Ruger Old Army nipple removal

[eggwelder]

just picked up an old army, can get all but 1 nipple out. can the cylinders be heated to assist this without damaging or comprimising the steel? wont be red hot but hot enough that you won`t really want to touch it.
going to soak it in eds read first, and as the hex head is worn, will use a dab of valve grinding compound to assist preventing cam out over whats left of the hex head. works great on most other worn bolt heads and screw sockets.
i`ve used this method in the past on original barrels with stuck nipples to no ill effect, and the cylinder should`nt really be heat treated but am not sure. it is a post BP warning model, blue with adjustable sights

 

[rsako]

Get a 3/16 Nut Driver bit. Sharpen the face of it so it no longer has a radius edge where the nipple goes in. It will work like a charm. A few seconds with a steady hand on a belt sander...or a file will sharpen the face.

 

[sheriff john]

KROIL.

 

[eggwelder]

Get a 3/16 Nut Driver bit. Sharpen the face of it so it no longer has a radius edge where the nipple goes in. It will work like a charm. A few seconds with a steady hand on a belt sander...or a file will sharpen the face.

this idea sounds good, never heard of doing that before

 

[Badgerfarm]

Heat won't hurt the cylinder as long as it doesn't turn colors. The Ed's Red will help too plus a good tight fitting wrench with the valve compound and it will come out. If you have any sheet lead wrap it around the cylinder and clamp it in a vice to give you some mechanical advantage. I keep a strip of lead just for that purpose.

 

[Robert an saa fan]

Good suggestions above.

I like to use a 50 50 mix of acetone and red colored ATF (Automatic transmission fluid). After the mix has time to soak in I use a metal drift to tap repeatedly on the nipple inside the cylinder and on the top side. Has worked well on some rusty Colt style cylinders over the years.

 

[SmokepoleSam]

Badgerfarm, just put 2 dowels in opposing chambers and clamp the dowels in a vise, I read this on the forum then the cylinder can't move or get damaged.

 

[FishDFly]

The above is the very best way to hold the cylinder.

 

[hrt4me]

Does anyone use a cylinder block?
I have them for ROA, Colt 1851/1860 and Remington NMA cylinders

 

[Grenadier1758]

I use the two dowel method.

 

[MSW]

two dowels ... gotta remember that trick - thanks!

 

[Philip Lebow]

When I worked for the big gun shop, I would heat the cylinder, and then drop in the acetone/ATF mixture for several days running, What I called "the long soak". Then the
nipples would release after being turned with a good wrench.

 

[hrt4me]

When I worked for the big gun shop, I would heat the cylinder, and then drop in the acetone/ATF mixture for several days running, What I called "the long soak". Then the nipples would release after being turned with a good wrench.

what constituted a 'good wrench', in your opinion?

 

[flntlokr]

Get a 3/16 Nut Driver bit. Sharpen the face of it so it no longer has a radius edge where the nipple goes in. It will work like a charm. A few seconds with a steady hand on a belt sander...or a file will sharpen the face.

Exactly what I used when I had an OA. I removed the nipples every time I cleaned the gun, and put a small dab of nevr-seize on the threads after cleaning them. Never had a sticky problem after that. Given time, the crud turns to rock, and needs to be softened somewhat before you willbe able to move anything. I would go with hot water and detergent for a prolonged time before I used any oily products. My ruger found its way into the dishwasher once a year or so to get everything cleaned right up.

 

[11Bravo]

All good suggestions and I'll add one more. First have everything ready as you want to follow through relatively fast. Put the cylinder in the toaster oven to soak at 400*F. When it is well up to temperature take it out and wrap it in leather to hold the heat. put it on your pre-placed dowels and hit the nipple with canned air turned upside down. Be careful, gloves and glasses are a must as what the nipple gets is refrigerant and it's cold. The cylinder has expanded and the cold contracts the nipple. Got an original one out two weeks ago that way, but the it wasn't rounded off much. There is a last resort instead of reaching for a drill if it is still in there, that is something not everyone can do as it involves Tig welding.

 

[hrt4me]

here is my ROA cylinder block which I clamp in my bench vise

 

[Woody Morgan]

I'll take one!

You know...supporting our local artisans and all.

wm

 

[ZUG]

here is my ROA cylinder block which I clamp in my bench vise
View attachment 87290
View attachment 87291
View attachment 87292
View attachment 87293
View attachment 87294

Nicely done -- sure beats two wooden dowels for sure!!!!!!

 

[hrt4me]

Nicely done -- sure beats two wooden dowels for sure!!!!!!

I certainly did not make these, I ordered them (ROA, 1858 and 1851/1860 versions) from Bruce Waugh in Arizona

 

[11Bravo]

I have two questions hrt4me if you don't mind. The through hole on the block is used for? Cleaning, loading? The other question is, does Bruce have a website or a contact number? Thank you
Wayne