Rust Bluing

[Gvilleddie]

I’m in the process of bluing a barrel with the Laurel Mountain browning solution. After scalding, do I card while wet or let it dry first? I carded while wet on two coats and if I rub briskly it takes most of the blue off. Thx for any suggestions.

 

[Larry Akers]

You can card wet or dry. Less dust flying around if you card wet. The blue is supposed to come off . Most after-rust problems are caused by not carding well enough. A molecule of rust is physically larger than the steel molecule and won't fit in the same space which causes pits. Undiluted LMF creates large rust molecules ( and large pits) and if they aren't removed by carding, residual solution is trapped under the rust molecule which continues to react and cause after rust. There will be a layer of oxide bonded to the base metal at the atomic level that you cannot remove without removing base metal. I use a wire wheel (.005 dia. wires) in my drill press to card ALL the rust off. Rubbing with a piece of cloth won't get it done. It can be done with steel wool but takes barrels of elbow grease. I suggest you dilute the LMF with distilled water ( 2-5 parts water to 1 part LMF) to weaken the solution which will create smaller rust flakes and pits resulting in a finer finish.

 

[waksupi]

Most people let the solution work too long, if you want a high finish. I let just the slightest haze of oxidation to appear before I steam the barrel. If you see actual rust on the barrel, you are going to have a rougher finish. I usually go through the process around a half dozen times. When you think it is looking good, do two more cycles. I use the wire wheel after I steam the barrel and parts.