Round ball mould makers?

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I'm looking for a list of who currently makes very good (preferably single cavity) roundball moulds. Lyman only produces double cavity moulds in my caliber. Further, I have read about Jeff Tanner moulds from England...they are made from brass without sprue cutters. Any substantive comments on brass as mould material? Again I'm looking for quality, probably preferably steel.

Much appreciate your feedback.
Hubertus
 
Hubertus, I have 2 brass CBE (Jim Allison, NSW, OZ) moulds for my CF rifles and 1 Jeff Tanner [brass] .60cal. (.597") RB mold for my trade gun and quite pleased with how well they cast. When sized or patched to fit the various rifles and smoothie, their droppings are very accurate as well. Both Allison and Tanner make excellent moulds for surprisingly little $$$. However, I don't think CBE catalogs a RB mould. Btw, the lack of a sprue cutter on the Tanner mould is inconvenient, but only mildly so.
 
Btw, the lack of a sprue cutter on the Tanner mould is inconvenient, but only mildly so.

Agree. Cutting off the sprue after the fact is not the big issue some make it out to be. My .731 Dixie mould does not have a cutter. After the cast balls are cool I simply cut the sprue/puddle off with a pair of side cutters and toss into the pot for reuse. Cutting 50, or so, balls takes only a couple minutes. Wash yer hands when ye are done.
 
I have 3 Jeff Tanner molds, and they work fine. I don't miss the sprue cutter, as I use a nail nipper to trim..Hank
 
Any disadvantage to the brass material of the mould in the Jeff Tanners? I'm wondering if they are a bit more difficult to keep at casting temperature. Also, it was mentioned in a past post that the brass moulds (Tanner) require a bit different M.O. for casting...any comments on this would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
"Any disadvantage to the brass material of the mould in the Jeff Tanners? I'm wondering if they are a bit more difficult to keep at casting temperature. Also, it was mentioned in a past post that the brass moulds (Tanner) require a bit different M.O. for casting...any comments on this would be appreciated. Thanks!"

Hubertus, I haven't had a problem getting any of my brass moulds up to operating temperature or maintaining that temperature once it is reached. However, due to the size of the Tanner mould, .600" (.597" in fact), I find I have to lower the casting temperature or cool the mould via a damp sponge else it overheats. In either case, it casts exceptionally well.
 
Isn't brass likely to solder itself together if it gets a little too hot? Sure more heat will pull it apart but the cavity would change in diameter with a coat of lead.
 
Jeff also sells a modified set of side cutters for cutting the sprue. I think they cost 3 pounds. They are side cutters that are ground flush. I have a .510 for my 52 cal. gun, and it casts true, and consistent.

Bill
 
I don't think you could make it happen, without a torch. Have had several Tanner molds and have never experienced anything but good ball.
Mark
 
I've boughten a bunch of molds from Miha, he makes excellent molds, mostly brass and aluminum ... I have mostly brass from him, he makes a few RB molds, but currently only has this in stock http://www.mp-molds.com/shopping/pgm-more_information.php?id=12&=SID, I also have a couple of brass molds from Tom at Accurate Molds http://www.accuratemolds.com/ but I'm not sure if he does RB's

I like and prefer brass over my AL or steel molds ... not as heavy as steel, heats up faster and holds it heat, more durable than aluminum, and they look so nice!
 
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