set trigger

[user 56046]

So I am finally back in the muzzleloader business after a long hiatus. At one time I owned a T/C Hawkins rifle. Long story but it turned into a wood stove. I just received my new rifle which has a set trigger. It's a Siler Percussion lock, so I assume it's a Siler trigger also? So before I foul with it, how does the adjustment work. Turn the small screen in to lessen trigger pull. Trigger has a hefty pull right now. I attached a photo so you knowledgeable guys will know exactly what to do.

 

[nick_1]

once you get it set the way you like I highly recommend super gluing the set screws. Both of them Both my TC hawken and traditions trapper have had nasty AD's when the set screws loosened up to the point that the hammer would drop while setting the trigger.

 

[user 56046]

Sound advise for sure.
But is anyone familiar with this trigger and how to adjust it? Do you adjust while the hammer is down? I assume turning the screw in lightens the trigger pull?

 

[BS2366]

Check out this video

 

[BS2366]

 

[nick_1]

on my TC hawken and trapper I adusted with hammer at half cock testing trigger by setting the trigger and then pulling it while in half cock.

 

[BS2366]

I used a little bit of Teflon tape on the threads of the set screw. It was extremely loose and I knew it would turn on it's on.

 

[Ed C.]

Three screws to adjust on trigger assembly. The internal screw on the large flat spring will adjust the pull needed to set the rear trigger. It must be loose enough to be able to pull the rear trigger but tight enough to trip the sear on the lock when the front trigger is pulled. The next screw forward of that located externally is a fine adjustment to that spring. Screw it in and it will lighten the pull on the rear (set) trigger but again you must be sure it will trip the sear. The third screw located externally between the triggers will determine the the amount of travel of the front trigger needed to fire the gun. Screw it in for less travel. Sometimes the manufactures will purposely make that screw too short to take full advantage of having a very light front trigger for liability reasons. You may have to replace it with a longer screw to get a true hair trigger pull. Once you find your setting use some wicking type (green) loctite to hold it in place. Or whatever else you choose to secure it.

 

[Ed C.]

on my TC hawken and trapper I adusted with hammer at half cock testing trigger by setting the trigger and then pulling it while in half cock.

I know that TC has printed instructions to make the adjustments at half cock but I think it was determined that was printed in error and damage has been done to guns using that method. Here is a quote from this forum. " DO NOT adjust the triggers with the rifle on half-cock! That is what breaks tumblers. At one time TC recommended to adjust them this way but quit when they saw the amount of warranty work they were doing on locks with broken half-cock notches."

 

[nick_1]

I definitely followed the instructions on my trapper. Unfortunately I lost that booklet in my move. The locktight is critical. Isa won't even touch the muzzleloaders anymore because my set screws loosened up and the trapper fired when she set the trigger. Hole in barn.. my internal screw loosened up the other day and required resetting but I was hesitant to super glue inside my lock but now am second guessing the decision.

 

[Mr. Flintlock]

I set the trigger and then turn in the screw until the trigger fires. Then you can back off the screw until you get the adjustment you feel comfortable with.

 

[user 56046]

Thanks for all of your replies, I appreciate your effort

 

[Grenadier1758]

I would use blue Locktite as this holds well, but it is not permanent.

@NoMansLand's triggers will either be Davis or L&R. Maybe Chamber's triggers as Siler didn't make triggers IIRC.

I believe there is a good thread in the General Muzzleloading Forum, Useful Information Thread on adjusting set triggers. Do put a piece of aquarium tubing on the nipple just a little longer than the cone or a wooden "flint" in the jaws when adjusting set triggers or dry firing to prevent damage to the lock or nipple.

NoMansLand, welcome back to traditional muzzleloading.