Rust bluing options ?

[kyron4]

Plan to rust blue the barrel on my current Hawken build. I have browned barrels with the Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution with good results. As I read it, to rust blue simply boil the freshly browned barrel in distilled water after the final carding, or is there more to it ? Are there other/better options for rust bluing ? -Thanks

 

[Trapper Scott]

Plan to rust blue the barrel on my current Hawken build. I have browned barrels with the Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution with good results. As I read it, to rust blue simply boil the freshly browned barrel in distilled water after the final carding, or is there more to it ? Are there other/better options for rust bluing ? -Thanks

If I remember correctly, I had to add some baking soda to the final boil to stop the rusting reaction. It's been an awhile, but I think that's right.

 

[sdilts]

Yep, with LMF you brown and boil. The only downside is this is a several days long process. Lately, I've been using Mark Lee's Express Blue. You heat the barrel and swab on the solution then boil and card it. Repeat until you get the color you want. You can have it done in a day.

 

[fleener]

I boil between every application. I also take the metal down to 400 grit. It takes the acid longer to etch the metal, but IMO the end product is a very smooth and great looking black finish.

I also use a carding wheel from Brownells that I have fitted to a cordless drill and it makes the job much easier and keeps me from over agressivly use steel wool.

After the final boil I make a very thick paste with baking soda and simply rub it in everywhere and very aggressively to kill the acid.

Fleener

 

[fleener]

For a boiling tank I use a down spout that I cut the top off. Attach two 90 degree elbows and caulk on both ends. Easy and cheap.

Fleener

 

[rchas]

Follow LMF's instructions to the letter. I use a cold rolled steel tank and propane burner to boil my barrels--if you go this route you MUST use distilled water. Other folks have steamed barrels and gotten good results-check Youtube for this process. I only a use a baking soda or ammonia bath if I am browning the barrel. For me, when bluing, after the last boil the hot barrel goes directly into a motor oil bath for 2-3 days. The oil really seems to soak into the oxide layer, and I like the results.

 

[waksupi]

If you want a bright blue, don't let the oxidation go past a light haze. If you let it actually develop rust, you will end up with a rougher surface.
I use a coupe sections of stove pipe sat up vertically in a pot of water on a propane burner, rather than messing with boil tanks. I put a piece of wood over the top end, a wire hook or hooks to hang barrel and furniture. Screws can just be dropped in the boiling pot.
When the steam process has run it's time, use welder gloves to take the barrel and suspended parts out immediately. If you leave them in the pipe to cool they get heavy condensation, that can cause spotting in the bluing job.
The steam method like this needs 20 minutes of continuous steam to finish the chemical conversion. If boiling, like your screws are, these need to go 25 minutes. Remember, steam is hotter than boiling water.

 

[ZUG]

I use Mark Lee's Express Blue. I use regular tap water which here is on the "hard" side. here is a barrel that has 4 applications of the Mark Lee's stuff applied. The final process is carding then buffing with a course canvas material then I waxed the barrel with Johnson's paste wax multiple times over a few days.

 

[TDM]

Can’t add anything else to the above. As @rchas said the instructions are well written. I’ve only used Laurel Mountain for browning, I remembered you had add heat for the rust blue, forgot that you had to boil it. But definitely scrub it with a saturated baking soda solution at the end.

 

[Trapper Scott]

Can’t add anything else to the above. As @rchas said the instructions are well written. I’ve only used Laurel Mountain for browning, I remembered you had add heat for the rust blue, forgot that you had to boil it. But definitely scrub it with a saturated baking soda solution at the end.

I learned this the hard way years ago.

 

[TDM]

I learned this the hard way years ago.

Yes, I’ve been to that same school myself a couple of times or more.

 

[waksupi]

Can’t add anything else to the above. As @rchas said the instructions are well written. I’ve only used Laurel Mountain for browning, I remembered you had add heat for the rust blue, forgot that you had to boil it. But definitely scrub it with a saturated baking soda solution at the end.

If you have boiled or steamed it as long as necessary, the chemical process is finished, and only needs oil.

 

[TDM]

Good to know, I’ve just used it for browning with great results. Gotta neutralize that.

 

[waksupi]

Good to know, I’ve just used it for browning with great results. Gotta neutralize that.

Yes, browning definitely needs it, and sometimes it's hard to stop. Rust never sleeps.

 

[TDM]

Your right about that.

Reminds me of an old Neil Young song.

 

[Mulemauler]

I've found that the Laurel Mtn. browning solution produces a blacker finish when boiled (actually I like it.) For a bluer finish go with Mark Lee's solution. For a dull matte finish you can bead blast and then finish. Neither product is a covering finish so if you want bright shiny finish the metal must be bright and shiny. The shinier the metal the longer it will take for the chemicals to start the reaction. Polishing to 320 is pretty close to a factory type finish. 600 is beautiful but takes a lot of patience.

 

[rickpa]

LMF used to blue, or blacken, as the case may be.

 

[Crooked Creek]

LMF used to blue, or blacken, as the case may be.

I like the way that looks