scratch frizzen

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tank you all very instructive post

TRH said:
At $17, they sound more like the man made ceramic flints that were going around some years back and may still be around. (the ones referred to in the post, not the one in the picture)My own experience is the knapped flints last much longer than the cut ones. I can re- knap mine, the cut ones, not so much. I must say, from the pictures, the lock geometry on that thing is all wrong. I don't see how you could get any flint to strike the top of the frizzen. Terrible.
its sad ,i think all lyman ,grat plain, trade and deer stalker have the same lock kit??

more i read the forum ,i undertand ,why the locks marquet is so good ,i will surly buy a new one one day,,
but for now ,i want to make that one more efective ,

i could only try the thick leather ,and try different longer flint later,

could i find a part to change whitout buying all a new lock?

i have take a look under that lock
1000658w.jpg



target man
 
I also noticed what White Fox said about the frizzen not closing all the way. You should definitely correct that problem. If not you will lose priming powder and/or allow moisture to get to the prime. Not good, especially while hunting.

The Lyman cock is just too short. On all of their flintlocks. Just poor lock geometry in the design.

The quick and cheap fix is to install a thick piece of leather under the flint to help raise it up as much as the top jaw screw will allow. The leather on top does not have to be nearly as thick.
This will help but not make it perfect.

Forum member ebiggs has come up with a better solution. He installs the cock, top jaw, and screw assembly from the new style T/C flint lock on the Lyman lock. This makes for MUCH better lock geometry.
Search ebiggs' topics or send him a PT. I'm sure he would give you good advice as to how to correctly accomplish this modification.
 
Jethro224 said:
I also noticed what White Fox said about the frizzen not closing all the way. You should definitely correct that problem. If not you will lose priming powder and/or allow moisture to get to the prime. Not good, especially while hunting.

i havent read it, before posting my last message ,,
tanks ,i havent seen that problem,
i can understand the importance of work on that,
it will be jewelry job to fit it perfect,but worth twice the effort if that help the angle of the frizzen in the same time,



The Lyman cock is just too short. On all of their flintlocks. Just poor lock geometry in the design.

The quick and cheap fix is to install a thick piece of leather under the flint to help raise it up as much as the top jaw screw will allow. The leather on top does not have to be nearly as thick.
This will help but not make it perfect.

Forum member ebiggs has come up with a better solution. He installs the cock, top jaw, and screw assembly from the new style T/C flint lock on the Lyman lock. This makes for MUCH better lock geometry.
Search ebiggs' topics or send him a PT. I'm sure he would give you good advice as to how to correctly accomplish this modification.

tanks for the ebiggs scoop too ,

target man
 
Jethro224 said:
I also noticed what White Fox said about the frizzen not closing all the way. You should definitely correct that problem. If not you will lose priming powder and/or allow moisture to get to the prime. Not good, especially while hunting.

The Lyman cock is just too short. On all of their flintlocks. Just poor lock geometry in the design.

The quick and cheap fix is to install a thick piece of leather under the flint to help raise it up as much as the top jaw screw will allow. The leather on top does not have to be nearly as thick.
This will help but not make it perfect.

Forum member ebiggs has come up with a better solution. He installs the cock, top jaw, and screw assembly from the new style T/C flint lock on the Lyman lock. This makes for MUCH better lock geometry.
Search ebiggs' topics or send him a PT. I'm sure he would give you good advice as to how to correctly accomplish this modification.

ithink i have found the post after scaning a lot,,,,, of post :grin:


http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/258209/post/1003282/hl//fromsearch/1/#1003282


img1240pi.jpg


target man
 
Chert varieties vary in the their location (as you mentioned), the way they were formed, and the trace minerals found in them.

That is definitely correct. We have a lot of chert in my part of the Ozarks. None of it is worth a spit as a gunflint. However, there are many arrowheads found in these parts made from some really nice flint/chert. Go figger. :confused:
 
Rifleman1776 said:
That is definitely correct. We have a lot of chert in my part of the Ozarks. None of it is worth a spit as a gunflint. However, there are many arrowheads found in these parts made from some really nice flint/chert. Go figger. :confused:
The Indians took all the good stuff.
 
Good flint was one item traded freely among paleo Indians. Could have come from a fair distance.
Regards,
Pletcher
 
Yes Target Man, see how much higher the flint strikes the frizzen in that photo? Much better.
 
There's chert, and there's chert, and there's chert....

Not all silicified materials are suitable for knapping. The degree of silicification, impurities, weathering and other factors affect suitability for knapping and gunflints. Aboriginal Americans traded highly workable rock across great distances. The truly great working "Alibates Flint"- actually a chert- from along the Canadian River NE of Amarillo, TX was traded widely up the High Plains, nearly to Canada. Once you've seen Alibates, you'll recognize it wherever seen.

Every other year I hunt pronghorn in Central Wyoming, along Moss Agate Ridge, where there are outcroppings of some pretty good stone. There's a particular spot overlooking a spring fed marshy area where the ground is covered with debitage (flakes, chips and spent cores) left long ago by hunters using far more primitive implements.....

White Fox
 
Jethro224 said:
Yes Target Man, see how much higher the flint strikes the frizzen in that photo? Much better.

yes big difference than the lyman one ,,,

we can saw it too ,on the new flintlock thompson center fire storm
the flint hit the frizzen very hight,,

i think i can order only a cock and top jaw from track of the wolf ,and fit it on my rifle,
for very not expensive t'l time i can buy a complete set of locks,

target man
 
Don't forget to order the jaw screw also. You will have to do a little filing in the square hole to fit the new T/C cock to your Lyman lock.
 
There's chert, and there's chert, and there's chert....

Not necessarily. In my part of the Arkansas Ozarks we have....chert. :wink: :rotf:
BTW, I am familiar with the trading by early indians. However, those who hunt arrowheads find far more than, I believe, would be laying around from traded material.
 
here archeologist found some ,
close to st-laurence river
lost or deleted by europeen traveler

t'l time i could find mine ,,,, :grin: ,
i have ordered some from rich pierce
my lyman will feel better :grin:


target man
 
If you are going to get the T/C hammer, be sure to buy the Top Jaw and Jaw Screw as well. They are different sizes than the GPR uses. It takes about 2 weeks to get the parts delivered.

T/C Part numbers:
Hammer 51015630
Top Jaw 51015700
Top Jaw Screw 51165680
 
FPDoc said:
If you are going to get the T/C hammer, be sure to buy the Top Jaw and Jaw Screw as well. They are different sizes than the GPR uses. It takes about 2 weeks to get the parts delivered.

T/C Part numbers:
Hammer 51015630
Top Jaw 51015700
Top Jaw Screw 51165680

tanks for the parts number
that will be much easyer to order

target man
 
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