Searching for the right tomahawk

[Pilgrim]

I don't see authenticity as one of your criteria... It appears you are looking for a purely functional tool. You have a lot of options.

I do see a possible conflict, in #2 and #5. By "firesteel," I'm assuming you mean a ferro rod. If you are thinking of striking an actual flint against your axe, your axe would be the firesteel. Some clarification would help. Anyway, you need pretty hard steel to scrape a ferro rod, and the harder the steel, the harder it is to sharpen. I like to be able to sharpen my axes with a file. This puts a good woodcutting edge on it. If I want to shave, I use a razor.

Modern (late 19th - early 20th century) axe design evolved for a reason. In my opinion, based on personal experience with various axes, hatchets, and tomahawks, classic early modern axes simply work better than tomahawks for camp chores. However, I like tomahawks for the same reason I would rather shoot a muzzleloader than a .30-30.

"Throwing Hawks" are a late 20th century phenomenon. People on the frontier absolutely threw axes and tomahawks; this is well documented. However, it was some time in the mid-20th century when the NMLRA codified the rules for competitive tomahawk throwing, and the "throwing hawk" was developed to stay within the codified guidelines while still pushing the limits of what is allowed. If you look at an old-time trade axe, like this one...

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... you'll see that the topline of the blade is level, and the bottom line runs straight. The width of the cutting edge is variable. In contrast, the topline of a "throwing hawk" flares upward, to maximize the width of the cutting edge (I think the rules allow 4"), and the bottom line is curved to take off weight. Also look at the handle. The trade axe has a sturdy handle, and this one actually has a knob carved on the end, to facilitate a better grip. On the other hand, a throwing hawk handle is tapered down to what I consider an uncomfortably small diameter to enable a clean release in throwing at a target. I would suggest that for your purposes, it would be best to steer clear of throwing hawks.

For driving stakes, you'll want a flat or hammer poll. This picture shows a Shrew Camp Axe that I bought from the late Ron LaClair some years ago.

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The handle is straight, not curved. The appearance of a curve is just a photographic artifact. Anyway, it does have a nice, beefy handle so you can get a good grip. The head weighs about a pound, and the total length of mine is 16-1/2", with a 2-7/8" cutting edge. You can see it has a "hammer poll." I have not tried it on a ferro rod, nor have I tried knocking sparks off of it with a flint, so I can't comment on that. I think Ron designed these and marketed them from his archery shop, but they were actually made by H&B Forge, and the specs on this axe are very close to the H&B forge Medium Camp Hawk. These cost right at $100 now, but I didn't pay near that much for mine. They have really gone up. However, this is a genuine, high-quality hand-forged axe, and it looks exactly like an original from New Mexico that I saw pictured in a book I have. It doesn't chop or split wood as well as a more modern design, but it works pretty well for all of that, and it is a mighty handy little tool, while still being traditional. I would recommend it.

If you are less concerned about authenticity or tradition, I might also recommend one of these:

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These little axes are both called "Flying Foxes." I don't know if these are legal under NMLRA tomahawk-throwing rules or not. The heads on these two are identical, weighing about 1-3/4 pounds, with a cutting edge just a hair under 4". The only difference is the type of handle. For general use, I prefer the straight handle, but that's just personal preference. The axe with the curved handle is about 15-1/2" long, while the straight-handled one is about 20-3/4" in total length. I have not used either of these a lot, but I have used them some. I got mine from Whiskey River Art and Trading. I bought the straight one when they had a sale, and then a little later they had some kind of deal that included a free Flying Fox. I requested the curved handle model for my freebie. These are made by Council Tools and are priced under $60.

Strangely enough, the curved-handle Flying Fox was designed for throwing in modern-day axe-throwing competition. I understand there are pubs or venues in a lot of cities where people can go to compete or just try it out. I've never tried it. You get a lot of young adults together in a confined space, drinking beer and throwing axes... What could possibly go wrong?

Best regards,

Notchy Bob

Wow, a great education. You're correct, I am using the phrase "fire steel" as an adjective for fire striking, including a Ferro rod. I know I am violating many rules of tradition, but I am interested in functionality and weight for packing. Thank you.

 

[Nav]

You don’t want a blade that going to suffer repeated impact being hardened enough to be a good fire steel. When I was young I had a hatchet that I sharpened shaving sharp, and it became dull after two blows, and I thought "This won't do". I took a torch to the head and heated it red hot, and then quenched it. A file skated. Then I sharpened it back up. A chip broke off the blade on the first swing, and by the third of fourth it was ruint.

I get hardening a tomahawk for chopping living flesh (and thus it would work as a fire steel), but it's not going to work for an impact tool for cutting wood. At least not one made of steel. The mild steel of an axe head is for ductility and strength on impacts rather than sharpness and holding an edge for "cutting". Sharpening an axe any more than a gentle convex grind is a waste and doesn't do anything. I would think that sharpening a hawk for battle they simply expected it to dull up quickly, and that it would require immediate resharpening. If you are going to harden it I would not use it on wood speaking from personal experience.

 

[sturmkatze]

It all depends what you want. My first one, when I was a teen in the early 80’s was a one that I am sure was made in the sub continent. Most of mine have been. They throw fine. I bought another for our Roman camp to make kindling. It hammers stuff too. Recently, I got a modded cold steel one from my friend @BlackpowderBill. Haven’t thrown it yet. We shall see. I haven’t had a throwing pad for years. I feel the urge again.

 

[Pratt]

I don't hammer with a hawk. The eye is just not rugged enough. Try James Townsend and Sons in Pierceton, IN. They have several variety of hawks.

 

[Pilgrim]

I don't hammer with a hawk. The eye is just not rugged enough. Try James Townsend and Sons in Pierceton, IN. They have several variety of hawks.

Thank you I will.

 

[The Appalachian]

Mark McCoun out of Dewitt Virginia is a maker of FINE quality hand forged tomahawks and knives. I think he's on ebay. He's on ticktock and facebook too. Last I knew he didn't take custom orders from the general public but he makes several styles you can choose from. I like his eastern woodland pipe hawk style.

On a fire steel, I strongly suggest buying an actual fire steel to go with your flint.

 

[SOLANCO]

If I am carrying a hawk and a knife then the hawk is likely my primary, first, go to weapon. The additional reach and mechanical advantage of the haft are hard to fore go unless you are cutting sleeping throats.
Which is better at camp chores is I think dependent on the chore and the camper. Frankly if you can also carry a skinner and a decent axe then the hawk could be a vain luxury.

 

[SOLANCO]

I apologize. I put this post in the wrong group. Should have been in the accouterments group. If Admin could move it I would really appreciate it.

I'm interested in a tomahawk but I am cautious about pulling the trigger. My major concerns are listed below. I have looked at Amazon, Cold Steel, Crazy Crow, and TOTW just to name a few. Any suggestions from the more experienced?

1. It will be used often in camp and around the house.
2. Must be easily sharpened
3. Be able to drive a stake
4. Shave a feather stick
5..Strike a firesteel.

There is a difference between a hawk and a camp axe/hatchet. You want the latter.

 

[Pratt]

I must agree with Solanco. You want a camp axe. The role of the Hawk is light weight. Plumb is a good brand of axe. Even here there s a difference between hand axes. What is your main need for your axe? Think it over. The hawk is not your answer.
Scoutmaster of 12 years.

 

[Pilgrim]

I must agree with Solanco. You want a camp axe. The role of the Hawk is light weight. Plumb is a good brand of axe. Even here there s a difference between hand axes. What is your main need for your axe? Think it over. The hawk is not your answer.
Scoutmaster of 12 years.

Thanks for the feedback. I can find a good camp axe easier than a good hawk.