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Rust Prevention in the Rain

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Palustris

32 Cal.
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Howdy, everyone!

A hypothetical situation for the consideration of all y'all flintlock aces, and we most humbly beseech your generous guidance and reasoned opinions!

It’s a hot and humid September day in the Great Sovereign Confederate State of Georgia. On this day the Coastal Plain is draped in a heavy overcast; any breeze has been attenuated by limitless stands of sweetgum, cypress, and tupelo; and the occasional downpour has turned your riverbottom foray into a perpetual state of rain. Despite the adage that gentlemen don’t hunt with flintlocks in rainy weather, well, here you are. And good for you ”“ you’ve just shot a very nice buck ”“ at least, you’ve just hit a very nice buck ”“ and now, in the small shelter of a quickly-rigged tarp, you’re waiting out the 30 minutes it should take for him to compose himself privately and die.

Now, what do you do next? More specifically, what do you do immediately to keep your front-stuffer from rusting up while you wait?

Hmm, 30 whole minutes, after which you may still require a second shot. My guess is that you immediately swab out your barrel with a black powder solvent, follow that up with a dry patch or two, use a little more solvent to remove the crud in your pan, wipe the pan dry, then wipe the pan metal with a small rag impregnated with rust preventative, apply a vent pick, then another dry patch jagged down the bore. At last, you measure and pour your powder charge, follow that up with a PRB, then prime your pan and close your frizzen, and wait out the last 10 of that 30 minutes.

Now, four questions.

(1) If all this makes NO sense to you, OK, but under such circumstances, how would you care for your rifle?

On the other hand, if these actions seem reasonable, here are three additional questions:

(2) Which powder solvent do you think works best to remove fouling and neutralize the salts created by burned black powder?

(3) Have you used any solvents that do not work well?

(4) Consider the now-loaded bore: most or all powder residue has been removed or neutralized, the bore and vent have been cleared and dried, and a patched round ball has been seated atop its powder charge. From the ball to the muzzle, is sufficient lubrication now present in the rifling to protect the bore from rusting, at least until your next shot?

That’s all, Foax! The World awaits your wisdom, and submits its most profound appreciation and gratitude, in advance!
 
Good Question.
I would not wait to reload, swabbing the barrel is not nesseary unless water gets in it. I reload the bore, wipe the pan out thourghly and reprime.
Then keep the lock covered.
If i had to clean right away i use windsheild wiper fluid on a patch this takes the grime right out. The alcohal in the fluid drys right away.
The place i hunt can be very wet in the fall, but there is also bigger animals that might want your game you just shot ( Bears). It would all depend on just how wet it was.
 
Walt, I carry a few "field cleaning kits" with me when out hunting...they contain all the items necessary, particularly the cleaning patches as they are wet with Hoppes No9 BP 'PLUS' Solvent & Patch Lube.
I always take my time and completely clean/dry/lube/reload my Flinter after a shot...then I keep the muzzle down and the lock up under my coat/under my arm to keep it dry.
FIELD CLEANING KITS...
4 cleaning patches wet with Hoppes No9 BP 'Plus'
4 Dry patches
1 Lubing patch
Q-Tip
Pipe Cleaner
Alcohol swab
Muzzle mitt
Trash goes back in the bag and pack it out
FieldCleaningKits1000pix.jpg
 
I wouldn't worry about the bore. Unless rain gets into it it should be able to stand 1/2 hour (or more) without any real rust developing.

Pouring in a new load of powder and ramming the patched ball will seal off most of the powder from the air although it might be a good idea to plug the vent with something to keep the powder dry.

What I would worry about is the pan.
The fouling in it can absorb a lot of water from the humidity in the air and this moisture can kill the new prime in a short time.
For this reason, I would wipe the pan as clean as possible and dry it. I then would not reprime until I was ready to start my quest for the deer.

In any case, I would cover the entire lock area with something like a cows knee or a dry rag to keep the rain away from it.
 
You worry to much. That bore will be fine over night if not for a day or two in my experience.
 
Only you can possibly judge the actual weather conditions where your gun is. Its your gun. Rust takes time, and you are not going to have a problem over short periods of time.

However, if you are worried, and you are anywhere near salt water, or moist air laden with salt, you can run a greased cleaning patch down the bore after loading it, to coat the bore with grease. That will keep moisture and salt air from contacting the bore and causing any corrosion.

In a shotgun or smoothbore, It also allows the shot, or shotcup, whatever it might be made from, to slide over the bore, rather than leaving lead or plastic or other debris scraped along the bore.

If you are shooting a PRB in a smoothie, or your rifled barrel, the grease will be pushed ahead of the patch, and if the patch needs more grease, it will absorb some of the grease on the way out the barrel.

There will be enough grease left behind to soften the powder residue, and make cleaning the barrel very easy for the next shot.
 
Thanx and a tip of the tricorn to flintlock75, roundball, Zonie, & Paul V. In this election season, it’s mighty refreshing to receive gilt-edged, hand-tooled, good-sense advice, especially when it’s “right in the 10 ring” (and with photos, even)! :thumbsup:

Good luck and good hunting!

Walt
 
If I already shot the deer and was just waiting to pull it out I would not worry about the rifle at all unless for some strange reason I was out in the woods with an unfinished arm.

I would just wait till I got back to camp and dry it and myself off. Oil the rifle and give myself a couple beers.
 
If the deer was dead, I agree there is little reason to reload but if a good shot is made and the deer takes off most muzzleloading hunters have learned that just sitting down for 10-20 minutes before following the deer is the best plan.

Deer usually don't run far after being shot unless the hunter tries to pursue them right away.

They often know something is wrong and spring off into the woods but if nothing makes a sound they will lay down "until I get to feeling better." :grin: That is where they will be found.

The possibility that they are not dead is good reason to have the gun reloaded and ready for action before pursuit is made.
 
Here in darntootin serious bear country, there's every reason to reload right away even if the deer drops dead in plain sight.

Need I add the details? :confused:
 
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