Replacing a sideplate?

[tmdreb]

Sorry for reposting this on a different board, but I think it's a better fit here.

I'm doing a few things to improve a Jukar flintlock rifle to learn some techniques at a low risk. I really dislike the sideplate, and I'm wondering if there's any difficulty I'm overlooking. Yes, I do know that the replacement must be a bit larger than the original. Anything else?

 

[Zonie]

Muzzleloader Builder's Supply has 154 different sideplates for sale.

Follow this link to see them.
http://www.muzzleloaderbuilderssup...a.cgi?cart_id=8252023.5090&product=Sideplates

Most if not all of the sideplates are imbedded in the stock so that they are either flush with the wood or a small amount of them stands proud.
Rarely are they just sitting on the surface of the stock.

If you decide to cut the inlay pocket to install a sideplate, do NOT trace around the metal with a pencil and then try to follow the line.

That will always end up making a pocket where there is a gap between the sideplate and the wood.

Instead, position the sideplate so the hole in it aligns with the existing bolt. Then, use magic glue to glue it in place.

Use a pointed craft knife like a X-Acto knife held against the side of the plate and then push the point down into the wood.
Do this all the way around the outside of the sideplate at least twice. Then,give the sideplate a rap with a plastic screw driver handle to pop it off.

Use a small chisel to remove the wood inside the incised cuts you made with the hobby knife to a depth that suits the thickness of the plate.

When you get done, there will be no gaps between the metal and the wood. It will look like it grew there.

 

[Birddog6]

A suggestion:
After you go all the way around it with the very tip of the Exacto knife, & have the plate removed, take a # 2 or #3 pencil & shade over your cut all the way around it. Then wet the tip of your index finger & wipe across the line you cut all the way around & that will move the pencil lead into the cut. Now take a eraser & lightly erase the excess lead & now you can Distinctly see the cut line.

Keith Lisle

 

[Col. Batguano]

It also wouldn't hurt to file a slight taper all the way around the plate, the inside being slightly narrower than the outside. This helps you maintain a tighter inletting as you go deeper in to the wood.

 

[crockett]

I'm learning here. Years ago I was told to bevel the inside of the edge to get a tight fit. I've done it that way but what happens to me is the piece to be inlet is sort of floating over the wood- about half way in. Then you have to widen the inlet all around the piece and if you aren't careful you can get a gap in a spot or two. I like the idea of screwing/bolting in the piece and then using an Exacto knife and the idea of the pencil rubbed area and then erase to leave a distinct line- really good. On the Exacto knife, it still seems to me that maybe a very slight bevel on the side of the edge might result in a really tight fit but....I'm only a mid-level rifle builder. When using the Exacto, do you keep the hobby knife at right angles to the stock and if so- how tight of a fit does that produce? Thanks.

 

[Luzur]

when i built my carbine i simply made my own sideplate, since i didnt have any to copy nor was anyone selling a copy.

 

[zimmerstutzen]

The jukar side plates were those flush brass things with the three bulbous ends. Hideous things. It almost requires a much larger plate to cover the old mortise. Too large for proper aesthetics. I thought about trying to match the grain with a piece of veneer and filling the old mortise to start over. I have seen this done on one jukar. But the owner dyed the stock black with India ink and left all the hardware mirror polished in the white
looked like a plastic stock but sharp looking.

 

[tmdreb]

Thank you all! Good things here I never would have found on my own. I'll let you know how it goes.