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brottenberger

32 Cal.
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Oct 10, 2007
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Hello All, I am new to this forum but not new to muzzleloading or rifle kit building. I've been shooting caps and rocks since 1983. My first kit was a TC Hawken, built at the same time.
Now that I've past the half century mark and the kids are gone - well out of the house anyway - I have a couple of rifle projects that I want to complete. There are, maybe 3 or 4 rifles I want to build, namely a Jaeger, a Tennessee, a Vincent Ohio, and a Golden Age or Late Lancaster.
I have looked at the kits sold by TVM, Jedediah Star, Track of the Wolf, Sitting Fox, and several others. Wood and metal work or the required tools is not an issue, however, I still don't believe I have the time for a blank rough stock. Which is why I'm looking at 90-98% inlet stock kits.
I have no experience with the above mentioned suppliers. Can anyone give me some help as to the quality of their kits/products? Thanks
 
I've got a TVM Tennessee rifle, but it wasn't a kit (at least I didn't build it). But it's really a nice rifle and good quality, so that should be good. I'd recommend checking out Jim Chambers' kits.[url] www.flintlocks.com[/url]

I built a York rifle from one of his kits last year for my first build and it went really well. Extremely good parts and often called the best kit in the business. Also he's got great customer service and a really nice guy. They cost a bit more than other kits (but not that much more), and the quality is totally worth it. Match grade stuff is usually standard. Check it out for your Lancaster build.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey Bill,
Welcome to the forum.
I just purchased my second kit from TOTW.
Stocks are 90% enlet.
I got the Jacob Dickert kit for under $500.00
Just ordered it yesterday.
Track of the Wolf is a good place to deal with.
My first kit from them was the French Tulle.
Had a great time putting it together.
Ive got a pic in the gunbuilders section under Jacob Dickert.
 
When you fellas say 90% inletted what is left to do. I've always been curious to know what 90% really is? My tools are limited to a few wood chisels, and sand paper. I guess that's why Ive been hesitant to purchase one of these beautiful kits. I just don't want it to sit around.
 
As I recall, my mind being what it is, both of my TC kits were about 95% - 98% inlet. What I mean by that, and I assume, what manufactures mean is there is some wood work that is required to get a perfect metal to wood fit. I had to work all areas where metal met wood. Granted it was mostly cleanup work to get a good fit. I also had to work the wrists and butt stock, thining them out some. They were not just put the parts together kits.
 
I have only done TC&CVA kits. We put one TC Hawken together in one day. Everthing but the finish.It was my wifes Uncle"s kit. The hard work part is done. Mostly just fit the parts to the inlets. Dilly
 
On my Chamber's kit, I had to scrape a good bit of the barrel channel (a 1/4" chisel turn backwards and dragged across the inlet flats works great), do a good bit to enlarge the lock and trigger inlets, shape a moderate amount of the butt stock, and lots of fine shaping. It also had a block of of the forestock still rough to use as a vice-mount without damaging the rest of the stock. All I had was a few chisels (almost always used the 1/4"), bought a 6 pack of various files from Home Depot, and several grades of sandpaper.

You will need access to a drill or better yet, a drill press for a couple of operations, and a tap and die for bolt-holes to screw the lock to the stock, and for the touch-hole liner. I was a little intimidated by this, but all of these operations turned out to be way easier than I thought. There's some great info here. Also, get George Shumway's book "Recreating the American Longrifle." It's got all kinds of information. These kits are more work than the factory made "Hawken" kits, but they are totally worth the effort. One of the most fun projects I've ever done.
 
The last 10% can be very time consuming.
You have to shape the butt stock,thin the forearm and finish the wood to metal fit.
All kits are different.
Some require more or less work.
Jim Chambers kits are the best,But you will pay for it.
TOTW kits need more work but they can cost less.
TVM kits have the butt shaped and the vent liner installed,but again you will pay extra.
Its a matter of preference.
 
Everyone sees it differently, but to me a T/C or CVA or Lyman "Kit" is an assembly kit. Meaning you scrape, file a lil, sand & put it together.

What these other places are calling Kits are really "Parts Sets" & you have to build it. They preinlet the stock & rough shape it, some more than others, but you still have the final fitting to do & it is MUCH more than any CVA or T/C kit. So building a rifle from the parts sets ifs a big strp from just the T/C assxembly kit.

You may want to order a Video from Jim Chambers & this way you will see all the details of what you are getting in to.

I suggest using Jim Chambers Flintlocks, Dunlaps Woodcrafts or Tip Curtis Frontier Shop. They have all 3 been reliable venders for parts for me for a long time. Personally I try to stay away from Tracks because everytime I have ordered a rifle parts set from them I end up waiting for months for a lock, or barrel or stock, etc. Others say they have good luck with them, guess it just depends on what ya order & also how many times.
 
Don't forget to give Pecatonica River a look.
They are the folks that make the stocks for TOTW and their prices are usually a bit better.

As Birddog6 says though, these "kits" are more of a set of semi finished parts except for the lock which is finished.

To finish one of these guns you will need sandpaper, flat files, chisels, drill bits, a electric drill (or equivalent),thread taps, a large Exacto knife or equivalent, screw drivers and a LOT of time.
A vise, mainspring vise, inletting black, vernier or dial caliper, vise grips, wire cutter, plastic mallet, center punch, hacksaw, sanding block and a pencil are also good things to have but most of them can be worked around if that is necessary.

zonie :)
 
Drop Steve an email and tell him what you are after. He can set you up with an "in the white" or made to any point of completion you like.He does excellent work. :thumbsup:

[email protected]
 
The Pennsylvania I just got from DGW was really easy to finish. I was kind of disappointing. Just sand, polish the brass and barrel and that was it.
Gunn
AUT PAX AUT BELLUM
 
No matter what kit or company you go with,
The most important thing is to get a good quality lock.
I purchased the Jim Chambers lock with my kit.
I think there the best.
Just my opinion.
Hope it helps.
 
+1

And to reitirate, get a good book like "Recreating the American Longrifle" and "the Gunsmith of Grenville County" is also a good one. which ever one you get, read it before you start. In fact, after reading mine and finishing my last rifle, I learned so much I plan on going back and reworking my GPR next summer.

Also, +2 on Pecatonica River. Another great company.
 
Last week I purchased the book:
the Gunsmith of Grenville County.
I was hesitant at first about spending $45.00 for a book.
But Im glad I did.
It will save me money,time and heartache in the long run.
Its already paid for itself with what Ive learned.
 
82nd, By now you've gotten the bug. You might as well just go ahead and spend every extra dime you have on books, tools and anything else related to gun building. Just a couple of years ago I too was shocked by the price books on the subject. Now I have enough money in books to buy the track kit you have and still want more!!! I'm beginning to rival the wife and her clothes shopping.
 
I know what you mean.
I told my wife Im getting her a rifle kit for Christmas.
Well, Ive not told her yet. :rotf:
 
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