Recently found a scope mount for a ROA I've had for st least 25 years and never used. Took off Pachmyers and stuck the original walnut grips back on. She's happy again. Scoping her wasn't really my thing but maybe someone else has done so?
If you’ve ever wondered, “just how accurate is this gun?” The scope will help you answer…Recently found a scope mount for a ROA I've had for st least 25 years and never used. Took off Pachmyers and stuck the original walnut grips back on. She's happy again. Scoping her wasn't really my thing but maybe someone else has done so?
Picture of it please ?Recently found a scope mount for a ROA I've had for st least 25 years and never used. Took off Pachmyers and stuck the original walnut grips back on. She's happy again. Scoping her wasn't really my thing but maybe someone else has done so?
@45D he really nailed the Bisley trigger didn’t he? That’s a beauty!
We're camping for a few days. Not at home to do photos.Picture of it please ?
I would be interested in what it takes to adjust the Bolt on the Ruger.
My first one has a tiny bit of drag off and on but mostly off.
The one coming has clear drag marks on the cylinder and I would like to know what adjustment or mod is made to move the bolt a bit sooner.
Thank you, now will have to see about implementing.
those are some nice looking grips. congrats to you.My ROA purchased on GB came with these laminated grips made by Texas Grips, https://texasgrips.com/extended-grips-info/. They're a half inch longer than the factory grips and are very comfortable.
I don't believe I have ever seen a revolver, c&b or modern that did not have a drag mark on the cylinder. I thought that was normal, albeit ugly.Drag marks on Ruger Old Army cylinders are mostly because of a weak hand spring design
That's the reason for dressing/polishing the bolt dome and its lead in corner so only a rub line and not a gall is present. Also it aids the bolt drop into the cylinder notches along with braking the cylinder inertia. Early bolt drop before the lead in cut into the cylinder notch actually has a benefit of braking cylinder inertia so both the window and notch walls receive less impact at lock up.I don't believe I have ever seen a revolver, c&b or modern that did not have a drag mark on the cylinder. I thought that was normal, albeit ugly.
They all do after getting some miles on their chassis from hard use.I don't believe I have ever seen a revolver, c&b or modern that did not have a drag mark on the cylinder. I thought that was normal, albeit ugly.
I should more accurately said unless modified by timing and with heavier bolt spring etc.They all do after getting some miles on their chassis from hard use.
I don't believe I have ever seen a revolver, c&b or modern that did not have a drag mark on the cylinder. I thought that was normal, albeit ugly.
That's the reason for dressing/polishing the bolt dome and its lead in corner so only a rub line and not a gall is present. Also it aids the bolt drop into the cylinder notches along with braking the cylinder inertia. Early bolt drop before the lead in cut into the cylinder notch actually has a benefit of braking cylinder inertia so both the window and notch walls receive less impact at lock up.
If your going to increase the bolt spring tension bolt dome dressing becomes even more important to galling resistance. Dressing a bolt dome can easily be over done and all that needs dressing is the lead in corner and dome that contacts the cylinder.
Remember the cylinder speed is always increased as the hand switches from out side contact on the ratchet tooth at the beginning of the stroke and as it rises against the rotation contact is passed to the inside of the hand width. The closer the contact to the inside of the ratchet tooth axis the faster the cylinder turns and inertia energy increases. This is also the reason hand spring pressure has no braking action on cylinder inertia what so ever. As long as the hand is pushing on the ratchet tooth in the cocking stroke both rotation speed and inertia energy are increasing and it doesn't matter how much spring pressure it is applying.
Well, Physics don't care who says it just can't be that way............ it's true any how !What M DeLand refuses to understand is that "his" way of thinking isn't necessarily THE way it all works.
If he was right, my upgrade for the ROA wouldn't work . . . but it does, even with the 4 lb bolt spring . . . no need for a truck spring on the bolt to slow down the cyl. ( Just like it was taught to me by Jim Martin and like it is described in the Jerry Kuhnhausen book). The Colt designers actually knew what they were doing and when you follow their setup procedures, it works.
Mike
Also, I checked hand spring tension at both the bottom and top of the stroke in a couple of my revolvers and if there is any increase in tension I couldn't tell it by feel.Well, Physics don't care who says it just can't be that way............ it's true any how !
Well, Physics don't care who says it just can't be that way............ it's true any how !
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