Sear failing on T/C HAWKEN

[drweiler]

My percussion .50 rifle sn12120 is not holding full cock on single stage, a gentle bump or pressure on hammer will drop it on the nipple. I'm not the original owner and live in Phoenix,Az. Suggestions? I think it is a worn sear. Should I order one from T/C or Dixie and replace myself? Send lock to T/C? Anyone know a gun plumber around Phoenix? Thank you and happy Thanksgiving, Don

 

[huntsman247]

Sorry but I can't recall off the top of my head; does the T/C lock have the adjustment screw on the backside of the lock?

 

[mooman76]

Take your lock out and inspect it and see if it holds out of the gun. It may just be binding or something is keeping it from working properly. You should be able to tell if it is worn bad when out of the gun. My mountain rifle would go off if bumped come to find out it was typical of that model because they inlet it too deep and just took a shim to correct it.

 

[galamb]

If you can hold a precision screwdriver you can probably replace a sear - just one screw and as long as you don't touch the screws holding in the tumbler you can't really jigger anything up.

A new sear is under 10 bucks ($8.95 at the Gun Works).

If you remove the lock and put the hammer in the "fired" position you can see the nose of the sear quite clearly. If it's chipped, overly worn etc, it would be quite apparent.

If the tumbler is the part that's shot (goes for about 20 bucks) and you have never disassembled a lock it's perhaps better left to a gunsmith (and at least on this particular item I feel "any" gunshop would be able to do the work for you - wouldn't have to specialize in muzzleloaders).

OR

you could take this opportunity to upgrade...

A brand new L&R RPL lock goes for about $112 bucks - now that may be most of what you paid for a used rifle, but it is a significant quality upgrade over the factory lock (which retails for 100 bucks new)...

 

[Rusty_Nail]

OR

you could take this opportunity to upgrade...

A brand new L&R RPL lock goes for about $112 bucks - now that may be most of what you paid for a used rifle, but it is a significant quality upgrade over the factory lock (which retails for 100 bucks new)...

Where are you finding L&R RPL locks for $112.00? Last one I got was $148.00 plus shipping.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Many times the problem with tumbler/sear troubles is the "contact angle" of the full cock notch and the sear. It should be exactly ninety degrees. Greater than ninety it will push off. (which sounds like your problem) Less than ninety you will have to fight the mainspring to fire. I would suggest you pull the lock and check the angle.. The angle can be changed with a tool stone and some careful work. But be careful you can always take more off but putting steel back on is not easy. :idunno:

 

[galamb]

This is a percussion lock - track of the wolf - $112 - $148 for a flint

 

[tatman731]

I have a lyman trade rifle with basically the same lock. My sear cracked right behind the nose. It allows it to flex when you try to cock to full cock and will not hold.

 

[bpd303]

Something no one has suggested. Has the lock been cleaned, oiled, and all the screws tightened properly (not cranked down by King Kong). Another thing to check is the sear spring, if weak the sear will not engage the tumbler notch properly. Yes do check the engagement with the lock out of the rifle and go from there.

 

[Zonie]

The sear spring is a likely candidate for a problem like this.

It is a small coil spring that pushes the sear against the tumbler. It also has a direct effect on the weight needed to pull the trigger.

If the previous owner tried to reduce the trigger pull by shortening the spring, he/she may have overdone it and shortened it to the point that it doesn't work.

After messing up their gun, I've known people to sell it rather than to try to fix their mistake.

 

[Shotar]

Before you go too far or spend too much money, take out the lock and look at the plate with two screws holding it. These screws can losen with use and hold the geometry of the internal bits under them in the correct positions. Use a screwdriver to tighten these two screws. If this corrects your problem, you are done, reassemble and be well. If not, then it is time to dig deeper and follow the other good advice received here.

 

[mike3132]

Replace the fly.

 

[Dickydalton]

The fly

 

[drweiler]

What a wealth of knowledge and help here. The sear slips off the tumbler when lock removed from rifle as well. I've removed the sear, looks fine to my (uneducated) eyes. About that sear spring, seems the cheapest fix to try first, I'll report any joy. Thanks Gents, Don

 

[drweiler]

The 'fly' would be the free swinging arm that touches the sear in the rear position at full cock when lock removed from rifle? Thanks, Don

 

[drweiler]

The 'fly' would be the free swinging arm that touches the sear in the rear position at full cock when lock removed from rifle? Thanks, Don

Edit: I now understand the fly and it's function, and it seems to work. Don

 

[frogwalking]

If the large spring in the triggers is out of adjustment, it will behave as you are describing "on single stage", that is, without the triggers set. There is an adjustment screw for this spring, and it may need adjusting. If this is the problem, the lock should work properly when removed from the gun.

 

[drweiler]

Thanks all, in the hands of gunsmith at local club. Don

 

[drweiler]

Thanks all, in the hands of gunsmith at local club. Don

 

[necchi]

Tell him to check the rear trigger bar contact/gap for the sear arm when the rear trigger is unset.
This can be seen/checked with the lock out of the stock and the triggers installed.