Scrub planes

[BillinOregon]

Here's another item that I am sure many overlook. I was instructed by a serious HBCo. re-enactor on another site to use one of these to adjust the thickness of boards I planned to use to make an early 19th-century wooden box.
This was the thickness plane of the period, and most boards of that time were "S4S" with this tool, which left its subtle pattern. I have made various items over the years of pine, fir and other woods with their surfaces left as they came from the mill. All wrong, of course.
Anywho, this plane is on my short list of tools to acquire for building boxes and other period containers. Bet there are several craftsmen here who use scrub planes and can show us what they can do to step up our games.

 

[necchi]

What is "S4S" ?

 

[Woodyrock]

My #40 is an essential tool even though I do have an old wood body scrub. The narrow body makes the 40 a much easier tool in use than does the much wider wood body. Scrubbing off a surface is done diagonal to the grain with the grain. Since it is taking off about 1/16" or more each pass, you can remove material very quickly. I frequently take the wind out of heavy stuff before running through the planer with a scrub plane.
Woody

 

[Black Hand]

What is "S4S" ?

Surfaced 4 sides (as opposed to rough-cut).

 

[crockett]

In other words if you buy 3/4" thick boards you can plane them down to 1/2"? That would work out well on all sorts of projects. Them me more about these planes and what they looked like, Etc. Thanks.

 

[BillinOregon]

Crockett: This is supposed to be one of the best, and pretty affordable: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2...={matchtype}&gclid=COeX6czb07oCFbFxQgod1HEA-A
It's on my list along with bowl and spoon gouges next time I get near a Woodcraft!

 

[Woodyrock]

Check E-Bay for a #40 Stanley scrub plane. Most of them look like crap if they were used. If they look new, the collectors will pay too much for them. With luck, you should get one for $25~$30. They have painted bodies, and were used hard for rough work. So long as the iron is not pitted you can bring one back to life pretty easy. The irons are ground to an arc, so they work like a gouge. A smoothing plane will finish the surface after scrubbing.
Woody

 

[BillinOregon]

Woody, great advice. Thanks.

 

[glw]

I've done this before and it's a pretty good upper body workout even if you're technique is good and your plane iron is sharp.

There is a good video on how to do this produced by Popular Woodworking magazine and presented by Christopher Schwarz. I followed his example and was successful but, as I said, it's a workout.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Check E-Bay for a #40 Stanley scrub plane. Most of them look like crap if they were used. If they look new, the collectors will pay too much for them. With luck, you should get one for $25~$30. They have painted bodies, and were used hard for rough work. So long as the iron is not pitted you can bring one back to life pretty easy. The irons are ground to an arc, so they work like a gouge. A smoothing plane will finish the surface after scrubbing.
Woody

Good comment. Actually, searching antique shops and flea markets will bring up a lot of really good old planes at reasonable prices.
A good reconditioned plane can bring big bucks. From a wood working forum I belong to I have learned the best customers are collector-users.

 

[glw]

I've read that flea markets are good places to shop for such things out on the east coast. I've not found that to be the case in the central US (Oklahoma) where I live. I've bought old tools online though with good results.

I've bought from Patrick Leach (supertool.com) and Joshua Clark (hyperkitten.com).

I have a Stanley #5 (usually called a jack plane) that I put a curved iron in and it serves well as a scrub plane. Easier to find too.

 

[Supercracker]

I got a cheapo, #4 knock off plane from Woodcraft (I think) that was on sale for very cheap and just made it into a scrub plane.

All you really need to do it adjust the throat a bit more open and regrind and sharpen the blade to have a radiused edge. I THINK I used 7" or so. Mark it out with a sharpie on the iron, grind it close without getting it hot, then resharpen to the new radiused edge.


A little while back there as an episode of the woodwrights shop with Chris Schwartz on devoted to the various planes. IIRC, in the episode they regrind and adjust a #4? Stanley to be used as a scrub plane. The episode is probably on line

 

[kaintuck]

:thumbsup:
PBS "woodwright shop" episodes......
he used a 8" radius on his scrub plane, you need a good place, a bench the right height, and a big galss of tea~.......

lee valley tools just got some more of my money~ I NEED more routers, spoke shaves, and plow planes.... :youcrazy: :youcrazy: :youcrazy:

 

[44-henry]

I have an old wood body scrub plane that I used a few times, as was said earlier, it is a good workout. I figure that most of this work was handled by the apprentices leaving the finer work for the more experienced hands. I like to think of my 15" stationary planer as my apprentice.

 

[Woodyrock]

A planer will not take wind out of a board. If you do not have a large jointer the scrub plane will take the wind out, then you can feed it into the planer.
Woody

 

[44-henry]

Actually with a simple jig the planer can flatten a board as easily as a jointer will and will likely handle wider stock. I have also done the same with special router jigs and in these instances If a large diameter round nose bit is used it will look much like the finish you get with a scrub plane.

Though in small shops rough lumber was likely finished with hand planes power planers were not unheard of, least by the late 1700's they were being made and used in Europe and probably here as well in large sawmills. By the middle of the 19th century dimensioned lumber would have been fairly easy to purchase at saw mills.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Antique malls and flea markets are a great place to get the original planes. I can usually "restore " them in about four hours to good condition. There is a local antique mall in our county that always has a good selection in the $10 to $25 range. :idunno:

 

[Rifleman1776]

A planer will not take wind out of a board. If you do not have a large jointer the scrub plane will take the wind out, then you can feed it into the planer.
Woody

Never heard that wood working term "wind". :idunno:

 

[GunnyGene]

A planer will not take wind out of a board. If you do not have a large jointer the scrub plane will take the wind out, then you can feed it into the planer.
Woody

Never heard that wood working term "wind". :idunno:

It refers to a "twist" in the board. Usually can be planed out by using "winding sticks" on the board to measure by eye how much to plane off and where. Goggle them for the how to.

Speaking of hand planes, I recently picked up a Stanley 5C, Type 13 (1925-1928) for $7.50 at a flea market. A little rusty - well a lot rusty - but easily cleaned up & fettled. All the parts are there. Will make a good worker. I have about a dozen planes of various sizes from block planes to jointers, all old, and none that cost me over $20. On the other end, it's easy to spend $1000 on a custom in-fill plane.

My latest acquisition:

Higher priced in-fill plane example: this is a large panel plane from Holtey. about $9000.

 

[BillinOregon]

Gene, I simply had no idea planes could be that expensive!

:shocked2: