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Routine when shooting

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Joined
Sep 26, 2023
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Location
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Shot the Hawken again today, 50 yard target, and I was not very good. I think I need to develop a shooting routine the same as I did with my Sharps. I noticed the same effects from wiping differently with the Hawken as I do with the other black powder rifle. I am going to try some powder compression next time out, and I am leaning towards sticking with the Old E 2F over the Goex 3F, but I need more trigger time to make sure. I am going to stick with the swaged balls over my own cast, just to not add any more variables, after I find the load and the routine, I will work with my cast to see if they are as good as the swaged. Still having fun, 65 degrees and just a light breeze today.
 
Be sure to keep all the conditions the same. The duplex load is probably not necessary as either 2Fg Old Eynsford or GOEX 3Fg should be fine on their own. @NMHawken will want to weigh the balls, swaged or cast, to use a similar weight and eliminate balls weighing more than 2 grains from the calculated weight. Use soft lead for the casting.
 
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I burned a lot of black powder before I invested in some literature from guys who have proven repeatedly that they have the knowledge to be successful. My shooting improved immediately. Going to apply the same principles now, and thanks to some very knowledgeable people here, have no doubt that my repeatability will improve.
 
Don't forget to examine your fired patches for holes, cuts, burns or tears; and to try a few lighter and heavier powder charges. And thicker and thinner patches.

Correcting problems with these three aspects will do more to shrink your groups than anything else.
 
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I'm a huge fan of wiping between shots, tending to the lock between shots, and always using a felt wad over the powder. I've never found changing patch lube to be a factor in accuracy. Spit works as well as some of the concoctions people come up with and swear by. The lubricated felt wad, I believe, serves to help keep the patch from damage and to prevent patch lube (spit) away from the powder. I think also it acts as a buffer that allows heavier charges without shredding patches. Other than an extra step, I can't think of a reason NOT to use a wad.
 
I have begun carrying over a lot of my BPCR to my muzzleloader journey. Decades ago when I first started with a muzzleloader, I shot Pyrodex, and bullets not balls. Now I am on a quest to get back to a more traditional path. I see a difference in fouling depending on the lube, a lot of that is driven by humidity that this time of year barely makes 2 digits. I love black powder now, and have been working with it for the lastv5 years in cartridges. I have it in my mind to attempt some competitive shooting before I get too old, or I can't get components.
 
Grenadier said: "
"Be sure to keep all the conditions the same."

Bingo Bro. Consistency is the name of the game. Not everyone elses experience is the best for you. Blaming things like cast or swaged balls against one another is a waste of good thinking time. Choose one and stay with it if it works. Same with patch material and lube. Do assess what others have to say about various powders. I am stubborn when it comes to using real black versus synthetic powders but am a realist and recognizes that black is sometimes hard to find. Just keep shooting.
 
Grenadier said: "
"Be sure to keep all the conditions the same."

Bingo Bro. Consistency is the name of the game. Not everyone elses experience is the best for you. Blaming things like cast or swaged balls against one another is a waste of good thinking time. Choose one and stay with it if it works. Same with patch material and lube. Do assess what others have to say about various powders. I am stubborn when it comes to using real black versus synthetic powders but am a realist and recognizes that black is sometimes hard to find. Just keep shooting.
Real Black Powder I have, I will stick with the swaged balls for now, but eventually I will make my own cast work, I don't like buying anything that I can make, and I have moulds. One thing I am going to try is some compression on the powder, I haven't done so yet, but I know Old Eynsford likes some compression in other guns.
 
I have begun carrying over a lot of my BPCR to my muzzleloader journey. Decades ago when I first started with a muzzleloader, I shot Pyrodex, and bullets not balls. Now I am on a quest to get back to a more traditional path. I see a difference in fouling depending on the lube, a lot of that is driven by humidity that this time of year barely makes 2 digits. I love black powder now, and have been working with it for the lastv5 years in cartridges. I have it in my mind to attempt some competitive shooting before I get too old, or I can't get components.
If black powder ever becomes impossible to get, I will get out of the m/l game. Never used Pyrodex, never will.
 
I'm a huge fan of wiping between shots, tending to the lock between shots, and always using a felt wad over the powder. I've never found changing patch lube to be a factor in accuracy. Spit works as well as some of the concoctions people come up with and swear by. The lubricated felt wad, I believe, serves to help keep the patch from damage and to prevent patch lube (spit) away from the powder. I think also it acts as a buffer that allows heavier charges without shredding patches. Other than an extra step, I can't think of a reason NOT to use a wad.
Everybody has their own experiences. My beeswax/olive oil wads worked so well in my revolvers I thought I'd try them in the .50 cal. Hawken. Terrible! Accuracy suffered and the bore was filthy. Stuck jags and unable to load even a third shot without wiping. I have found patch lube does make a difference in accuracy and keeping the barrel clean. As for the lock and trigger I'll clean it once or twice a year on general principles but it stays pretty clean. I keep it pretty well sealed off from the cap powder fouling.
 
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