Sear Spring Pops Out

[Manchac]

I have a flintlock musket and the sear spring occasionally pops out, usually while removing the lock from the musket or testing it outside the musket. There is a rectangular tab on the lock plate side of the spring and a slot in the lock plate to receive this tab. The slot does not seem to be a clean rectangular, more like a V, so cleaning up the slot should help. Also the tab is not aligned directly with the slot when the sear spring screw is in place so bending the screw sleeve on the end of the spring into alignment should help too. Has anyone had this issue and have any thoughts or suggestions, e.g., how to make the small slot more rectangular as it goes down into the plate? Thanks!

 

[plmeek]

It might be easier to grind the tab on the sear spring to match the slot in the lock plate. In other words, knock the corners off the tab and make it rounded.

 

[Artificer]

I have a flintlock musket and the sear spring occasionally pops out, usually while removing the lock from the musket or testing it outside the musket. There is a rectangular tab on the lock plate side of the spring and a slot in the lock plate to receive this tab. The slot does not seem to be a clean rectangular, more like a V, so cleaning up the slot should help. Also the tab is not aligned directly with the slot when the sear spring screw is in place so bending the screw sleeve on the end of the spring into alignment should help too. Has anyone had this issue and have any thoughts or suggestions, e.g., how to make the small slot more rectangular as it goes down into the plate? Thanks!

Over the years, I ran across this on lower grade Italian UnCivil War period locks.

The way the old boys made that slot was with a die sinkers chisel. However, most of us don't have one of those or don't want to spend the money.

I've successfully deepened and "squared" that slot with needle files, though that is the slow way.

Since I had LOADS of practice with my Dumore Handy Grinder, I saved the cutting discs when they got small and used them to cut/lengthen/deepen the slot. However, that is NOT something I would recommend to most hobbyists.

Gus

Gus

 

[ZUG]

I use a Dremel grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut the slot - an engraving tool can also be used . The spring should lay flat on the lock plate when the screw is installed if not the spring's tab will rock in and out of the slot.

 

[Manchac]

Thanks for the responses. I ended up cleaning out the slot with some very small files and repositioning the sleeve for the screw to stop the rocking as the screw is tightened, and it seems much better.

To install the spring I leave the screw a bit loose with the tab off of the plate, then slide the tab across the plate and into the slot as I compress the spring, and then I fully tighten the screw. And I do the opposite to remove the spring. Is this the proper technique?

 

[ord sgt]

To install the spring I leave the screw a bit loose with the tab off of the plate, then slide the tab across the plate and into the slot as I compress the spring, and then I fully tighten the screw. And I do the opposite to remove the spring. Is this the proper technique?

That works for me. I have taken locks apart many, many times and found the way you describe, to be the best and easiest.

 

[Pete G]

Thanks for the responses. I ended up cleaning out the slot with some very small files and repositioning the sleeve for the screw to stop the rocking as the screw is tightened, and it seems much better.

To install the spring I leave the screw a bit loose with the tab off of the plate, then slide the tab across the plate and into the slot as I compress the spring, and then I fully tighten the screw. And I do the opposite to remove the spring. Is this the proper technique?

Yes.

 

[FlinterNick]

Popping out might mean the screw hole is too far away…. Or the lug is not place right

 

[Erwan]

how to make the small slot more rectangular as it goes down into the plate?

If the fault is on the lock plate do it with a small chisel for steel and if the default is on the spring do it with a small file...
You can also make a spring for replacement with a piece of steel saw or strong clock spring (warm formed and not too hard tempered), it is really simple to do and largely sufficient for a provisional sear repair...