Sear Pin

[mikee51848]

It appears that the sear pin on my Silar lock is too long, yet I can't find any reference for shortening it. I assume that it can't extend any longer than the trigger cavity is wide so that the trigger contacts it? :hmm: I am confused!

Also, no matter how much inletting black I'm using, I can't get the lock to sit right. There is a "wobble" near the cock or bridle and I need to get the whole lock an 1/8 inch closer to barrel channel and no black is showing up, even if the whole lock is blacker than my cat. This is a Pecatonica rifle if that's a help.

 

[amccall]

What type of gun is it? Is this a new build or a production type gun? If this is a new build is it a pre-shaped stock or is it blank stock that you are carving on. I had this problem when I built my rifle. I ended up grinding a little bit off the sear and carving out a little from the stock so that it would not rub. I ended taking off a 1/16th of an inch off both to give me plenty of clearance. The other thing is sometimes people tighten the side bolts that hold the lock in place to tight. The bolts should be snug but not really tight. :m2c:

 

[rich pierce]

The hole in the lock mortise for the sear arm can extend beyond the trigger mortise. Just don't drill through the stock. No problem shortening the sear arm also.

As far as your lock rocking in the mortise: Try inletting your lockplate alone. Then add parts. Bridle and tumbler first, then mainspring (have the cock installed), then sear and sear spring. This will help you isolate the problem with the inlet.

I'll take a long shot and bet that the cock is rubbing on the lock panel. You're not seeing it because you don't have inletting black on it.

 

[crockett]

Be careful on shortening the sear pin, if you have set triggers the left trigger is what normally pops up and if the sear pin is too short it may slip off the end. A word of advise; normally the manufacturers got it right. Be very careful about making any irreversible changes.

 

[mikee51848]

The hole in the lock mortise for the sear arm can extend beyond the trigger mortise. Just don't drill through the stock. No problem shortening the sear arm also.

This is a kit I'm putting together from Pecatonica. The sear pin extends 1/4 inch beyond the trigger mortise. I had to drill out the hole a little so it would fit. My concern is that there is not enough "play" on the sear pin (because it extends through the mortise) for the trigger to release the cock, hence my question about shortening the pin. Opinions are welcome! :says:

Oh, and I fixed the other problem, thanks.

 

[Randy]

I agree you should take all the lock parts off and inlet just the plate. once the plate is as deep as it should be start adding back the parts and make sure all moving parts can have full travel without rubbing on the inside of the lock mortice. When you add the sear you may need to deepen the hole some. As was previously said just don't go through the other side of the stock. Most of my guns have a hole for the sear that goes beyond the trigger mortice by at least 1/8" or even a 1/4". The key to getting the lock in right is to take it apart and inlet just one piece at a time. You sometimes have to look real close to find where it needs clearance, even when the whole lock is covered with inletting black.

 

[Herb]

I agree with Rich, the cock hits on the wood and that has to be relieved. The advice about inletting the plate alone and then adding the parts is how I do it, too. There is no need to have the sear bar longer than the centerline of the stock, above the trigger bars. I believe I've cut off a couple dozen of them, usually 1/8 to 1/4 inch, every single lock. You don't want that sear hole any deeper than necessary, it weakens the stock.