hello I was just wondering if anyone on the forum has put a scope on their flint lock and how they mounted it I know its not a popular thing to do but as my age gets on my eye sight gets worse and I am finding it near impossible to use the open sights that it came with I cant focuse so pics or advice would be a great help thanks.
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scope a flintlock
- Thread starter fisherman
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CrimsonTide
32 Cal.
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My guess is that you would have to have your barrel drilled and tapped. Once that is done, I am sure weaver makes a mount and then it would be a matter of putting it up in rings high enough to keep it out of the hammer and frizzen.
If scoping your flinter is the only way you can keep hunting, then scope it.
If scoping your flinter is the only way you can keep hunting, then scope it.
Something to try before committing to a scope is to move your rear sight forward on the barrel. Remove it and tape it on the barrel a few inches forward and see if that doesn't help your ability to aim. If you don't like it in that spot, move it more forward and tape it again until you find the spot that your eyes can see it clearly. Once you find the perfect spot, reinstall it there.
I've had to do that on a few of mine and it works very well. It was done in the old days too.
I've had to do that on a few of mine and it works very well. It was done in the old days too.
Leonredbeard
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Someone out there makes the old long tube scopes. It would likely help your sighting and it would look right as well.
volatpluvia
volatpluvia
kevthebassman
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RickD said:
:thumbsup: I don't use one myself as I have young eyes, but the old timers I shoot with use them.
Here's a link to what the Merit is: Merit Optical Sight
Guest
Fisherman,
You don't have to drill and tap your barrel!!! There were mounts made some time ago that clamped onto the barrel and were made in various sizes for different barrel sizes. They left no marks on the barrel and they were quite snug. Once in place you can use standard Weaver type scope rings. I think I may have a couple. Send me your barrel size and I will look for them. If I have one that will work, I'm certain we can strike a deal.
Mark
You don't have to drill and tap your barrel!!! There were mounts made some time ago that clamped onto the barrel and were made in various sizes for different barrel sizes. They left no marks on the barrel and they were quite snug. Once in place you can use standard Weaver type scope rings. I think I may have a couple. Send me your barrel size and I will look for them. If I have one that will work, I'm certain we can strike a deal.
Mark
you did not say what type of rifle you have if it is a t-c type you could make a rail mount that goes where the rear sight is and use a pistol scope. that would get you out past the hammer and frizzen. it works i made one up and used it on a mauser so i would not have to rework the bolt and drill the receiver.
I knew a guy who would put a scope on his gun to
see how it grouped..when he found the perfect load
he removed the scope. Interesting how he mounted it..He used the two screws that held the lock
plate on..Simple. I don't remember if it was a flinter or a concussion..Doesn't matter.
see how it grouped..when he found the perfect load
he removed the scope. Interesting how he mounted it..He used the two screws that held the lock
plate on..Simple. I don't remember if it was a flinter or a concussion..Doesn't matter.
Jumpshot
54 Cal.
I have no experience with this mount, but it's an option to consider. This one is for 1" barrels, they also have one for 15/16" barrels...
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=7613
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=7613
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IMO If a scope is going to be mounted on a flintlock, it should be the cheapest one that can be found.
The flash from the pan will deposit fouling all over it and the acids the fouling creates will rapidly attack the scope.
The flash from the pan will deposit fouling all over it and the acids the fouling creates will rapidly attack the scope.
Years ago there was a gun writer who used very short light weight rifles with a scope mounted about half way down the barrel, he called it a "Scout" rifle.
He used pistol scopes, long eye relief, this might be an option.
Buy a low end long eye relief pistol scope and have the barrel drilled and tapped.
RDE
He used pistol scopes, long eye relief, this might be an option.
Buy a low end long eye relief pistol scope and have the barrel drilled and tapped.
RDE
I would suggest first trying a peep rear sight mounted close to the eye. If you'll punch a small hole in a piece of foil and look through it you'll notice how it sharpens the view. The aforementioned Merit disk works the same but having it attached to the glasses while hunting would be a real PITA. Some folks achieve the same result with a small piece of black tape having a small peep hole stuck in just the right spot on the glasses. The peep sight on the rifle provides a similar effect but comes into play only when actually aiming.
If you must use a scope the long eye relief pistol or scout scope mounted well forward is the best option since powder fouling will, as Zonie warned, quickly ruin a scope mounted near the breech. I have attached temporary scope mounts with JB Weld. They stayed put as long as I wanted and were easily removed by heating until the JB began to smoke, then rubbing it off with fine steel wool. It removes completely without a trace and without damage to the finish of the barrel.
Here in Colorado scopes are not an option since that violates the statutory definition of a muzzleloader and I tend to agree.
Whatever you choose to do, be safe, be legal, and have fun! :grin:
If you must use a scope the long eye relief pistol or scout scope mounted well forward is the best option since powder fouling will, as Zonie warned, quickly ruin a scope mounted near the breech. I have attached temporary scope mounts with JB Weld. They stayed put as long as I wanted and were easily removed by heating until the JB began to smoke, then rubbing it off with fine steel wool. It removes completely without a trace and without damage to the finish of the barrel.
Here in Colorado scopes are not an option since that violates the statutory definition of a muzzleloader and I tend to agree.
Whatever you choose to do, be safe, be legal, and have fun! :grin:
If it's a T/C sidelock, there is a scope hole drilled & tapped on the top of the back edge of the breech plug...using this hole and one of the rear sight screw holes, a Weaver base is installed then the scope mounted.
A neoprene cover is available to protect the exterior of scopes...or get a roll of GI OD dry adhesive duct tape and just keep the bottom & side of the scope covered with that.
If I was going to do it, I'd use Quick Release mounts to be able to set the scope aside during the cleaning process after shooting.
A neoprene cover is available to protect the exterior of scopes...or get a roll of GI OD dry adhesive duct tape and just keep the bottom & side of the scope covered with that.
If I was going to do it, I'd use Quick Release mounts to be able to set the scope aside during the cleaning process after shooting.
freeonthree
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any good optician should be able to make you a pair of shooting glasses with a extra focal higher in the glasses to use when aiming your rifle.I had a pair made up they are about the same price as a pair of bifocals and if you have a good medical plan at work it will even pay for them My plan did.
The one that I use (Merit) mounts in the upper right quadrant of a pair of safety glasses and I don't even notice it unless I am actually sighting the rifle. When I have a cheek weld I am looking through the diopter. With my head erect and looking with both eyes open it is almost completely out of my field of vision.
Russ T Frizzen
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That sounds like Jeff Cooper, one of the best that ever was! That might be an option in this case.
