Sealing chambers

[broknprism]

Still new to this, second post. What's the best stuff to seal a loaded chamber with? If a ball shaves a ring of lead off (for a tight seal) and a lubed wad is used on top of the powder, does the chamber have to be greased over with something?

And is Ballistol the recommended cleaner/lubricant. Thanks!

 

[Zonie]

Most folks would say that if you are using a lubricated felt wad between the powder and the ball you don't need to bother with adding any grease to lubricate or to seal the front of the chambers.

You do need to keep an eye on the caps at the rear of the cylinder though.
Many of the reproduction pistols use nipples that fit the caps rather poorly.
While an oversized cap can be pinched to make it fit the nipple, they will sometimes come off exposing the hole thru them to the powder flash from a firing chamber.
That can lead to chain firing which may ruin the gun and certainly will give you and all folks around you something to remember.

As for Ballistol, many swear by it and some swear at it.
For general lubrication on a Cap & Ball revolver almost any non-petroleum oil will work for the moving parts.
The Colt style pistols have a grooved cylinder pin that was made to hold grease. This helps keep fouling out of that area.
Greases like lard are good for this area but do not use lard if it has salt added as some do.
Another product that works well here is Crisco vegetable shorting.

 

[broknprism]

I have two 2nd gen Colts and I've ordered Remington #10 caps. I hope they fit well.

I bought some kind of chamber sealer from Maine but I can't remember what it is. Everything is in the mail as I write, so I'm just trying to get a jump on things. Thanks for the advice.

 

[renovato]

The best thing to seal the chamber with is a tight fitting ball. Grease isn't much of a firewall to hot gas under pressure. I don't bother with grease, myself. I use filler like corn meal to get the ball flush with the chamber mouth. The filler helps scrub out the fouling somewhat also.

I use Ballistol and it works well as a lube. For rust prevention, I prefer CorrosionX though.

Cleaning is best done with soapy water. No need for solvent type cleaners. Ballistol mixed with water makes a good cleaner, but why waste it when soapy water is cheap and available?

 

[Coot]

My 2nd gen 1851 Colt prefers #11 caps, my High Standard Griswold & Gunnison likes #10s better. You will just have to try a size on your guns & see what fits well. Try a search on the Forum - there are several past topics re wads vs grease on sealing chambers & each system has it's adherents. Good shooting to you!

 

[wulf]

I put lube on top the ball because I don't like
shooting a dry lead ball through the bore...Just
me.....

 

[broknprism]

Lubing the ball -- good point. I don't want a lead lined bore. I will definitely lube the ball.

"My 2nd gen 1851 Colt prefers #11 caps, my High Standard Griswold & Gunnison likes #10s better."

The caps I bought came by the 1000, so I hope #10 is kind to my Colt! : ) I guess a little big would have been better than a litte small. I'll let you know how they fit.

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

I don't use a wad because it takes up space that I'd rather fill with powder. I tend to shoot my Colt's at 100 yards and like the extra velocity. Plink is absolutely right: the best chamber sealer is a nice tight ball that shaves an even ring off when you seat it. Most likely you will want .454 balls, but .457s are available if needed. The .451s will roll right back out of the chambers under recoil if they even seat at all. I use a beeswax and tallow lube on the arbor to keep things turning easily and over the balls to keep fouling soft, but Colt never mentioned lubing the chambers so it's optional. You will be pleasantly surprised at the reach of these revolvers and the accuracy they are capable of.

 

[Blizzard of '93]

sometimes I load rb over max charge of powder and a dry felt. then seal the chamber with a mix 2pts beeswax or toilet ring and 1 pt vaseline.
this same mix I dip my Lee mold slugs into.
does fine.

 

[TFoley]

sometimes I load rb over max charge of powder and a dry felt. then seal the chamber with...toilet ring and 1 pt vaseline.

I WAS going to write that this was a family forum, and you just never know if the littl'uns are reading this as well, so, just for me, could you elucidate on this, ahem, recipe, please?

tac

 

[broknprism]

Now's the time to ask if I made a mistake ordering .451 Buffalo Ball-etts and Buffalo Bullets. I was so psyched to find a supply, I bought 'em, and .451 was teh only size available, so I assumed the Buffalo folks knew their stuff. Will they be too small, or do bullets behave differently than balls in a chamber? They're knurled on the sides, if that matters. The ball-etts are slightly hollow on the base, which I like.

Yes, I want to know the beeswax recipe too. I like the idea of a wax blend. I use it to wax thread for beading, and it's sturdy stuff.

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

I haven't used them myself, but they seem small. Maybe they expand when you seat them. Otherwise they will slide forward under recoil and there is also the strong chance of a chain fire.

The lube is just beeswax and tallow melted together in a double boiler with any sculch skimmed off. I usually go with a 50-50 blend and then use olive oil to soften the lube for colder weather use. Dosen't take much oil to noticeably alter the lube's consistency.

 

[Zonie]

I don't have any 2nd Gen Colt data but many .44 caliber reproductions have chamber diameters of .446-.450.

If your chamber diameters is .450 the .451 diameter bullets might work alright. Being a elongated bullet the extra length of the body should provide a better grip on the inside of the chambers and prevent their slipping during recoil.

Because the outside is knurled you might want to lubricate it a bit with a thick lube to provide better sealing and some lubrication for the lead as it goes down the barrel.

The only way to find out if my theories are right or wrong is to shoot several of them.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

sometimes I load rb over max charge of powder and a dry felt. then seal the chamber with...toilet ring and 1 pt vaseline.

I WAS going to write that this was a family forum, and you just never know if the littl'uns are reading this as well, so, just for me, could you elucidate on this, ahem, recipe, please?

tac

A plumber you are not. :rotf: :rotf:

When you remove the commode (water closet, AKA Crapper) there will be a wax (petroleum, no longer bees wax) ring in place where it mates up with the sewer pipe flange. They are sold at Home Depot, Lowell's etc, as a new one is required when replacing the unit.

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

All my .44 calliber 2nd Generation Colts use a .454 ball and can take a .457 if that's all that's available.

I'd try those bullet things one at a time to avoid a chainfire. If they seat really easily and aren't shaving a lead ring I would not use them.

 

[Mulebrain]

I use Crisco to seal the chambers. I will say this however, that if the ball cuts a nice ring and the caps fit well :hmm:

I get so busy loading and shooting, often I just keep forgetting to the grease!

 

[Blizzard of '93]

sometimes I load rb over max charge of powder and a dry felt. then seal the chamber with...toilet ring and 1 pt vaseline.

I WAS going to write that this was a family forum, and you just never know if the littl'uns are reading this as well, so, just for me, could you elucidate on this, ahem, recipe, please?

tac

A plumber you are not. :rotf: :rotf:

When you remove the commode (water closet, AKA Crapper) there will be a wax (petroleum, no longer bees wax) ring in place where it mates up with the sewer pipe flange. They are sold at Home Depot, Lowell's etc, as a new one is required when replacing the unit.

actually being a millwright/welder I've run a good bit of pipe - some of it sewer line and some pipeing for potable water plants (chlorine lines too)

new toilet rings are a synthetic material likely derived from petro and of course vaseline is too. but the combo is better than water pump grease which is another common revolver chamber sealer.
for years I used a parrafin or beeswax mix with lanolin which did well also and for dipping slugs into which negated the need for chamber-top grease.
not near as messy as crisco, water pump grease or vaseline alone.

 

[morehops]

I always seal the chambers with crisco. I know of two instances where folks said that the lead ring proved that the chamber was sealed tight and nothing more was needed. That was until they both had a chain fire. Felt wads are better but don't always seat flat and can leave a gap. They also tend to pick up some powder in the seating process which makes me wonder. I've never known someone to have a chain fire when using wads though.
Keep in mind that safety is a lot like pregnancy.... you either are or your not. :wink:

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

The chambers were probably sealed tight, but the caps were too loose. Chainfires tend to happen due to ill fitting caps being set off by flash from the neighboring chamber.

 

[JPShelton]

On my Pietta 1860, I use CCI Magnum #11 caps, pinched to fit the nipples. Each chamber gets a 30 grain by volume charge of Pyrodex P, a Wonder Wad, a .454" Hornady ball, AND Bore Butter on top of the ball.

The Bore Butter is there to keep the fouling soft so that cleanup is quick and easy.

Plus, I love the minty-fresh smell....

I lube the revolver with Bore Butter, including the lockwork. I know many claim that it is usless as a metal preservative, but I've used it for decades in that role and have no issues with corrosion.

At the range, I use Simple Green to de-gunk.

At home, I use water with Ivory brand soap in it.

The cleaning water is whatever temperature it comes out of the full cold tap at. When I think I've got it clean, the rinse is boiling water. When the water is evaporated and the metal is still warm, I coat it with Bore Butter. Sometimes I use rubbing alchohol immediately before the Bore Butter to make sure I got all the water out. I usually don't.

I shoot 1 to 3 days a week and detail clean and strip the revolver every other outing. There ain't much to the lockwork of an 1860 so it comes apart and goes back together quickly and easily. I probably should do that every time, but I'm lazy. In spite of this, I must be doing something right because aside from holster wear, my 28 year old ASM Colt clone still looks as good as new.

JP