I was trying to install a brass triggerguard, and the front lug on the triggerguard was over the top of the front of the trigger plate, so I decided to put a screw through the bottom of the trigger plate and into the front of the trigger bow to secure the triggerguard to the rifle. To make a long story short, I ended up cracking the triggerguard while trying to straighten it. It broke right where I drilled and tapped the hole for the screw to secure the triggerguard. Would it be possible to have this repaired, or would it be better just to buy a new one and start over again? It was a wax cast triggerguard, so it cost almost $20.
Repairing brass triggerguard
- Thread starter bioprof
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Hard to mask, I have cut away making a step in the gaurd and another piece of brass (matching color) then soldered the two together. Then by filing a decorative groove where the top splice was.
I end up cutting a lot of brass trigger gaurds off at the bow as well to change the grip rail for pistols as well.
The biggest thing you can do is anneal the brass by heating it up to a cherry and quenching it in water. This will make it easier to bend without (hopefully) cracking. Brass will work harden so the more you bend it the more you should anneal it. :thumbsup:
I end up cutting a lot of brass trigger gaurds off at the bow as well to change the grip rail for pistols as well.
The biggest thing you can do is anneal the brass by heating it up to a cherry and quenching it in water. This will make it easier to bend without (hopefully) cracking. Brass will work harden so the more you bend it the more you should anneal it. :thumbsup:
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:applause: Right on ! and silver solder can sometimes be used and a very skilful welder can braze a broken brass. Bob
bioprof; You mentioned that the trigger guard was a wax cast part.
IMO, that is good news and bad news.
The good news is the replacement part, assuming you are going to replace it, will be very close to the same size and shape as the old one.
The bad news is, it has been my experiance that most of the sand castings are Brass, while most of the lost wax castings are Bronze.
Brass after annealing bends very nicely. Bronze may or may not bend easily after annealing.
Most of the Bronze parts I've tried to bend, broke, with or without annealing. It all seems to depend on the type of Bronze.
I'm not alone in this observation. I have read several other builders who have had similar bad luck with Bronze, some of them going so far as to say they would never buy another investment casting, reguardless of what the seller claimed it to be made from.
As you have worked with the old guard, did a file cut into the material easily and cleanly or did the file seem to slip and slide before cutting?
I've noticed that Brass cuts easily while Bronze seems to be both hard and "greasy".
The bottom line is if there is a chanch that the part is Bronze, avoid bending it if you can. If you can't, be very careful.
IMO, that is good news and bad news.
The good news is the replacement part, assuming you are going to replace it, will be very close to the same size and shape as the old one.
The bad news is, it has been my experiance that most of the sand castings are Brass, while most of the lost wax castings are Bronze.
Brass after annealing bends very nicely. Bronze may or may not bend easily after annealing.
Most of the Bronze parts I've tried to bend, broke, with or without annealing. It all seems to depend on the type of Bronze.
I'm not alone in this observation. I have read several other builders who have had similar bad luck with Bronze, some of them going so far as to say they would never buy another investment casting, reguardless of what the seller claimed it to be made from.
As you have worked with the old guard, did a file cut into the material easily and cleanly or did the file seem to slip and slide before cutting?
I've noticed that Brass cuts easily while Bronze seems to be both hard and "greasy".
The bottom line is if there is a chanch that the part is Bronze, avoid bending it if you can. If you can't, be very careful.
I've cut and pieced together trigger guards, repaired and replaced broken front extensions, lugs the curl of the grip rail, and filed,and fitted to where you have a good fit ,no day light in the joint (when held up to a light source... like a sandwich, you, the work, the light behind the work) fluxed with Harris STAY SILV flux and silver soldered for high strenght joints I use air conditioning sticks for my brazing. When I'm all done with aligning it to where I want it, I'll solder it then clean up with files, which is some pretty tough solder to clean up..it's very hard but a file will cut it........George F.
Kinda hard to say without seeing it, but most likely I would braze it up. What ya go to lose ? If it don't work just buy another guard.
As for the lug being in the way, about half of the rifles I build I cut off & move the lugs on the triggerguard. Just move them where ya want them, silver solder them back on & go on.
:thumbsup:
As for the lug being in the way, about half of the rifles I build I cut off & move the lugs on the triggerguard. Just move them where ya want them, silver solder them back on & go on.
:thumbsup:
I ordered another triggerguard, as I don't have the equipment to braise brass. Of course, the new one I ordered was backordered. I've got an idea that I might try to fix it though. Since it is cracked (not all the way through by the way) right where I tapped the hole for the screw, I am thinking of getting a brass screw that goes all the way through the front of the bow and soldering it in place. I can then file it flush on the outside. I doubt that it would even be visible once it was filed off. Basically, I would be soldering it from the inside. I can then solder the lug further ahead on the triggerguard so that it doesn't overlap with the triggerguard.
Does this sound like a good plan? The only question that I have is how to solder the screw into the tapped hole. Do I tin the screw first and then just screw it in while the solder is still melted? Any words of advice?
Does this sound like a good plan? The only question that I have is how to solder the screw into the tapped hole. Do I tin the screw first and then just screw it in while the solder is still melted? Any words of advice?
when doing some lock repairs I've had to fill in a screw hole a few times. Just make sure that the threads are clean, flux the threads screw it in (the screw) and the solder will follow or flow into the threads when you heat the piece up. :thumbsup:
bioprof: Sounds like a plan. After it is done, it shouldn't look like much more than a little casting flaw.
As for soldering, I think the biggest problem will be having to throughly clean all of the oil out of the hole.
Here's what I think I would do:
1. Clean the internal threads with brake claner, acetone or lacquer thinner. Don't tin the screw.
2. countersink the hole
3. Apply flux into the hole and on the screw.
4. Install the screw.
5. Solder the screw at the mouth of the hole at the countersink, hoping some of it would penetrate the threads a little way.
I might also try to apply a little solder where the crack or exposed screw threads are.
I would try to avoid applying the heat directly to the screw.
6. Cut off the exposed screw.
There is really nothing trying to make the screw come loose so I think with solder at the mouth of the hole, it should be fine.
As for soldering, I think the biggest problem will be having to throughly clean all of the oil out of the hole.
Here's what I think I would do:
1. Clean the internal threads with brake claner, acetone or lacquer thinner. Don't tin the screw.
2. countersink the hole
3. Apply flux into the hole and on the screw.
4. Install the screw.
5. Solder the screw at the mouth of the hole at the countersink, hoping some of it would penetrate the threads a little way.
I might also try to apply a little solder where the crack or exposed screw threads are.
I would try to avoid applying the heat directly to the screw.
6. Cut off the exposed screw.
There is really nothing trying to make the screw come loose so I think with solder at the mouth of the hole, it should be fine.
I'd solder a strip of brass on the inside of the place where it broke. Tin both, heat, done. Then it will not crack again.
paulvallandigham
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Bioprof: Any machine shop should have the torches to do the brazing. I think you will find a lot of the men working there are into " guns", and might be thrilled to help out a guy who is building his own. Brazing is far better than soldering.
If the part is made of bronze, you have to do the bending while it is hot and malleable. YOu may have to mount a piece of pipe in your vise to act as the fulcrum to bend the guard into the new shape, but it can be done. An old fashion anvil is a wonderful tool to have at these times. You may need a couple of extra hands, so invite a buddy over.
If the part is made of bronze, you have to do the bending while it is hot and malleable. YOu may have to mount a piece of pipe in your vise to act as the fulcrum to bend the guard into the new shape, but it can be done. An old fashion anvil is a wonderful tool to have at these times. You may need a couple of extra hands, so invite a buddy over.
