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Safe(r) Use of Matchlocks

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Petardo

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I just got back from an East Coast trip and was thoroughly empassioned with the desire to purchase and own a Matchlock. I mean it was just a matter of time anyway, but now I am closer, though not quite ready to pull the trigger. I've been shopping around and there seem to be some sensible choices out there, but one thing has me a little intimidated.

The thought of lit match sitting there are you prime the firing mechanism is scary. Obviously one would want to have the minimum amount of powder there, in a container that would not instantly burn and scorch your hand, like a paper cartridge like the flintlocks and percussion, but not a very hard one, especially metal of brass. The re-enactors at Jamestown were using wood "cartridges" to hold the powder which seem like a good idea, large enough to not contain the blast and let it vent out, soft enough not to create a bomb. Unfortunately I cannot find any such wooden "Matchlock cartridges" or "Matchlock priming/powder containers". I've also heard of using leather as well but the examples online of such are quite expensive.

Edit: the wooden ones are neat as the caps were fastened by string to the main container so you could tell which ones were used and which ones still had powder. It looks so 1600's...... so getting back on subject,

Any cheap ways to get powder out to the range or field in a portable, practical way to prime your musket that reduces the risk of accidental powder ignition from the match and in that event, won't be bomb-like, blow up your hand or worse?
 
I do a great deal of matchlock shooting and typically wear one of two bandoliers with 12 apostles, afield, however, I don't understand your focus on the priming.

For all intent and purpose your priming is no different than for any other BP gun and is easily done one-handed with a spring loaded, gravity-held, or stopper-topped priming flask. I'd be more concerned about the individual charges where people might want to use two hands. In that case you've got a piece of burning match with at least one end lit if not two... Paper cartridges would work as well and were introduced broadly in the 1630's.

What am I missing?

The lit matchends are woven through your left hand fingers, the same hand holding the gunby its center, and the priming is done with your right hand completely separately... You can even see that in my avatar.
 
I shoot with a guy who sometimes brings along his Matchlock. We shoot at an outdoor, but covered range.

The way he loads is to charge the barrel back at the loading benches. He then goes to the firing line, where he mounts the match into the jaws of the serpentine and lights it. He then opens the pan cover and fires.

When he is done, he dismounts the match and hangs it over the railing that is at the front of the firing line. This way he takes the gun back to the loading bench and re-charges the barrel without any burning match or prime in the gun.

Once re-charged, he returns to the firing line and primes the pan without the match in the gun. He then covers the pan with the pan cover and mounts the match, which has been sitting off to the side on the railing and slowly burning still.

You get the picture- he leaves the burning match draped over the railing at the firing line away from any powder and mounts and dismounts the burning match only right before and right after firing. This way, he never is handling powder with a burning match mounted.

This is all done at a firing range with a cover, so in the field it would be harder.

My wife wants a lefty matchlock, and I suppose this is how we would do it if she got one as well.
 
Years of matchlock shooting--about 24 shots a year--have taught me to separate the burning match from the entire reloading process. There are so many variables in the field that can intervene: wind, weather, other shooters. It's better to just set the match cord aside. I use the wooden cartridges in the bandolier and the work just fine.
 
But if you're not trying to be historically correct you might want to try the plastic black powder pop-top containers. I think they have tethered lids. Are see thru. they have different colors. I think some hold powder AND ball. I think some hold one charge on either of two sides, etc...

Frankly, I load as few bandolier's apostle's as I need to.
http://www.pcsoutdoors.com/blackpowderquickloadersandammotubes.aspx
 
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I use a bandolier with "apostles" and feel fairly safe with that. I got a set from Syke's Sutlering: http://www.sykesutler.com/musket2.htm

I have started using a copper match case during loading. The friend who got me into matchlocks started using a copy of an 18th century grenadier's match case (slightly modified) so I used a 7" length of 1 1/2" copper pipe and a couple of end caps to make mine. I cut and bent part of the end caps to make loops and soldered them on to the pipe. Then I drilled a 1/2" hole in one end (the top) and five 3/16" holes in the bottom. I also drilled a pattern of 3/16" holes in one side. The case hangs on a piece of braided rope on my left side with the holes outward.

I can stick the end of the match in there and it catches on the edge of the 1/2" hole and safely smolders in its case.

I also use a non-HC boiled leather priming flask to avoid shrapnel in the event of a mistake.

I have a 1620 style Leonard Day matchlock, which I recommend.
 
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I think that Petardo has the idea that the pan is primed with the match still in the gun. All the answers should have convinced him otherwise by now.
 
One note: the interpreters at Jamestown Settlement may wear bandoliers, but they are actually priming and charging from paper cartridges (I volunteer there a few times a year). The wooden chargers are more historically correct, but it's a State-run museum and state guidelines for handling black powder require paper cartridges. Not sure what they do over at the federally-run site.

As long as you follow the loading drill, a matchlock is actually pretty safe. Keep the match in your left hand, away from the charge. Unlike a flintlock, you can prime it first safely, because the match remains in your hand.

I think the key to matchlock safety is to have your charges pre-measured, either in paper or chargers, so that you aren't messing with a full flask of powder. I'll measure and shoot a flintlock out of a flask, but with the matchlock its always pre-measured.

Regards,
Tom R.
 
Thanks. I really need to get back to updating it; I've got a lot of projects that need to be documented.
 
There're wood and tin examples but I don't recall any leather offhand. Were such leather powder flasks including found on Mary Rose. So...

1) If there are no proven-originals or specific contemporary references to such they could not possibly have existed.

2) There were bandoleers and cows so leather apostles must have existed and were so common no-one preserved or even discussed them.

You must pick one or the other and ignore any personal attacks please.
 
The MLAIC matchlock rules require that the burning end of the match be in a metal container (most of us use an empty soft drink can) while loading. Works fine for range use.
 
I can hear the argument now... " just because jack ware was common and jack ware powder flask were know to exist dont prove any body could hve made jackware apostals".... "no, no, no, I can think of them, the stuff to make them was common it takes no special tools or skills or new invention was requierd just leather wax and thread" ..."no no no you might as well make an ak 47 after all they had wood and steel and gunpowder"..."no no no we know they were making flask"... :nono: Well I shoot me them new fangled flint lock guns so I dont have to worry. I do love to learn about them even if I dont own one...and playing with jack ware is becomming my new toy.
 
Good luck with the jack ware and remember, brewer's pitch is not where Milwaukeeans play soccer...
 
And what a great public service and membership incentive that is!

I forget, how many members of NMLRA are there now?
 
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