Sawzall blade stock

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I picked up an old 9- or 10-inch sawzall type blade marked Simonds in a 75-cent tool bin thinking it might make a couple of decent patch knives. Should I heat to non-magnetic to anneal before cutting,grinding and filing out the blades then re-heat and quench to harden? In oil? Water? I can temper from there, I think. Just want to hear from someone who has been there, done that.
Thanks.
 
for best results you'd want to anneal it first, thats some tough steel. I know...it takes me half a day to tear one up when cutting nails! :grin:
And an oil quench when hardening/tempering...I've been hearing good things about olive oil, may give it a shot this year.
 
If you avoid grips that require drilling the steel, I would say just grind it to what you want as is. Just be sure to not overheat. The temper in those is probably better than you will be able to reproduce. Grind bare handed, cool in water constantly. It's a thin blade and won't take too long to grind.
 
I saved a few pieces of our Ellis 1 1/2" bandsaw blades to make some scapers from. It is very tough and hard to work with in its "natural" state. I will have to try the cold grind again before the heat route.
 
Also keep in mind that a lot of saw blades nowdays are Bi-metal blades. The body of the blade is soft mild iron/steel, while the teeth are of high quality hardened tool steel. So you will be dealing with two different types of steel in a saw blade.

Now, those sawsall blades will be much better quality steel - to withstand the flexing in use. But lots of bandsaw blades will have a much "softer" steel backing.

The Spec sheet on those blades would tell you what they really are.

For most simple "utility" type knives, it shouldn't matter. A carefull grinding/shaping without overheating the blade and losing that original heat-treat should give you a workable knife. But they will be hard to file - because of that initial heat-treat. Plus you aren't concerned about the "teeth" part anyway.

Mikey - that grumpy ol' German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands
 
I bought a couple of those laminated "patch knife" blades sold by several sources, and found them impossible to drill holes in the tang for cross pins. That is, until I clamped the blades in my bench vise, and heated the tangs red hot. Then while they were still red hot, I drilled right through the tangs as if they were made of balsa wood! The bench vise jaws acted as a heat sink, so I had no discoloring or loss of temper to the blades.

I would think the same thing can be done with this " sawzall" blade, if you want to drill the tang for a cross pin, or for a landyard or cord to go through the handle.
 
What Paul said should work fine. As far as the bi-metal blades. If you clean off the paint, you can see the edge steel where it joins the softer. This is cobalt steel that holds a great edge, if you can design your blade to keep it as your edge.
 
You are welcome. I got the idea from watching a wheelwright punch 1/4" diameter holes in some " tire " stock( 1/4 inch thick x 3" wide steel straps) after heating the ends over an open fire to red hot. He had a punch shaped Hoagie in his anvil, and a helper to hold the steel tire, while he gave each of two holes in the end a hard " whack" with a sledge hammer. Then the piece was turned over, and he whacked the Dimples that were sticking up from his early effort, and out popped a 1/4" diameter slug, and he had his holes for riveting the two ends of the tire together.

I figured that if he could punch a hole through that thick a piece of steel with only a couple of whacks with his sledge hammer on that punch, while the metal was red hot, I should be able to drill through that tang if it was red hot. I had returned to my local hardware store to replace a high carbon steel drill bit I had damaged, and then I bought two more bits, one with a carbide edge to it, to use as a last resort. I kept the two replacement bits, but took the carbide bit back for a refund. The clerk wanted to know how I succeeded, and after I told him what I wrote above, he thanked me and asked me permission to share that with other customers. Of course, I laughed, and gave him permission. He was greatly amused that a d#*n lawyer, dressed in suit and tie, was buying tools from him, and then figured out how to drill holes where they were not suppose to be drilled, and used a common, cheap, high carbon bit to do it!

I was going to put a very wet rag around the tang below my drill site on top of the vise, to keep the blade from heating up. But, I found out that the jaws acted as a heat sink, and the blade was not even warm to the touch after I finished drilling my hole and removed the blade from the heat, and the vise. I laid the finished blade down on a metal plate, and drilled the second tang in less time than it takes to write about it.
 
Paul: Vise as heat sink is a pious idea and I'll try it.
Here is $4 worth of decent steel junk that I bought yesterday. Hammer head will become a small hatchet.
IMG_0970.jpg
 
BillinOregon said:
I picked up an old 9- or 10-inch sawzall type blade marked Simonds in a 75-cent tool bin thinking it might make a couple of decent patch knives. Should I heat to non-magnetic to anneal before cutting,grinding and filing out the blades then re-heat and quench to harden? In oil? Water? I can temper from there, I think. Just want to hear from someone who has been there, done that.
Thanks.

Quench in oil, even if it is water hard, thin pcs will harden in oil........or they should :grin:
 
Please....... post a tutorial of turning the hammer into a hachet, I'll bet I'm not the only one who would like to see that.
 
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