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replacement lock?

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I'm saving up to get a good quality flinter. I finally got a chance to handle, not fire, a 50 caliber Great Plains flinter rifle and found it very comfortable. I was curious if there is a high quality replacement lock that can just drop into place like Green Mountain barrels fit my Renegade. It seems to me that combination would be a cost effective way to get a good quality rifle. If I had the skill (and I really don't) to build a good quality kit, I would but that isn't in the cards.

The rifle would be for paper and steel targets out to 100 yards, not hunting. I'm not concerned if it has coil instead of flat springs. Reliability and durability are more important than period correctness.

The alternative is to save up for a couple of years and get a custom flinter already made. I've never used a real custom ML but I hear so much about them it might be worth the wait to get a superior rifle I'll be able to use for the rest of my life (which could go another 30 or 40 years.)

Any thoughts? No matter which road I take, I'll still have to save up. It's just a metter of how long to save.

Thanks, Jeff
 
L&R makes a quality replacement lock for T/C's and Lyman production guns. I have never had one myself or even shot one but everyone I've ever known to have bought one had said it is a significant step up from the production locks made by both T/C & Lyman.

Same has been said by some on this forum. I understand that it is not exactly a drop in, you may have to remove some wood from the lock mortise.

http://www.lr-rpl.com/rpltc.htm
 
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There is normally nothing wrong with the locks that come on the GPR's. IMHO, the issues I see that happen with them are usually Newbie issues, not lock issues.
I have had 5 of them, 3 of them flinters, and didn't have a single problem with any of them. One of them I put over 5000 rounds thru it & it was still going strong on the same lock with no replacement parts when I sold it.

The only thing a GPR flinter needs is a vent mod & that is easily done in about 15 min & you are good to go.

Learn to make the rifle work with what is on it & by the time you get it working good & consistant, you will also be shooting it well.

:thumbsup:
 
I recently installed an RPL lock on a friend's GPR and the amount of inletting involved struck me as being significant.

Inletting black doesn't show up on black walnut worth a spit! Maybe try some of the gold stuff?

The hammer arc on his lock was screwed. No matter what we tried with different flint sizes, it would only tap the frizzen at one point or another. Once the RPL lock was installed, the flint raked approximately 2/3 of the frizzen and dumped a shower of sparks directly into the pan.

We did have to modify the touch hole liner considerably, but these two modifications combined produced the instantaneous ignition Mark was looking for. His GPR is now quite the shooter!
 
I have an LR RPL lock for a Dixie Squirrel Rifle. I bought it as a replacement in case I ever needed it. Haven't needed it yet.

However, this lock sits at my desk as a paperweight and I often pick it up and spark it.....sparks really well, and the flint in it has had many many strikes (at least 50, maybe twice that...dunno, didnt' keep count) and is still quite good (it is my own homemade from Central TEXAS flint).

Two negatives: 1) the half-cock location does not provide quite as much distance to the frizzen face as I would like...requires a slightly shorter flint than I would prefer.... 2) the flint comes to rest pointing towards the front of the pan, and this seems to be the center of the spark-fall....however, as I said, this jewel showers sparks so well that it would not have a problem firing the pan anytime.

On the whole I am quite happy with it, as with other LR locks I have on custom guns.


YHS,
rawdog
 
The L&R lock does require you to remove a lot of wood. Is your Renegade a flintlock already?
 
Mark,
My Renegade is a percussion. My current flintlock is an old Traditions Shenandoah, diffrent from their current version, that I got over 20 years ago. It still enjoy it and it works fine but has a pistol size lock so I was thinking about something a bit more substantial. That's where the Great Plains rifle came in.

Thanks for all the feedback, everybody. I suspect I'll go with the Lyman as a start and add the replacement lock if and when needed.

Part of this interest is from watching the other shooters on the line during ML competition. The guys, and a few women, with the flintlocks always seem to have an extra smile while they shoot, even compared to when using their percussion guns. I know that happens to me. This isn't to knock caplocks. I've got plenty of 'em and always enjoy using them. The flinters just seem to extend the fun.

Thanks again.

Jeff
 
BullRunBear, you are right. i don't know why, but flint seems more fun to shoot than just about anything..

go with the original lock, and before you go to the trouble and expense of replacing it, do the usual tinkering with the less expensive and much- easier- to- fix stuff, starting with the touch hole liner, frizzen spring (often too stiff in factory locks, but that's just one guy's opinion) and the usual tinkering bevel- up- bevel- down stuff.

playing with it is half the fun!

make god smoke!
 
L&R made a replacement lock for TCs years and years ago when TCs first Flintlock assembly was not designed as welkl as it could have been.
In the mid/late 90's TC redesigned their Flintlock assembly and they now lack for nothing...not need to get any 3rd party substitutes anymore, etc...just get TCs current production redesigned lock assembly.

I've converted several TC Hawkens from cap to Flint...selling the cap lock and cap barrel to offset some of the cost of a new Flint lock and Flint barrel...you can convert a Renegade as well...saves the cost of a new stock.
TC also makes 1:66" round ball barrels for the Hawken & Renegade, outstanding quality and accuracy.
You can call TC's Fox Ridge outlet store in NH at 800-243-4570 for more info
 
-----YEA--Lyman's don't kick as bad as T.C. & are better looking & handling--I have a T.C. Hawkins 45 perc. it kicks the snot out of me even with 50 gr load--black & blue shoulders & cheeks--no problem with ANY OTHER muzzleloaders I've shot-----
 
Thanks again for the feedback. I'm going with the Great Plains rifle and getting the 57GPR rear sight at the same time. My trifocals don't get along with rifle sights too well and I can't wear contact lenses anymore. I like the idea of the hooked breach for easy cleaning (I'm spoiled with the Renegade percussion I've been using for 20 years.)If needed, I can get the L&R replacement lock but I'll see if the Lyman lock is up to snuff before I worry about it.

Regards, Jeff
 
Birddog6 said:
There is normally nothing wrong with the locks that come on the GPR's. IMHO, the issues I see that happen with them are usually Newbie issues, not lock issues.
I have had 5 of them, 3 of them flinters, and didn't have a single problem with any of them. One of them I put over 5000 rounds thru it & it was still going strong on the same lock with no replacement parts when I sold it.

The only thing a GPR flinter needs is a vent mod & that is easily done in about 15 min & you are good to go.

Learn to make the rifle work with what is on it & by the time you get it working good & consistant, you will also be shooting it well.

:thumbsup:
Just curious birddog...what vent-mod are you talking about?
 
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