Sawhandle pistol trigger location

[Martin B.]

Hi everybody,

I am working on a sawhandle pistol and need a little bit of advise. I can not figure out how to get the handle shaped so that I get the correct trigger location. I have a 2-5/8" trigger reach from the throat of the stock to the trigger. It seems i cannot get a pleasant location. It feels good, if I put my index finger on the lock and use the middle finger as trigger finger. Is this OK? Do others use the middle finger as trigger finger? It just does not feel right. Attached, are some pictures with my hand in it to show the relation of the things. Your input is greatly appreciated.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
For your hand, the grip is angled too much relative to the barrel. You need a straighter grip. Because of your choice of lock, you may have trouble adjusting the grip. The lock is too long and to adjust your fit, you may need to cut the top of the grip below the saw handle spur in deeper to straighten your wrist and lower your trigger finger.

dave

 

[Martin B.]

I had the grip angle straighter since I compared it to a long barreled single shot handgun. The trigger reach there is 3-1/4". However, there you have to shoot with a bent wrist which I am not trying to do with this gun. The lock is a Chambers small Siler and I thought that would be about the smallest in my price range. Any suggestions for a better fitting lock? So, you say to remove wood at the back of the grip to move the hand in closer to the trigger? There is enough wood to remove without getting skinny yet. I may be able to move the trigger back maybe another 1/4" by cutting and bending the trigger plate to fit in the new location. If things go not well, I got plenty of Ash sitting around and start again. I really like the look of the sawhandle look, but have no good prints, but some pictures to go by. Thank you for your feedback and have a nice day!

Martin

 

[user 34300]

Bending the trigger pad backward will produce and angle that better matches your finger's natural pull. It will not look HC though. I do it anyway. IF I does not shoot well, I am not interested.

When I make pistols I scale up pictures of originals. I then make my drafting of parts layout base on what I have on the bench. I usually figure makers like Manton were pretty close to right. Because I have short fingers I count on moving the trigger back. I usually make a new trigger to works best for my hand. I like the pad of my index finger to be close to 90* to the bore. IF you are pushing on the side of the trigger you will get horizontal dispersion on the target. If the trigger reach is to short you will have the same problem.

 

[colimr]

The wrist in picture 1 where your thumb sits should have been longer .. Your thumb is on the side plate telling me your grip is too far forward. The tip of your thumb should be about 1/2" to 3/4" back from where it is now on the side plate not touching it. Often people with large hands encounter grip issues on hand guns hence modern "back strap" adapters on unmentionable modern pistols. If you lengthen the wrist you will only thin your gri[p your going to start over sorry to say. If I may suggest make a cardboard templet of what you have now cut it 1/2" behind where the grip curve and tip of the side plate line up. Add a peice approx. 1" to give a decent range of adjustment then check finger placement where trigger will be adjust to fit .When it feels right transfer to a new blank. This is just my opinion

 

[Col. Batguano]

Getting the measurements right for your personal anatomy and shooting style is always tricky. With a pistol it's even trickier, as, how far your index finger reaches from the web of your hand is influenced by the grip circumference. (Your hand is the only part of your anatomy that engages the gun, so fit is even more critical.) Where your finger interacts with the trigger can also be a function of weight of trigger pull. That is, a 3 oz. trigger can be easily used by the finger pad, but a 3 lb. pull may need engagement closer to the finger joint. (Think of a modern revolver in SA and DA modes and where you engage the trigger with your finger, as well as difference in the LOP in the 2 different modes.)

I personally like the idea of using a small diameter grip like a broom stick and an adjustable angled barrel (like with a bolt, washers and wing nut screws, and then building up the grip with clay until things feel comfortable. Once you have your dimensions that's a good starting point. When doing the ACTUAL build start with a bigger chunk of wood and start rasping things--slowly, using your clay model for guidance.