Set trigger stopping at half ****

[Ontario47]

Send the lock and trigger asm to TOW for evaluation and a new bridle. I assume you bought the kit from them, and assume you have enough work on the rest of the kit to keep you busy till the parts are returned.

 

[billraby]

This should explain it

 

[Grenadier1758]

Well I got the trigger to kind of work. If I set the trigger it will go to half and full ****. Pull the trigger and it works. Try to **** without the trigger set, it will not even try to half or full ****. TOW said to send the lock to them or contact L&R. I’m not sure what to do. I feel real close to figuring this thing out. Some filing and sanding on my part. Also some screw tightness. That seemed to help with the lock out of the stock. I also got a good look at the double set trigger in the stock. I shimmed the back of the trigger spring so it would push down more on the set trigger. It made it fire without snagging in half **** but it made it not **** at all without setting the trigger. Am I on the right track here? Is my cracked bridle a killer?

Thanks, Jon

When the triggers are unset, the levers are higher than they are when set. Since they are higher, the top of the trigger levers are interfering with the sear lever. To get the lock to cycle through half **** and full ****, you will need to take some metal from the top of the trigger levers.

Remove the lock and look through the hole in the lock mortise for the release sear. You will likely see both the set trigger lever and the front trigger lever. Set the triggers and the tops of the levers will be lowered. Your recourse is to lower the interference from the trigger levers by putting shims under the trigger plate or take metal from the tops of the trigger levers.

Your issues are all about how the lock, trigger and stock are integrated together. Sending the lock in will probably correct the cracked bridle issue. You would need to add the stock to the package to get you cocking issue addressed.

 

[JonBishop]

Thanks for all the help fellas. I truly mean that.

When the triggers are unset, the levers are higher than they are when set. Since they are higher, the top of the trigger levers are interfering with the sear lever. To get the lock to cycle through half **** and full ****, you will need to take some metal from the top of the trigger levers.

Remove the lock and look through the hole in the lock mortise for the release sear. You will likely see both the set trigger lever and the front trigger lever. Set the triggers and the tops of the levers will be lowered. Your recourse is to lower the interference from the trigger levers by putting shims under the trigger plate or take metal from the tops of the trigger levers.

Your issues are all about how the lock, trigger and stock are integrated together. Sending the lock in will probably correct the cracked bridle issue. You would need to add the stock to the package to get you cocking issue addressed.

Yes sir, I agree. The fault lies in me. The cracked bridle is my fault. And most the rest I think. Billraby, I will be watching the rest of those videos. I am going to send the lock back. I’m pretty sure it’s on my dime though. I let them know of all the work I did. I’m not knocking TOW. I already want to build another rifle. I’m eying some of their other kits. Thanks again everyone! I’ll be back with some more newbie questions later. I’m already getting ready for my next one. That will be another post. This is a great forum. You guys are very helpful and don’t look down on people new to this. That is very appreciative to me. Even though I feel like a dummy and you guys know I’m a dummy, you don’t make me feel like such a dummy.

Thanks, Jon

 

[pooch156]

I bought a L&R Manton lock about 15 years ago. Had to have it reworked to make it function properly. Swore that I'd never buy another . . . but I did. I bought an L&R Bedford lock. Big mistake. I'm using a Davis double set trigger and it's smacking the heck out of the sear but . . . it's stopping at halfcock! The fly is not dropping down. Called L&R a few minutes ago. They told me that I could send it to them or they could send me a new sear & fly. I opted for them to send the parts. I will not take chance with them again!

 

[JonBishop]

I bought a L&R Manton lock about 15 years ago. Had to have it reworked to make it function properly. Swore that I'd never buy another . . . but I did. I bought an L&R Bedford lock. Big mistake. I'm using a Davis double set trigger and it's smacking the heck out of the sear but . . . it's stopping at halfcock! The fly is not dropping down. Called L&R a few minutes ago. They told me that I could send it to them or they could send me a new sear & fly. I opted for them to send the parts. I will not take chance with them again!

Hi pooch156. I sent my lock to L&R and they fixed my lock issues. However I still had trigger issues. I got mine working correctly by adjusting the little set screw for the trigger spring. This took some trial and error. It seemed to be a non issue at first because the trigger and lock pretty much acted the same regardless of set screw position. But upon adding the wood screw to the trigger plate it acted like a totally different animal. It needed some pressure on the spring to keep the sear a bit lower. I think that’s what cured it? I could be way off though. Anyway it works properly now. Hope this might help.

Jon

 

[pooch156]

Problem is the rear trigger bar. Notice how it sticks up when it is not set and sits flat when it is set. That is the problem. When rear trigger is not set, the rear trigger bar is sticking up and holding up the sear. When it is set it is laying flat and not pushing up the sear. What you need to do is to cut away the rear trigger bar until it is not making contact with the sear when it is not set.

Bill, I'm having the same issues with a L&R Bedford lock. My trigger bar is clear of the sear but . . . the **** is stopping at half ****. The fly is installed correctly. The plate side of the fly is ground flat while the tumbler side of the fly is rough. The plate side of the tumbler looks like it was cut out of a piece of steel with a grinder! L&R is sending a new sear and fly as I speak. One can only hope!

 

[Grenadier1758]

I do know that the L&R locks are very particular about the orientation of the fly. Backwards, the fly will stop the sear at the half **** notch. Spent a fair amount of time to get my L&R Manton lock working good. For me, it's a very reliable lock.

I have the L&R late English lock in my Derringer rifle. It has gotten to be pretty good as it has been used. One of my faster locks.

 

[Pete G]

L&R seems to give good service on returns; too bad they don't do as well on initial QA.

 

[user 34300]

"it's smacking the heck out of the sear but . . . it's stopping at halfcock! "

Part of the problem with L&R locks is the sear spring, it is way to strong. They also cut he sear spring too short thus giving more mechanical advantage on the sear than is reasonable. I've used about 10 L& R locks over the years. I always put their sear spring in the junk box after maker a proper one.

Optional step....If you can, make a sear screw that actually fits the sear. As made, they are super sloppy. You will never get a decent pull as made.

Make sure the fly is working. First, install a wooden flint. Take the lock out of the gun. **** it. Hold back on the **** and trip the sear with you thumb. Let the **** down slowly. Take pressure off the sear bar. Continue to let the **** down slowly. The **** should ride over the half **** fly with a slight bump.

I have found that L&R flys tear up the sear. This seems to be due to the gorilla strength sear spring and the rough as-cast parts.

Regarding the issue about having to set the trigger to **** the rifle.... The rear trigger is sticking up to high. Assuming it is not inletted to deep it needs to be adjusted. There should be a mainspring travel limit screw. IT will be in the trigger plate behind the rear trigger. Screw that sucker in a ways. The rear trigger only need a short push. It should be acting on momentum only when it whacks the sear bar.

 

[shootrj2003]

I built a flint last year with an L&R lock,it was much better finished than that lock,I did have a sear problem ,sent it back they fixed it and never said diddly about the hole i drilled for mounting it,quick service,about 4-5 days from when I shipped it to its return fixed. ,NO complaints there.