Rolling papers for combustible cartridges?

[Pete453]

This how I do it. Works great. Rip the paper off the ball after seating it in cylinder.

Mine shear off when the ball is pressed in. I'm running 454 balls, maybe that's the difference?

 

[Pete453]

I can't believe I forgot one of the most important parts, the big tweezers! CRS must've kicked in. They make all the difference when putting wads in the paper tubes, and I use them to drop the ball in sprue up. I bought them off amazon, 7 bux. Maybe a good pharmacy might have them locally, I don't know.

 

[JT1200R]

Mine shear off when the ball is pressed in. I'm running 454 balls, maybe that's the difference?

Probably , I’m using .451 balls

 

[ab44]

The replica guns seem to use 451 and the original Rem I use 454 I do not know of others. The Starr is .457

 

[fishmusic]

Nitrating cigarette papers is a royal PITA. I have tried it and will do it again but the papers are fragile and tear easily. I used some with no ill effects and it was an improvement on coffee filters but here is what I have observed so far:

1. nitrated coffee filters with 17 gr of 3fff did not ignite all of the paper.
2. nitrated cigarette papers with 20 gr 3fff ignited almost all of the paper but there was some left in the cylinder.

I haven't tried 20 gr using coffee filters or un-nitrated cigarette paper with 17 gr. My biggest issue has been paper that jams the cylinder. More testing is needed but the closest range is indoors and costs $20.00 per hour (inflation is used to cost &15). I will perservere to find the correct load and paper.

I am shooting a Navy with .36 cal balls. My opinion is that the .44 cal guys have a better chance of burning all of the paper in their cartridges. That is why I will continue with 20 gr loads in my cartridges and seeing what works best for a paper.

 

[ab44]

I have a 44 Rem and use 28 grains. I have the balls and cigarette papers(RAW or a similar thin paper) loaded and ends are twisted and I put a tiny dab of glue from a solid glue stick . Just a touch this keeps the twist firm and solidly closed. In the third pic you can see tubes loaded with black but not twisted yet. After each step I let glue dry. After they are all dry and solid I very quickly dip (in and out fast) the twisted end into my nitrated solution. I let them dry and shoot. I get virtually no residue at all ,none. Also I never use wads any more as the paper bunches up in cylinder when I load and this does the job of a wad. I cut the twist end off at range before loading this allows a small opening and raw powder for ignition. This way has been working for a long time. Good luck it is actually not such a pain . Yes I know it is a conical shown. lolol