Round 58 caliber barrel arrives

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Runner

58 Cal.
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I ordered one of the round smoothbore 58 caliber barrels mentioned in the round barrel thread. It arrived today. It has a lot of surface rust inside and out. Put it this way, it is close to being browned! The breech is 1 inch and has an offset on one side that had a purpose in the original gun it was supposed to be made into I guess. I am still debating on whether or not I need to chuck it up and turn it completely round. Inletting as it is will not be that much more of a hassle. Does anyone make a round flintlock breech plug, or am I going to be better off just threading a plug and drilling a touch hole?
I will post a picture once I get it cleaned up and in a piece of wood. 23$ delivered. Free lock given to me by a forum member. Cheap piece of wood. Very cheap starter/learner project.
 
Runner --

A friend of mine ordered one of the same barrels. I placed the order for him, got a bunch of other stuff for myself (if I like his barrel and the gun I'm going to build for him, using it, I'll get one for myself -- maybe....). I ordered five each of what are described as round bolster breechplugs, and tangs, both items castings that need to be finished (threaded, filed, polished, etc). If the bolsters are flint, or can be modified for flint use, I'll let you know -- they're being sold for a little over a buck each. Good luck on your project.

Mike
 
The rust is a little more than you would expect on a barrel from a parts company. It will definately take some polishing to remove it. The barrel should work fine for a very light small shotgun/smoothbore. I think the barrel is easily heavy enough for light round ball loads.

There is a direct link to the page the barrels are on in the thread farther down this page.
 
Runner, I'd simply use a regular breech plug that is slightly larger then the diamter at the breech- say 1 and 1/8"- get ot in there properly- and file it down to match. I have never seen a breechplug made specifically for a round barrel, but they must make them for Besses, etc.
 
The thread, "Round Smoothbore Barrels" on the second page of this list has a link directly to the three barrels they have.

Rich, Thanks for the input!
 
Numrich Gun Parts. On their home page, click on "Gunsmithing" under "Select A Category", then on "Barrels". You'll scroll down a long list until you find a 26" .58 caliber barrel -- click on this, and it'll take you to a page with the 26" x .58, a 28" x .58, and a 26" x .68.
 
Well, the rust cleans up ok, but what is under it is pretty rough by modern standards.

smoothbore2.jpg


Here is a close up.

smoothbore1.jpg


The metal is a nice color, but if you are looking for smooth, you have a job on your hands.

First impressions are that it is definately going in the lathe to be polished if I decide to polish it!
 
I kind of liked it that way myself with the old look it had. Unfortunately, there were also two places where a movement wheel in the forming equipment had left a knurled looking patch. No way to remove those and leave the rest as it was. I decided to split the difference. I am polishing it by hand to the point where the knurling marks are gone, but I am going to stop at that point. I spent about an hour on it today, and I am pretty close on the main portion of the barrel. The breech portion is not done yet. Anyway, here are pictures of the breech end.

smoothbore4.jpg




smoothbore3.jpg



Wish they were ten inches longer than they are!
 
I am impressed with the thickness at the breech. That will be easy to thread for a plug and still give plenty of wall thickness. I thought it would have a bulge like a cartridge shotgun barrel but the profile looks good. You might want to saw off that step at the bottom of the barrel to avoid the ramrod striking it. Should make a stout smoothbore.
 
Never thought about the ramrod hitting it!

At the transition between breech area and the full round area there was a tool alignment problem where when they moved from one operation to the other, there was a groove formed on one side. I have just about worked that down, but now I am stuck taking the whole barrel to fully smooth.

Good thing I am doing this because I enjoy it!
 
What's the outside diameter at the muzzle? Does the barrel have a straight taper?

Looking at the pictures of the breech end, I'm thinking I'd cut/grind the excess metal flush with the bottom of the barrel, and round it on the lefthand side, but leave it flat on the righthand side -- the easier to mount the lock flush against. Just a thought.
 
I don't have the good calipers in the house. Using the one in here, which is metric, I get 17.8 for most of the length of the barrel. All of the taper is in the first few inches. I would guess from the size mine is after all the polish work that 18mm is about right when you get it.

I am either going to mill that side off down to the level of the rest so it isn't in the ramrods way, or I may make this first one a caplock. If I do, I am going to mill a flat right in the metal and mill the flat to mate with the lock. My present shotgun has the lock and barrel where they mate together at the snail and an inch or so forward. I have one of the exact same locks sitting here. It is tempting to just trace the plate, and mill that flat face to match.

I am less clear on the lugs out on that thin barrel. I am assuming they would be silver soldered, but need some input on that. I am considering putting it in a full stock, even as short as it is. If I go flintlock, I definately will.

I have the barrel polished out pretty much as far as I am going. I am undecided on finishing it or leaving it white.

Anyway, have a good one everybody!
 
Silver solder takes a lot of heat. I'd file shallow dovetails if there was enough metal and use a high strength low temp solder if there was not. I am not so keen on drilling and staking as I think there is too much risk of getting into the bore. I have seen originals with lengthwise narrow slots the the ends of the slots chiseled up, the lung installed, then the ends pounded back down.
 
The good tools are out in the garage Rich, but I am reading 1.2mm as the barrel thickness with the one that is here in the house. I don't think that is enough for any kind of groove mounting. Right now I have to talk to someone about a piece of wood. I need a piece long enough for the 28 inch barrel that is not already inlet, but that does have the ramrod channel drilled. I have nice piece of walnut here that I cut to do a thumbhole stock for an airgun that would work for a shotgun type stock if I go that way, but I want to go full length I think. Talk at ya later. Thanks for the input.
 
Hard to find a stock with the ramrod hole drilled but the barrel not inlet. Most folks inlet the barrel first, calculate the web thickness, and then lay out the RR groove and drill the hole. Might have to tackle ramrod hole drilling- a "hole new adventure!"
 
That is what I found out in a couple of calls today! Looks like I get to follow Mike's instructions! I will go down to the sawmill tomorrow and see what chunk of walnut long enough to make a full stock out of is going to cost me. An 11/16ths round router bit will do most of the inletting pretty close. The barrel is .7 and the 11/16ths bit figures .68. Cutting wood, that should be a very close fit. I ordered a 3/4 x 16 x 5/8ths straight tang breechplug today. I will have to go look at the recycling yard for some brass sheet thinner than the stuff I have here to make things out of. Since it looks like I get to do the whole thing myself, I will need something to use as a model for the stock. I guess I can use the Trapper as a model and just make it full stock. Does a smoothbore need a cheekpiece?

Thanks for all the input.
 

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