Rusty Barrel
- Thread starter Horace
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Go to the grocery store & buy some of the green Scotchbright sour pads, cut small patch size squares, use a jag 1 or 2 calibers smaller than the bore size, take some WD 40 or penetrating oil & wet the bore & pad good & scrub the H out of it in long strokes all the way down & bacdk about 100 times, then check it out.
If this will not do it try 0000 steel wool & penetrating oil.
IMHO if that won't clean it up, you need a barrel. If it is pitted bad don't waste your time trying to get the pits out, because you won't.
:results:
If this will not do it try 0000 steel wool & penetrating oil.
IMHO if that won't clean it up, you need a barrel. If it is pitted bad don't waste your time trying to get the pits out, because you won't.
:results:
If it's badly rusted, you might want to try some Navel Jelly on your Scotch pads.
I'd advise wearing some rubber gloves like your wife uses for washing the dishes, or, like the latex gloves at the drug store. These latex ones are lots of fun too. When the casher rings them up you can say things like "Their nice for shoving Navel Jelly up my rusty bore." :: :: :crackup:
I'd advise wearing some rubber gloves like your wife uses for washing the dishes, or, like the latex gloves at the drug store. These latex ones are lots of fun too. When the casher rings them up you can say things like "Their nice for shoving Navel Jelly up my rusty bore." :: :: :crackup:
To complete your street theater, make sure there's a bag of ping pong balls in the shopping basket as well. :winking:
Mollassas mixed one to four with water, is supposedly a good mixture for removing rust. However, you have to leave the object soak for about a week.
WV_Hillbilly
45 Cal.
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Put some mild abrasive rubbing compound on your patches. Make sure that the patch and ball combination is about as tight as you can possibly stand to ram down the barrel.
You may need shoot a bunch of these, and it might take a while. You have to wipe the bore out good between shots with a good black powder solvent so that the fouling doesn't interfere with the "lapping process".
It may polish the bore to a point where it has acceptable accuracy for you, OR it may do virtually nothing, OR it may enlarge the bore so that you need to shoot a slightly larger than normal ball, OR it may be so badly pitted that nothing can save it. There are no guarantees of what it will end up like.
BUT, since the barrel is already bad, you aren't really going to hurt it, are you?
What make/model of gun and caliber is the gun? You may be able to buy a replacement "drop in" barrel for it. OR you could bore it out to a smoothbore, OR reline it to a smaller caliber... lots of options... so don't despair... YET!
Good Luck!
WV_Hillbilly
You may need shoot a bunch of these, and it might take a while. You have to wipe the bore out good between shots with a good black powder solvent so that the fouling doesn't interfere with the "lapping process".
It may polish the bore to a point where it has acceptable accuracy for you, OR it may do virtually nothing, OR it may enlarge the bore so that you need to shoot a slightly larger than normal ball, OR it may be so badly pitted that nothing can save it. There are no guarantees of what it will end up like.
BUT, since the barrel is already bad, you aren't really going to hurt it, are you?
What make/model of gun and caliber is the gun? You may be able to buy a replacement "drop in" barrel for it. OR you could bore it out to a smoothbore, OR reline it to a smaller caliber... lots of options... so don't despair... YET!
Good Luck!
WV_Hillbilly
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A friend of mine collects old military bolt rifles starting from the 1890's. Some of these guns he describes as having "sewer pipes" for barrels and it is very surprizing how well they shoot after you take the "fur" off of the rifling. Many of these guns were made for black powder and are 110+ years old and still shoot fine even though you can't find a single brite spot on the bore. This is not the case with all of them some of them really have "sewer pipes" for bores and are wall hangers at best.
Some people I talk to recomend valve grinding paste but last I checked none of my engines have rifled valve seats. I have also read but have not needed a product called JB Bore something or another would help. Most people using that were lapping there bores out of pure thirst I think.
Oh well grab a something to quench your thirst start lapping scrubbing cleaning grinding and tomorrow head for the range.
PS if you are in line at the drug store with Zonie at this point I would say get behind him not in front of him. I always err on the side of safety. :crackup:
Some people I talk to recomend valve grinding paste but last I checked none of my engines have rifled valve seats. I have also read but have not needed a product called JB Bore something or another would help. Most people using that were lapping there bores out of pure thirst I think.
Oh well grab a something to quench your thirst start lapping scrubbing cleaning grinding and tomorrow head for the range.
PS if you are in line at the drug store with Zonie at this point I would say get behind him not in front of him. I always err on the side of safety. :crackup:
I haven't tried this method when I had my gunsmithing business but it looks great. I will definitely try it out on some of my own tools and it can also be used on the inside of the barrel, ie. in the bore. Check this out http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php
Molases does work really well. The formula is 1 part of molasses and 1 part water. dont thin it more than 1 part molasses and 2 parts water. When I had my gun shop, a bloke from some chemical company came to see me and sold me a fantastic brew that chewed out rust on all steels but didn't touch the non-rusted metal at all. I cant remember the name of the stuff and some stinking scumbag stole it from my shop when I was in the States for 7 years. (I could still alter his face and arms and legs if I found him; my 17 Ackley Hornet went too! :curse
. The actual product was made from seaweed, kelp I think it was. An overnight soak was more than enough. It certainly is worth tracking down once more.
If glass beading is used to remove rust on the surface of an object the beading needs to be performed evenly all around the object and evenly along the full length. This must be done on the non rusted surfaces that are opposite the rusted surface to control bending. You would be amazed :: how much a bar of steel can be bent just by glass beading on one face, even lightly. A barrel can be bent or straightened by glass beading it. Be very careful if you use this technique to remove rust or to produce a matt surface.
Joe / Wedgetail
Molases does work really well. The formula is 1 part of molasses and 1 part water. dont thin it more than 1 part molasses and 2 parts water. When I had my gun shop, a bloke from some chemical company came to see me and sold me a fantastic brew that chewed out rust on all steels but didn't touch the non-rusted metal at all. I cant remember the name of the stuff and some stinking scumbag stole it from my shop when I was in the States for 7 years. (I could still alter his face and arms and legs if I found him; my 17 Ackley Hornet went too! :curse
. The actual product was made from seaweed, kelp I think it was. An overnight soak was more than enough. It certainly is worth tracking down once more.If glass beading is used to remove rust on the surface of an object the beading needs to be performed evenly all around the object and evenly along the full length. This must be done on the non rusted surfaces that are opposite the rusted surface to control bending. You would be amazed :: how much a bar of steel can be bent just by glass beading on one face, even lightly. A barrel can be bent or straightened by glass beading it. Be very careful if you use this technique to remove rust or to produce a matt surface.
Joe / Wedgetail
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