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rhs

32 Cal.
Joined
Jan 14, 2005
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I recently received a walnut stock block which is contaminated with what appears to be oil. It is a high quality peice of wood and if possible I'd like to salvage it. Is there a process or chemical which would draw the oil out of the stock? I'm not sure how deep the saturation goed into the wood.
 
How does the contamination show on the wood?
What effect might it have when you finish the stock?
Can you match the look when you stain the stock?
After all, you will probably use an oil stain and/or finish after the stock is completed.
 
Lots of guys pack them in flour & it pulls the oil from the wood. Worth a try.

:results:
 
rhs; Try using "K2r" spot lifter!! You should be able to find it at the grocery or hardware store, it's sometimes hard to find. Just apply a heavy (spray)coat, let dry and brush off and keep repeatin. Ya might also try mixin up a batch of rubbin alcohol and cornstarch into a slurry mix and apply with a brush, let THOURGHLY dry, brush off w/ a stiff brush & repeat as needed. When your done wipe good w/acetone. Dang sure worth a try :imo: It has worked for me in the past, I guess it all depends on how deep the wood is saturated :results: Good Luck!! :thumbsup:
Jim
 
I have used the flour method several times. Pack the wood in flour and place in oven at around 160
 
I used to fly model airplanes and often the foreward fuselage would get fuel soaked. A tip that I learned from an old timer is to use Borax. You pack it on and just let it set for a few days. Brush that off and retreat if needed. It worked well, but that was with Balsa wood - don't know how Walnut would do. If you have some Borax lying about, it is worth a shot.
 
I agree with Static: Whiting, or Kitty Litter. Put in black plastic bag and leave in sun for a while. (Don't use scented kitty litter).
Good luck.
 
For many years I have used a paste made of Whiting and denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner. Actually any highly evaporative solvent mixed with Whiting seems to work well.

The paste is painted on the oil soaked area and allowed to set for several days then wiped off.

During our warm South Texas days I put the stock in my pickup cab.The hot interior helps pull the oil out into the dried paste.

Be careful with the hot cab interior. Too much heat can cause the stock to warp or crack.

Best regard,

John L. hinnant
 
Try planeing the surface where the oil is. It's probable that you don't have to do anything. Assuming that by stock blank you mean a plank, you will probably find the oil didn't soak in very deeply.

Unless the end of the plank was soaked in oil for a while or there are deep cracks in the wood it is probably usable. Vendors and manufactures make a lot of noise about penetration but no wood finish will soak in more than a few thousandths of an inch. Technically, one could say it doesn't soak in at all, it merely coats the surface and fills the pores.

I once sawed up a military stock that had been soaked in cosmoline and stored for decades and the penetration was less than a 1/32 in. The interion wood wasn't effected at all.
 
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