• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Ruger's old army revolver's

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

oldarmy

50 Cal.
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
1,468
Reaction score
54
I just picked up a very nice used blued 7-1/2" Ruger old army with adjustable sights and I think they are heads and shoulders above any Itailian revolvers. It's a big solid piece of american made metal. Accurate and hard hitting. I have been using hand casted conical hollow points over 25 to 30 grains of Pryrodx PPP with crisco covering the bullet and get one raged hole at 25 yards.
Unfortantly it is about 4 inches too high and the rear sight can't go any lower. Should I file the front sight down some?
 
If you file the front sight, the groups will go higher still. You need to raise the front sight to lower the group. Maybe a gunsmith could install a higher front blade for you. Also, "lightweights shoot lower". Try roundballs in the Ruger and see what happens.

Luck!

Gene
 
Unfortantly it is about 4 inches too high and the rear sight can't go any lower. Should I file the front sight down some?

I am so glad you asked before going ahead... and please don't think I'm trying to make you feel bad for not knowing how these sight changes work.

But for goodness sakes... Please DON'T!!! Filing down the front sight would make the point of impact go HIGHER. You would need a HIGHER front sight to make the impact point go LOWER. Hope you didn't do anything to it yet...

Always remember the following rules...

The rear sight goes in the same direction as where you want the bullet's point of impact (or POI) to go.

Moving the rear sight LEFT, shifts the POI to the LEFT.
Moving rear sight RIGHT, shifts POI to the RIGHT.
Moving rear sight LOWER, shifts POI LOWER.
And moving the rear sight HIGHER, shifts POI HIGHER

For the front sight: You adjust in the opposite direction from where you want the bulet's point of impact to go.

Moving the front sight LEFT, shifts the POI to the RIGHT.
Moving front sight RIGHT, shifts the POI to the LEFT.
Moving front sight LOWER, shifts the POI HIGHER.
And moving the front sight HIGHER, shifts the POI LOWER.

IF you make a drastic change to either front or rear sight and notice that the impact point does NOT shift appropriately and in the proper direction... there could be another problem altogether.

Keep us informed of what you find out.

Shoot Safely!
WV_Hillbilly

PS The Ruger is a very well made gun. If you are wanting basically an "indestructable" cap-n-ball revolver, the Ruger Old Army is the gun to have.
 
call ruger explain the problem theyll tell you to send them the gun and put on a new front sight, theyre customer service is tops, i just dont like thier products to begin with, but if you call dont mf them or anyhting be polite and they will fix the problem
 
Everyone I know has had to change the front sight on the Old Army. Call ruger at 1-203-259-7843 years ago I spoke to Wendy. They wanted to charge me but after stating that I was shooting suggested target loads ( 25 gr 3f .457 roundball) and that I had purchased the " best american made blackpowder revolver " , the sight was provided at no charge. The sight that is held in by a pin, the new blade did not come drilled. Had to take to a gunsmith to have installed.
 
Mine is a pre 1980 made version. It shoots to point of aim at 25yards (if i do my part)with one 45 auto case full of 3f and about 2/3 of a 45 auto case of corn meal. round ball. This seats the ball just below the cylinder front edge. Greased with crisco.

I am going to try the felt & lube combination posted here and do away with the cornmeal. I've been very resistant to changing anything because it has worked for me for so long, but i feel that the greased felt should work as good or better. plus the greasing with crisco makes it a range load only. crisco doesn't hold up well in 100 degree weather...

Point is roundball & appropriate powder charge might shoot to point of aim without changing your front sight. round is cheaper than bullet, unless you are casting. This is moot of course if you have a special need for the bullets....

i like my old army. first bp weapon i owned. NOT for sale or trade.

enjoy & good shooting

rayb
 
It might not be a bad idea to reduce the powder charge some..I was shooting 30 gr of 3f goex and got pretty poor results. I've reduced it to 20 gr, and have added a dose of cream of wheat, and seal with water pump grease...as every one here says, you've got a great revolver..Hank
 
After I wrote that note. I did the one thing I hate to do and actualy read the directions :eek:
I am going to cut the powder load a little and try it again.
It seems like alot of effort to have to use both powder and a filler,but what the heck. I might try the wads also
It's still a better gun then the Italians, however I under stand that colt had Uberti make lots of their parts when the re-introduced theirs in the 80's and 90's.
Any body shoot one of them??? a colt I mean
 
Old Army, I took one of my wife's tea spoons, and squeezed it with a pair of pliers so it formed a sort of spout, and it makes the use of the filler a lot easier..Hank
 
:cry: :cry:

I saved up my money and bought a stainless steel Old Army back in 1977 when I 16 lol. Think I payed 160.00?? not sure now as memory is clouded. :cry: Wish I had that gun now but like a fool I sold it just 2 years later to help pay Senior prom expenses, gah what the hell was I thinking?? :cry:
 
I have an extra powder despenser so I should be ok.
Can I use grits instead of cream of wheat or corn meal? I have a few extra boxes, I love the stuff,but the wife hates it, must be the yankee in her
so I don't get to eat it very often, and may as well use it up if I can
 
Always, "more than one way to skin a cat".
Had the same prob many years ago with my .44.
I took a piece of brass, with a dremmal, files, and fine emery, I made a piece to actually fit OVER the existing sight. Made it extra long and high, top end thin.
When I "whittled" it into the shape I wanted I simply epoxied it covering the existing sight with 5 minute epoxie.
This is nice stuff, at 300 deg. it breaks down and can be remove, and sintered off leaving no marks and no signs of wear. Was a trick I picked up in diemaking. ::
 
My Ruger old army is old has little blueing left on it, there is pitting in some of the chambers and on the face of the cylinder. It is buy far the worst condition gun I own, It came to me in this condition. (I do try at least to take care of my guns.) It is also the best shooting revolver I own, BP or other wise.

As to shooting low, just as lighter bullets shooting lower shooting pistol bullets faster also lowers there impact compared to the sights. So reducing the power charge might not give you the desired results. Right off the top of my head I cant remember what the cylinder will handle with a round ball, but I know it is more than 30gr.

A load I recommendation for any one who cares or wants to try hunting or just a heaver load is to get the LEE conical bullet mold. It casts a 230gr bullet, mine are out of scrap wheel weight. Work up the powder charge for what ever you want or what will stay in the adjustment or your sights. Mine is a heavy load I belive I am getting 800-850fps with a 230gr bullet, which is the same as a 45acp 1911 will give you. And most people belive that to be a potent handgun load.

I enjoy my old army, it is also the only cap gun I own.

Hairsmith
 
Back
Top