photos below are sdsmlf photos but it is what I did to all of mine
Photos by @SDSmlf
Photos by @SDSmlf
BTW That is not from over tightening the bolt. That crack happened because the back of the tang is beating on the stock because of the tang not being secure in the stock. Sdsmlf solution will solve that. You might want to bed the tang where it hits the stock also. Standard comment on cracked stock is overtightened lock screw and that simply does not make sense.
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The WMC is probably the easiest to reinforce and the strongest once done. And I appreciate the kind words.
A couple of tips.
- If/when you bed the tang, put a .010” to .015” thickness of tape on the end of the tang before bedding. After you have removed the tape you will have a slight clearance between the end of the tang and the stock wood. Without that clearance there is a chance the stock will chip, especially if you are shooting heavy ‘thumper’ loads.
- Before bedding the tang drill a hole that is a snug fit on a small rod (I believe I use an 8 penny nail with the tip ground flat) from the middle of the tang inlet to the trigger mortise. Before adding the bedding put that rod or nail in the hole, flush to the bottom of the tang, leaving the other end (the nail head in my case) extending into the trigger mortise. Follow the red arrow in the photograph below. Once the bedding has cured, gently tap the nail head to break the tang free of the bedding.
- I also suggest clearance between the tang bolt diameters and the holes through the stock. With a tight fit or no clearance you run the risk of the bolt(s) splitting the stock under heavy recoil. That thumper thing again.
Item 3: I also suggest clearance between the tang bolt diameters and the holes through the stock. With a tight fit or no clearance you run the risk of the bolt(s) splitting the stock under heavy recoil.
#3 Is important. The lock through bolt will crack the stock if it is not relieved so it does not touch wood. It doesn't matter whether it is tight or not.
#3 Is important. The lock through bolt will crack the stock if it is not relieved so it does not touch wood. It doesn't matter whether it is tight or not.
You can buy a bushing kit with the drill, bushings and installation wrench. I found the wrench to be very flimsy and broke it on my first bushing.
I found that getting a perfect bolt-bushing alignment is a real pain. I got one right and had to run a tap through the second one to have the alignment just right. One you get everything in it is rock solid.
I drilled out the stripped screw holes and put hickory dowels in for strength. I have stained the rear dowel so it wouldn't show. I stained the front one later.
My repaired TC, I used 10/32 screws.
Rock solid;
I found that getting a perfect bolt-bushing alignment is a real pain. I got one right and had to run a tap through the second one to have the alignment just right. One you get everything in it is rock solid.
I drilled out the stripped screw holes and put hickory dowels in for strength. I have stained the rear dowel so it wouldn't show. I stained the front one later.
My repaired TC, I used 10/32 screws.
Rock solid;
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Wapiti22,
Manufacturing tolerances swing both ways on all the parts coming into play.
When the the barrel is hooked in, then lowered into position in the barrel channel in the stock, if it clicks or rather pops into position then there is stress being applied across that section of the stock where your crack appeared. That's where TC removed the most wood and the stress is being applied perpendicular to the direction of the grain. And every time the gun goes off it get a karate chop.
If the tolerances have added up playing against you and made the barrel cam into position like that then the solution needs to include removing the source of the stresses. The barrel can be bottoming out, applying pressure, and not actually popping into position too.
This is from old instruction sheet for drop-in barrels to fit TC rifles, included here to illustrate the idea some attention to fitting may be needed.
This is a repair on a 2nd or 3rd hand trashed Renegade named Ol' Ugly. After the epoxy cured the screw was cut and filed flush, the stock stronger than the day it left the factory. I'm threatening to fit it out with a .40 bore barrel and extended eye relief scope for use with an adjustable length hollow base paper patch mold.
Manufacturing tolerances swing both ways on all the parts coming into play.
When the the barrel is hooked in, then lowered into position in the barrel channel in the stock, if it clicks or rather pops into position then there is stress being applied across that section of the stock where your crack appeared. That's where TC removed the most wood and the stress is being applied perpendicular to the direction of the grain. And every time the gun goes off it get a karate chop.
If the tolerances have added up playing against you and made the barrel cam into position like that then the solution needs to include removing the source of the stresses. The barrel can be bottoming out, applying pressure, and not actually popping into position too.
This is from old instruction sheet for drop-in barrels to fit TC rifles, included here to illustrate the idea some attention to fitting may be needed.
This is a repair on a 2nd or 3rd hand trashed Renegade named Ol' Ugly. After the epoxy cured the screw was cut and filed flush, the stock stronger than the day it left the factory. I'm threatening to fit it out with a .40 bore barrel and extended eye relief scope for use with an adjustable length hollow base paper patch mold.
Mad Professor
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This thread has been a good read.
I've got a renegade that had a similar crack. Good glue has held up, so far...
I've got a renegade that had a similar crack. Good glue has held up, so far...
All good suggestions, thanks. I'm refinishing this stock and replacing the barrel with a 54 cal. 1 - 28 twist, 32 inch, that I had made for this stock. The stock had some significant dings and dents from use, so I needed to refinish.
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