Repro 1863 Remington "Zouave" problem.

[lyman54]

So went to the range today to try out new sight picture. Got 3 shots off then downhill from there. Cocking the hammer back then squeezing the trigger the hammer stops short of the nipple. The lock is working as it should outside the rifle but not inside. I had the same sort of trouble in the past and a gunsmith shaved some of the inletting. For a year it worked now suddenly it doesn't. Other than making room for the lock parts can the inletting be removed leaving the area empty? Any help here would really be appreciated. It's not a youngster made in 1975 by Armi Jager. Thanks

 

[bang]

Inleting can be tricky. I have a Kentucky that for the longest would not stay solid at half cock and if you pulled the trigger the hammer would drop. I took it apart and put thin coat of white grease on perimeter of lock and gently pressed it in place checking for rocking also. I whittled and trimed till the lock fit flush and 99.9% of the rocking was gone plus nothing of the lock parts touched the stock. It still did same thing. Just for grins I backed off the screws holding the lock like 1/32" not enough to make them loose by any means. It still didn't feel exact but by far better. Backed off screws another 1/64". Been working fine ever since. You may have some swelling that has caused a repeat but my point is once you figure that part out don't over torque the screws. Overtorquing may not cause immediate issues but might over time. Once I got mine to work properly I made a couple of index marks for the screws.

 

[Zonie]

It's possible for the arm on the sear that sticks out toward the trigger to be bottoming out in the clearance hole in the stock.
Over time, if the lock was installed with the lock screws in the left hand side of the stock were very tight, the wood in the lock mortise can become compressed allowing the lock to move inward towards the barrel.
This moves the end of the sear arm closer to the clearance hole bottom and if it hangs up there the sear won't be fully released when the trigger is pulled.

Rather than trying to drill the clearance hole deeper, try using a good flat metal cutting file to file about 1/32" to 1/16" off of the end of the arm. Usually the sear arm isn't fully hardened like the nose of the sear is so filing it shouldn't be too difficult.

Even if this isn't the problem, removing 1/32" to 1/16" won't cause problems because the sear arm in these reproduction guns always goes way past the trigger blade.

 

[lyman54]

Inleting can be tricky. I have a Kentucky that for the longest would not stay solid at half cock and if you pulled the trigger the hammer would drop. I took it apart and put thin coat of white grease on perimeter of lock and gently pressed it in place checking for rocking also. I whittled and trimed till the lock fit flush and 99.9% of the rocking was gone plus nothing of the lock parts touched the stock. It still did same thing. Just for grins I backed off the screws holding the lock like 1/32" not enough to make them loose by any means. It still didn't feel exact but by far better. Backed off screws another 1/64". Been working fine ever since. You may have some swelling that has caused a repeat but my point is once you figure that part out don't over torque the screws. Overtorquing may not cause immediate issues but might over time. Once I got mine to work properly I made a couple of index marks for the screws.

Thank you bang. Good advice.

 

[lyman54]

It's possible for the arm on the sear that sticks out toward the trigger to be bottoming out in the clearance hole in the stock.
Over time, if the lock was installed with the lock screws in the left hand side of the stock were very tight, the wood in the lock mortise can become compressed allowing the lock to move inward towards the barrel.
This moves the end of the sear arm closer to the clearance hole bottom and if it hangs up there the sear won't be fully released when the trigger is pulled.

Rather than trying to drill the clearance hole deeper, try using a good flat metal cutting file to file about 1/32" to 1/16" off of the end of the arm. Usually the sear arm isn't fully hardened like the nose of the sear is so filing it shouldn't be too difficult.

Even if this isn't the problem, removing 1/32" to 1/16" won't cause problems because the sear arm in these reproduction guns always goes way past the trigger blade.

Thank you Zonie, more great advice. Going to try all of it and post results.

 

[lyman54]

It's possible for the arm on the sear that sticks out toward the trigger to be bottoming out in the clearance hole in the stock.
Over time, if the lock was installed with the lock screws in the left hand side of the stock were very tight, the wood in the lock mortise can become compressed allowing the lock to move inward towards the barrel.
This moves the end of the sear arm closer to the clearance hole bottom and if it hangs up there the sear won't be fully released when the trigger is pulled.

Rather than trying to drill the clearance hole deeper, try using a good flat metal cutting file to file about 1/32" to 1/16" off of the end of the arm. Usually the sear arm isn't fully hardened like the nose of the sear is so filing it shouldn't be too difficult.

Even if this isn't the problem, removing 1/32" to 1/16" won't cause problems because the sear arm in these reproduction guns always goes way past the trigger blade.

I tried your suggestion and bang's with success. The old girl seems to be back on track. Many thanks.

 

[lyman54]

Inleting can be tricky. I have a Kentucky that for the longest would not stay solid at half cock and if you pulled the trigger the hammer would drop. I took it apart and put thin coat of white grease on perimeter of lock and gently pressed it in place checking for rocking also. I whittled and trimed till the lock fit flush and 99.9% of the rocking was gone plus nothing of the lock parts touched the stock. It still did same thing. Just for grins I backed off the screws holding the lock like 1/32" not enough to make them loose by any means. It still didn't feel exact but by far better. Backed off screws another 1/64". Been working fine ever since. You may have some swelling that has caused a repeat but my point is once you figure that part out don't over torque the screws. Overtorquing may not cause immediate issues but might over time. Once I got mine to work properly I made a couple of index marks for the screws.

As I told Zonie I tried both your suggestions and things are working now. It actually needed what both of you told me. Many thanks for sharing your knowledge. Until it went south on me I was getting very good results with a patched RB.

 

[Grenadier1758]

And remember that when you tighten down the lock bolts, keep the torque to snug and avoid more compression of the wood and issues in the future.

 

[lyman54]

And remember that when you tighten down the lock bolts, keep the torque to snug and avoid more compression of the wood and issues in the future.

Right on, thanks. I did notice that the wood is easily compressed.

 

[Eddie2002]

I've found that with some guns if the lock bolts are tightened too tight they will protrude through the lock plate just enough to rub on the inside of the hammer causing it to jamb. I've seem it mainly with locks that have two mounting screws like the Traditions and CVA locks. It's kind of a common problem on their pistols also. Just something else to check when troubleshooting a weak hammer strike. Good to hear you got the old girl working.

 

[bang]

Good that it was simple. Simple usually fixes most things and is always the best place to start.

 

[lyman54]

I've found that with some guns if the lock bolts are tightened too tight they will protrude through the lock plate just enough to rub on the inside of the hammer causing it to jamb. I've seem it mainly with locks that have two mounting screws like the Traditions and CVA locks. It's kind of a common problem on their pistols also. Just something else to check when troubleshooting a weak hammer strike. Good to hear you got the old girl working.

Thank you Eddie. Very relieved to have it working, love that rifle. It also has 2 lock screws so I'm careful now on how tight they are. I've had a few Pietta cap'n'ball revolvers and made sure that the screws were not to tight. Matter of fact the last one I had the screws were so tight from the factory I had to take it to a smith as I don't have the proper screw drivers. BTW send some warm Florida sun up north please, doesn't want to warm up here.

 

[lyman54]

Good that it was simple. Simple usually fixes most things and is always the best place to start.

Agreed. Thanks again.

 

[EC121]

Once I get things properly inlet, I put wood glue or a drop of epoxy(just a thin coat)under the side plate at the screw holes and on both ends of the lock plate. This hardens the wood and prevents a lot of compression. It can also help prevent chipping around the inlet. Need to be careful with the epoxy.

 

[lyman54]

Once I get things properly inlet, I put wood glue or a drop of epoxy(just a thin coat)under the side plate at the screw holes and on both ends of the lock plate. This hardens the wood and prevents a lot of compression. It can also help prevent chipping around the inlet. Need to be careful with the epoxy.

Yes I can see how that will work, thanks. I saw how compression is a problem with mine. Not sure what type of wood it is, hardwood of some type but it is easily compressed, maybe just because that area is not very thick. It now works better than before. There are 2 distinct clicks at half cock and full cock where before only at half cock. Main spring is very strong and no wear in the lock. Sure glad I asked here as I was feeling desperate. Going to look into your advice.Thank you