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Rifle Stock Stain

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A/F will bring out figure in wood that you can't usually see before staining. I built an early style rifle and purposely used a grade 1 wood. A/F brought out a good bit of subdued curl that did not show in the blank. Use it on more figured wood and it will really show off. It will also darken over time, so don't get it too dark to begin with.
 
Thanks to all who responded.

So if I'm hearing correctly when I go into Dixon's I should bring a "cash allowance" and lock up the credit cards lest I need to rent a U-Haul in order to get out of the parking lot? :grin:
 
Here's a link I wrote some time back about using lye water on gunstocks:
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/31269/post/31407/fromsearch/1/#31407

As I mentioned, this brings out the contrast between the end grain in the curl and the parallel grain. It won't create stripes so if their not there to begin with, it won't help.

It also does not darken the stock a great deal if the wood is Maple or Beech.
It will turn cherry and walnut almost black, covering up thier grain so I don't recommend it unless a very dark plain look is desired.

With aquafortis or Ferric Nitrate + alcohol, you get what you get.
It is a combination of the solution and the wood that brings out the color and it is impossible to know what your stock will look like until you've applied the solution, let it dry and then heated it. By the way, a hair dryer isn't hot enough to do what is required. A heat gun for removing paint will work.

If the aquafortis type solutions don't give you the color you want you can thin a alcohol based stain with alcohol or water and apply light "washes". If the washes are very light you can repeatedly apply coats to get the color your after.

Just remember: The actual color/darkness will only show while the wood is wet. After it drys it will look much lighter.
The wet look is exactly the same as the oiled look after you've applied the finishing oil.
 
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Zonie, thanks for the link. It was a good read but at least for the moment I think I will avoid solutions that "eat body parts".

Something I may try on some scrap wood when I can work on it outside in the nice weather.

As to your other advice, I think I am going to give the Aquafortis a try (provided some is in stock during my short pit stop in PA) and pick up some cherry stain as well to go over it.

Again, horse around on some scrap wood first to see if I can get anything close to that "violin red" finish without using the traditional concoction (that sounded almost as dangerous as the Lye).

Thanks again.

Graham
 
One of the easier to obtain alchohol based stains of the NGR class is Fiebings Leather Dye. Easily available, controllable and in a three gun bottle. I am mixing red and brown currently. Will report back in a few days. PD
 
This is feiblings dark brn, cut 50% with alcohol. about 10 coats of tung oil. ...Tom

not a big grain raiser either..
 
Reagents cause the wood to change color rather than muddying the grain. Lye solution swabbed onto cherry makes it darken (reacts with the tannic acid)and turn reddish orange rather quickly. The same can be accomplished by exposing cherry to ultraviolet light, but it takes weeks or months....

Alcohol based stains are less apt to muddy grain than oil based stains, and should be absorbed much more readily.

Search "aquafortis" and see if you can't come up with the required ingredients.
 
Tom Knight said:
This is feiblings dark brn, cut 50% with alcohol. about 10 coats of tung oil. ...Tom

not a big grain raiser either..

Dang it Tom, you're showing off that flyweight trekker again! :wink:
 
How long is the barrel on that?

On my side of the border any firearm with a barrel less than 470 millimeters (18 1/2") would be considered a "pistol" and classified as a "restricted" weapon.
 
I have used muriatic acids and alcohol based staines but I like Aqua fortis best for curly woods though others can work well too. Though the prep is just as important..
These are curly maple stained with aqua fortis.



This is curly Ash done the same way.
 
galamb said:
How long is the barrel on that?

On my side of the border any firearm with a barrel less than 470 millimeters (18 1/2") would be considered a "pistol" and classified as a "restricted" weapon.

That 18 1/2 " barrel is only for semi-autos, you are fine as long as the overall length is greater than 26 1/2 inches with manually operated actions. The Steve McQueen wannabees with the lever action mare's legs are nonrestricted, pretty sure you are ok with a single shot flinter.
 
I'm doing my first build an heard about the lye method. Easyoff oven cleaner. I'm still building but wanted to test so sprayed the inside the barrel channel let stand for 5 minutes. Wiped off. rinsed and I don't remember if I put vinger on there after word don't think so. well here is what it looks like on maple.

that is pretty close to what I want BUT....think I will look into alcohol base stains as you can adjust as you apply.
 
I am not sure what "import regs" you are referring to. I have ordered AF from TOTW and have received it thru the mail in NS.
 
Recently?

I, and another guy up my way received a "sorry can't ship from Track (whom I do alot of business with).

And here's a quote from MBS "Yes, we do ship to Canada, with the exception of stains and dyes-(liquids)."

Could maybe UPS it but not willing to pay 40 bucks in brokerage fees for 10 bucks worth of liquid..
 
Tom Knight said:
660 milli-whatzits, I think....Tom

Hmmm, still somewhat shorter than my 91.4 centimeter barreled 12.7 millimeter caliber, that I load with a 12.44 millimeter ball and 4.5 grams of powder.

(had to look all that up myself) :rotf:
 
galamb said:
Hmmm, still somewhat shorter than my 91.4 centimeter barreled 12.7 millimeter caliber, that I load with a 12.44 millimeter ball and 4.5 grams of powder.
(had to look all that up myself) :rotf:
I knew it, I knew it...it's the furlongs per fortnight thing all over again!
 
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