Rifle Ordered -now what gear/supplies do I need to shoot?

[Whittlin Tom]

Hi folks. I am excited to say that I finally ordered my rifle -a .50 cal Early Lancaster from TVM. As everybody always laments, now I just have to wait 6-7 more months!

I poking around Cabela's website last night and looking at their accessories and wondered what each of you all considered traditional muzzleloading essentials, and what other goodies might not be essential per se, but are handy and worth buying.

Could you guys let me know what you think I need as far as accessories go? I appreciate the advice in advance!

 

[Whittlin Tom]

Here are the specs of the rifle I ordered:

Rifle Style: Early Lancaster
Caliber: .50 Caliber
Barrel: Rice Swamped 42" barrel
Lock: Chambers Deluxe Siler Flintlock
Triggers: Davis Model #006
Thimbles: Deluxe octagon
Patchbox: Brass Three-Piece
All Furniture: Brass
Barrel & Lock: Cold Blue Finished
Stock: Super Premium Curly Maple

I wanted to have one that looks kind of like the beautiful dickert here http://www.cherrytreefamily.com/dickertrifle.htm that Tom Caster made. If memory serves me right, its DerMuskatier's rifle.

 

[Whittlin Tom]

I am not wedded to buying things from Cabelas, it was just the first place I went searching for gear. Here is what I am thinking I might need:

1. Possibles bag
2. Powder Horn
3. Bore Butter
4. .45-.58 Caliber cleaning patches
5. Pan Primer/Nipple Charger
6. Cabela's Ramrod Cleaning Attachments
7. Cabela's Muzzleloader Powder Measure
8. Wooden Ball Starter
9. Cabela's .50- .59-Caliber Lubed Patches
10. Rightnour Quality English Flints
11. Hornady Great Plains Bullets (hunting?)
12. .50 Cal Muzzleloading Round Balls
13. Cabela's CO2 Load Discharger Kit and Replacement Cartridge (expensive, but worth it?)
14. Goex BPowder, 2 dif grains for prime & charge
15. I know I need a ramrod, but it will have to be a long one for that 42" barrel. I want to keep my wooden one pretty for the wall, but I want a solid workhorse to clean and perform other misc tasks. Any suggestions?

If there is anything I am missing, or if anybody thinks anything on that list is an unessential piece of gear that will just end up not getting used, please let me know.

I am hoping that all the combined knowledge on this forum will lead me towards getting the best gear -that which is actually useful and which lasts over the years.

 

[poordevil]

I like this fellow for bags and horns
http://www.rockymountainpowderhorns.com/More_Bags.html

 

[Zoar]

Forget the boolits... stick with round ball and yes they are great for hunting, too. Round ball simplifies life.

Less is more.

I am not sure if you had it on your list as I would need to go back and re-read it but you should have a Ball Puller in the likely event you make some mistake and need to PULL the ball after you have loaded it. It is maybe the most valuable accessory you could get. It is just a little spirally metal attachment that goes on the end of your ramrod. Cheap but priceless.

Also why not just use the ramrod that comes with the gun and not sweat about getting another?

 

[Tommy Bruce]

Keep an eye on the classified section for the extras. I would go with 3f powder, it will work fine in your .50 cal rifle and you can prime with it as well. No need for anything other than patched round ball, leave the other stuff alone. You might try track of the wolf for items, Cabela's stuff is expensive and sometimes garbage when it comes to traditional muzzleloading (I used to work there and was embarrassed at the quality and quantity of traditional muzzleloading items). Look at the links section, there is a ton of venders that sell traditional itmes. You might consider getting a ball puller instead of spending all of that money on a CO 2 remover. Depending on how much you get into it maybe a roundball mould to make your own bullets and don't forget patching material. Stay with natural fibers such as cotton or linen. It looks like you are going to get a beautiful rifle and with that rice barrel & Chambers lock it should be a fine shooter.

 

[Snow on the Roof]

I agree with Zoar, forget the bullets, at least for now, balls on your list .490 and .495. Try some bulk pillow ticking in .015 and .018 instead of the precut patches. With bulk patching I use a razor sharp patch knife and cut them at the muzzle. All things are possible but most probably the heavy slugs won't perform well with the barrels Matt uses. You didn't spec the barrel so I'm presuming it is a deep grove slow twist more commonly associated with a Lancaster style rifle. Again, don't be afraid of roundballs for hunting. Even the relativly small .50 is a dynamite deer killer!

I would also encourage you to try Track of the Wolf or Dixie Gunworks over Cabellas or Bass Pro for traditional BP supplies.

 

[Zoar]

I concur with that sage advice: Stay away from Cabelas, Bass Pro, Gander Mountain or any other soul-less, corporate pig-like company and stick with Track Of The Wolf or Dixie, or Stonewall or any of the other small companies---many with representatives on this very fine forum. Many small providers of accessories and guns and parts and you will find not only do you develop a friend and good adviser, but you also get a better deal! :thumbsup:

 

[Zoar]

You've got at least 6 months. I would caution you about quickly buying your accessories. You are doing the right thing by posting here first! and looking for input. :thumbsup: I admit I winced with all the Cabelas items on your list and as stated above truly recommend against buying from the big modern gun focused corporations. There are so many providers of accessories that need to stay in business and they need your money (and my) money. Cabelas does not need money from Traditional Flintlock folks in my opinion. :thumbsup:

Small operations like these are the ones I prefer to give my money to:
http://www.stonewallcreekoutfitters.com/
or
Track Of The Wolf
or Dixie Gun Works
or.... There are many. The longer you hang out here and the more projects you take on the more you find. Oh, and you can get hand knapped flints too from guys like Pierce. Buying them from one man operations like that will warm your heart.

 

[vern faulkner]

A few things that I would add to your list (unless you decide to make them yourself) are a good vent pick and a frizzen boot. The boot is not absolutely necessary, however, many B/P gatherings like to see them used just to add an extra layer of safety. Another small item to think about is a small tool set (usually attached to a ring of some sort). It
should have a tool to loosen the flint grip, maybe a short screw driver or two to remove the lock, and sometimes a small knapping hammer. Also a couple of short strips of leather of appropriate size for flint wraps. Just my :2 worth. Vern

 

[paulvallandigham]

Get a Range Rod that is 48 inches long. I have one made by Treso. Its stainless steel. You can also get range rods in Brass- both solid rod, or brass tubing from October Country and Cains, among others. They will make it to whatever length you desire.

I would not buy the jags Until I got the gun in hand. You want a cleaning jag to be .030" Smaller in diameter than the bore diameter of the barrel. That way, you can use soft, flannel cotton cleaning patch fabric to clean the barrel, and the fabric will slide nicely OVER the lands, instead of shoving crud ahead of it down into the breech end of the barrel.

When you pull back on the rod, the grooves in the jag will Catch on the cotton patch, which will blouse outwards from the jag. The catching of the fabric will push it into the grooves, and wipe the lands , pulling the crud out of the barrel with the now dirty patch.

Too many "packaged" jags come in too large a diameter for most guns. Its not a problem unless you don't own a hand drill, and a file. If you do, you can file down the brass jags to the correct diameter.(You need a caliper for this, too.)

Avoid jags that have threaded Brass stems at the back end. Brass work hardens, and some day, without any particular stress being placed on the jag, the threaded stem will simply break off, leaving the jag and patch stuck in your barrel. Track sells( as do other good vendors) jags that have a steel stem that is threaded in either 10/28 or 8/32 tpi. You want the thickest diameter stem you can buy for this kind of work.

Buy an adjustable powder measure that is NOT attached to the horn.( Safety) Get one with a funnel attached to the trunk of the measure to make it easier to pour the powder into the barrel.

Later, when you know the powder charge you will use for hunting, you can make a "fixed" powder measure out of wood, or antler, to use to measure out your powder charge in the field. Fixed powder measures can be as crude, or as artistic as you desire. The function is the same.

As general Advice, don't run out and buy a lot of 'Stuff' before you have the gun in your hands. Retailers love guys who do buy without knowing what they have. Find some local BP shooters- a club-- and take guidance from other shooters on the best sources of the things you need, and the things you don't need. :hmm:

You will find that attending " Blanket shoots", where your entry fee requires you "donate" something to be a prize that is placed on a blanket, and the winner gets first choice, and on down to the last place finisher. Its a great way to get rid of stuff you bought that you can't use! :haha: :surrender: :thumbsup:

I bought both a patch puller jag, and a ball puller jag when I got my first rifle. I have yet to use that patch pulling jag in any of my guns. :shocked2: I know. :shake: If I didn't have it, I would need it every week I shoot :blah: :youcrazy: :nono: , so I keep it. It chases those "goblins" away, maybe! :idunno:

I don't even encourage new shooters to buy a hunting bag until they have a chance to shoot the gun, and get used to loading it. Most first time bags are Much too large, and guys carry too much stuff into the field. As you gain experience, you find yourself leaving more of that "Stuff" back in your range box at home, or in your vehicle, and carrying less and less gear. I am at the point of not really needing a shoulder bag at all when I hunt, making due with the pockets on my jackets, or with a belt bag.

A Ball block that holds no more than 6 PRBs ( 3 for deer hunting)already lubed is more than sufficient for most hunts.

Pre-measured powder charges in separate tubes can be carried in a pocket.

A modern rifle cartridge casing can be turned into a priming powder "horn", with a cork that fits the mouth of the casing- again, carried in a shirt pocket.

A few cleaning patches in either a container, or carried dry, in a pocket, will take care of that need.

On most hunts, unless its small game, varmints or waterfowl, you will take so few shots, I don't even bother with ball and patch pulling jags. They can be carried in a small tin in a pocket, or day pack( with flashlight, Rope, sandwiches, water bottle, compass, extra knife, towels, etc.).

I now use my belt bag to hold my wallet, keys, knife, and coins if I happen to be in my elk hide, leather pants with no pockets. If I am hunting only a few hundred yards from my car, I don't even take a day pack, opting to carrying a canteen on a web belt instead.

I may not be Pretty, or Historically correct, but this is not a fashion contest either. :shocked2:

 

[J.D.]

I concur with that sage advice: Stay away from Cabelas, Bass Pro, Gander Mountain or any other soul-less, corporate pig-like company and stick with Track Of The Wolf or Dixie,

IMHO, Dixie is over priced too. Compare prices with other ML suppliers before ordering.

Tom, you don't mention where you are from. If we know where you are located, we might be able to point you to a local shop that carries ML items, otherwise, it's mail order.

The Log cabin shop, Track, or Cabin Creek, among others are good places to get those items you need. Just don't get caught up in the gottahaves. As in you gotta have every neat thing you see, that you don't really need. :wink: Been there, done that, and wore out the Tee shirt.

IMHO, just stick with the basics until you find out what you really do need. Do you really need a hunting pouch, right now? Do you really need a ball discharger, right now? Do you really need the latest whiz bang range rod, with all of the bells and whistles, right now?

While I have a range rod, I don't use it all that much, especially on the range. Most of my shooting is in the woods, either at juried events, hunting, or primitive rendezvous, and the range rod would be just another item that is a PITA to carry and use, so don't get caught up with the necessity of using a range rod.

I prime out of the main horn, using my finger tip to meter out the appropriate amount of powder in the pan, so do you really need a pound of priming or a primer, right now?

IMHO, less is more. The more items you carry, the more junk ya' gotta keep up with, and the more junk ya' gotta keep up with, the less fun you will have.

I suggest that you find a local BP club to join, so's you can look at other folks gear, and ask questions of those who know what they are doing. Not all of those who appear to know what they are doing actually do know what they are doing, so be aware of those old gray beards who look like they just stepped out of the back woods. Generally speaking, the folks with somewhat worn, somewhat dirty, stained, clothing and gear that has the look of real use are the ones that know their stuff.

IMHO, you can even make some of your gear. Pouches and horns are easy enough to make, as are a lot of the small items you will need.

There are a LOT of suppliers offering manufactured and custom items, such as horns an pouches, for example.

Check out the items at these links for examples of usable items. I'm not implying that you should by custom, just that by being aware of what is out there, you can make an informed decision as to what you really want and need, instead of impulsively buying the first things you see.

http://www.longrifle.ws/forsale/default.asp?categoryID=2&age=Contemporary
http://contemporarymakers.blogspot.com/
http://www.kenscottpouches.com/

God bless

 

[Mr.Brooks]

Speaking as a practicing amateur you will find out part of the fun of muzzleloading is how you can improvise something into needed equipment. I use a Hickory Farms Hot Mustard container for my powder horn (hands down the best practical powder horn I ever tried), I hammered nails into various flat shapes for cleaning little nooks and crannies (I use them with a patch, no metal to metal scraping), I use old cigar tubes to hold premeasured powder and extra lead balls, my ramming rod was loose in the ferrules (rod holders?) and I wrapped them with dental floss to make a tighter fit. Pill bottles, old brass, candy containers, and duct tape have found their way into my possibles bag. If you want to go the authentic route and participate at rendevous then much of what I listed won't cut it. If you want to shoot and hunt at a more casual level then take your time and think what you need and what would be fun to try. I have found that black powder shooting and efficiency have a very little in common so if something doesn't work just log in the memory banks and try something else.

 

[JJB22]

I agree with the other folks, it is fun to make your own tools. The only thing I can add to the items needed list might be a gun case/sock/sleeve--something to protect your new honey back and forth to the stand, range, show and tell spot. :grin:

 

[biliff]

Initially, I wouldn't be in a hurry to get the carrying around stuff (pouch, horn, etc.) until you've had a chance to look around and see all the variety of stuff out there and can find something that matches up with your rifle. There is some really nice stuff out there (handmade and commercial) at reasonable prices.

Get the stuff you will need to make the gun go bang reliably, find an accurrate load and get it sighted in first as well as cleaning gear.

-Black Powder (you mentioned Goex FFFg)

- Brass priming flask

-Good flints (English or French, guessing 3/4" for your Siler lock)

-Leather wrap

-Round Ball, .490 and .495 to start. Molds can be purchased later when you settle on a load.

-Patching, I would get the precut(unlubed) in a couple of different thickness (.010, .015, .018)first since you're in the testing phase. Once you settle on a load you can buy bulk material in the correct thickness.

-Lube, spit works, Crisco works, Bore Butter smells better. Still experimenting, try different things.

- Adjustable powder measure w/attached funnel

- Pour spout that fits on a Goex can

- Empty cartridge case to put over can spout while shooting

- Short starter

- Properly fitting screwdrivers for all lock screws

- Vent pick (copper wire, paper clip, etc.)

- Brass hammer for drifting sights.

- Files for adjusting elevation/deepening rear sight notch if needed.

- Nylon range rod w/attachments. Jags, ball puller, patch worm. Yeah, you don't have to have it, but you're in the experimenting phase and eventually you're going to push your luck and get something stuck (like a really tight patch/ball combo or a cleaning patch). You can get medieval with the nylon rod and get the ball seated or pulled where the wood rod might break. Plus it is also a good cleaning rod.

- Ballistol, lube lock, barrel, make moosemilk, possible patch lube, etc.

- Plastic funnel that fits into muzzle for pouring cleaning solution (water/soap).

That should get you shooting at the range.

 

[mmahlock]

A good patch worm is also very useful especially for removing patches put down the barrel loose to clean and dry the breach. Years of experience have lead me to recommend this type of patch worm

over this type

they just hold up better and don't bend.

A breach brush like this

is also of value as well.

One other thing, get all of your tools that screw to your rod (under barrel of range) in the same thread. I prefer 10-32 to 8-32 since it is larger in diameter and more robust in design.

 

[Tom Compton]

FIRST, find some local shooting events to frequent, ask questions, look and listen.

By all means, get a range rod and forget the bullets. I prefer FFg for a main charge and FFFFg to prime. Others have good experience with FFFg for both. Some guns are accurate with either and others will only work well with one or the other.

I suggest getting Dutch Schultz's program - probably the best $20 you can spend and you've already saved that much not buying all of the stuff from Cabela's.
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/


Look at all of the BP shops mentioned above and look for others. Another source for accoutrements is http://www.thegunworks.com/GunIndex.cfm?CFID=1385346&CFTOKEN=12699657


Wear shooting glasses! I have some with marks on the right lense from flint and percussion shrapnel and have pulled pieces of flint from between the eye brows. Never pour from a horn or can into the barrel even with a measuring contraption. Pour into a seperate measure and then into the barrel. If the 50-100 gr ignites it will scare hell out of you and singe some hair and skin. If a can or horn goes off you will be called "Lefty".

Sight Picture, Trigger Control and Follow Through!

TC

 

[msuspartan]

Congrats on the purchase and post a couple of pics when it arrives.

Here is my take. If you can go to Friendship then go and see all the goodies there. As some of the the other fine (or not so fine :rotf: ) folks have said, find yourself a club to shoot with. THAT will give you more to consider AND let you ask questions with intelligent answers. That will serve you the best without wasting money. My club buys powder in bulk so everyone saves and we make our own bullets so again savings.

Hope that helps and be patient, the rifle will be there in time :thumbsup: .

Cheers, Don

 

[Stumpkiller]

Here is an image of ALL I carry to shoot or hunt. No range rod, no CO2 discharger, no flint hammer, pan brush, back scratcher, fly-swatter or smoke shifter. Like Henry J. Thoreau said: "Our life is frittered away by detail. Simplify, simplify." I usually have at least two other knives, but that is true whether gardening or grocery shopping. :wink:

The ball block is a piece of purpleheart. The measure a length of turkey thigh-bone with a maple plug on one end. The little thing that looks like an awl is a flint nibbler to dress a fresh edge on the flint. In my patchbox is a tow worm with tow, a spare cleaning jag and a threaded screw-type ball puller; plus some extra patching material. None of these came from Cabela's.

You need balls and patching material. Spit or an alternative patch lube. Powder in some container. A powder measure for safety and consistancy. A priming flask is a handy luxury. A way to change flints. A few spare flints. A cleaning jag and a threaded ball puller (threaded the same as the rammer tip). A few patches to wipe between shots (or use the same patch material you shoot with).

I do add a few targets and four thumbtacks plus my Sonics (ear protectors) when target shooting. God was thoughtful enough to make sure I couldn't see at all without glasses so I'm covered there.

I have a drawer full of "modern" manure I bought over the years that never gets used and makes good fodder for blanket shoots . . . though much of it ends up coming back home. :redface: Anything "patented" or "improved" is unnecessary to shoot and enjoy muzzleloaders. They had it figured out 250 years ago before plastic and marketing weasels. If you wouldn't carry it on a 40 mile hike-in you should seriously consider leaving it in the store. :wink: