Scope Mount For A Octagon Barrel

[chorizo]

JB weld won't stick to the chrome.

If you don't want to mess with your chrome job, you might fabricate something like this:...now where is that tongue in cheek emoji?

 

[Ohio Rusty]

In another lifetime ago, I had a muzzleloader scope mount that clamped on to the barrel on both sides just above the wood. The underside of the mount matched the flats on the barrel. It tightened with hex head screws and held the scope tightly in place. I wish I could remember the name of this clamp on scope mount. I bet there a few of them floating around out there that could be found.
Ohio Rusty ><>

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Because the builder of this gun screwed up the dovetails for the sight mounts and I can't find any so I decided to mount a 3-9x power scope on it I had laying around. After talking to my brother found out T/C had made a magnetic mount for a scope and decided to try it3d printing one. I have very slight windage movement that I believe is caused from using round magnets instead of rectangular ones (which are ordered). Opinions good or bad are always welcome and help us novices keep the cart BEHIND the horse. The new magnets are 1x1/2"x1/8". 6 of them are now mounted giving me a pull force of 84 lbs. There is no movement in the scope.

My solution would be to get a sight with an oversized base and trim to fit the dovetail. However, if you're insistent on using a scope, you can drill and tap. Using a good double-sided tale would be better than the magnets. This 3M stuff just doesn't come off once it's stuck. Semper Fi.

 

[Bob K]

Drilling and tapping mounting holes on my muzzle loader was easy for scope mounts. I target shoot frequently putting 10-20 shots down range. There was enough barrel heat generated that the screw holes expanded ever so slightly, allowing the recoil to turn the screws. Tried blue then red Loctight and still occurs.

My initial issue was degraded eye sight and found that the aperture sight worked great and 50-100 yrd shooting improved nicely.

 

[earlwb]

Well in any case it is an interesting idea about the magnetic scope mount. I look forward to how it works out when shooting. It might need a few iterations of the scope base and or stronger magnets. Some magnets would have enough strength to make it difficult to get off once in place too.

 

[Rawhide67]

My limited knowledge of 3d printing is that it involves plastic composites. Not ideal for a scope base, I wouldn't think.

And, I also think those magnets are going to move, at least a little bit, during recoil.

 

[stikshooter]

A basic 3x9 scope will not work that far forward. The eye relief will be way out of whack.

You'll need a scout scope for proper eye relief.

And Bubba would use hose clamps to secure the scope. Just remember to inlet the stock so the straps have clearance.

P.S. Paint your 45 degree obliques with epoxy. That will take care of your windage problem. Oil the barrel so the epoxy doesn't stick to the barrel.

I don't think so 3 of my TC Renegades have 2x7 /and 4 power Leupolds and the doe shot yesterday @114 yds with the 54 /90 gr OE 3F under a Lyman Plains would strongly disagree had she survived (not likely)/Ed

 

[Whiteoak15]

A long eye relief scope is NOT needed if you do the job correctly. I have had a steel Weaver K2.5 with a P&CH reticle on one of my .54 Renegades for years. Solid as a rock and nearly indestructible.

 

[64Springer]

I don't think so 3 of my TC Renegades have 2x7 /and 4 power Leupolds and the doe shot yesterday @114 yds with the 54 /90 gr OE 3F under a Lyman Plains would strongly disagree had she survived (not likely)/Ed

The OP has his scope, based on the picture, mounted between the front and rear sights.

A standard 3x9 scope, depending on manufacturer, has 2 to 3 inches of eye relief.

Under no circumstances will a standard 3x9 scope work if it's placed mid way down the barrel. The reticle disappears. The field of view disappears. The target and or tasty animal disappears.

If standard breech mounted/action mounted scopes worked mid way down the barrel, scout scopes never would have been invented.

 

[stikshooter]

The OP has his scope, based on the picture, mounted between the front and rear sights.

A standard 3x9 scope, depending on manufacturer, has 2 to 3 inches of eye relief.

Under no circumstances will a standard 3x9 scope work if it's placed mid way down the barrel. The reticle disappears. The field of view disappears. The target and or tasty animal disappears.

If standard breech mounted/action mounted scopes worked mid way down the barrel, scout scopes never would have been invented.

Didn't see photo just your statement wouldn't work looking at photo I still don't see where it's mounted . Mine are all mounted between front and rear sight as long as the rear is gone , mine works fine!!! /Ed

 

[Skipper_52]

The scope position is adjustable. I had just stuck it on the barrel for the photo. I will end up mounting it just forward of the hammer throw and checked the eye relief at that position (all the way back as far as possible) and the relief is fine. Initial pictures showed 3/8" x 1/8" round magnets. These allowed too much movement in the scope so it was reprinted to accept 1" x 1/2" x 1/8" rectangular magnets (6 of them) over the 8" mounting. Total pull of magnets is 84 lbs. I can lift the gun holding onto the scope. I am not saying there might be some slight movement from recoil, I won't know until I shoot it this spring but it appears to be pretty firm. Only time will tell. Also it is a .36 caliber and way less recoil than a 50. It was a project gun and I have way more into it than the thing is worth but if it shoots like manure I might consider sending it out east for a re-bore to a 50.

 

[Skipper_52]

I really need help identifying this hammer assembly. I believe it is worn and someone did a half-ass job of trying to fix it. There are only 2 areas on it that are stamped.

 

[64Springer]

Worn how?

 

[Skipper_52]

1st, the trigger assembly is only a set trigger. It won't work without it set. Not broken, just the way it is. Someone had issues with this lock assembly before. It appears that the hammer release lever has been 'worked' on and is bent. The lower portion of this arm extends past the plate when in half-cock making the half-cock position impossible. I removed as much wood as possible from the stock to allow clearance. I would rather buy a new plate assembly if I can find one or even a used one if this can be identified. You can see how it extends past the plate in image 0960. If I file this excess away I'm afraid there won;t be enough meat on it for the trigger arm to hit it and fire it. God I wish I knew the proper terms for everything. Please don't comment on the temporary washers. I need to shorten the hammer screw and am addressing the other problems.