I will be selling 3 of my guns and am not quite sure where to set the price. All 3 were built by me and have a few flaws but are all built from quality parts and function properly. I figure minimum price would be the cost of the components.To those that have sold a gun how did you set the price ?
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Setting the price
- Thread starter JohnN
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There are many factors that determine the price of something for sale. Selling a MLer that you built for a fair price is dependent on the components used, quality of work, style and "eye appeal" and how well one's work is known.
Comparing your MLers to those already "on the market" is a good start. Looking at the MLers on TOW's consignment sales or some other sites that have MLers for sale might give you an idea of prices.
Posting some good pics on this site might engender some opinions.
Although you did build the 3 MLers and possibly have some attachment to them, this shouldn't be a factor in determining the prices....a prospective buyer won't pay for "your feelings".
To arrive at a price that will sell your MLers requires research and a realistic approach......Fred
Comparing your MLers to those already "on the market" is a good start. Looking at the MLers on TOW's consignment sales or some other sites that have MLers for sale might give you an idea of prices.
Posting some good pics on this site might engender some opinions.
Although you did build the 3 MLers and possibly have some attachment to them, this shouldn't be a factor in determining the prices....a prospective buyer won't pay for "your feelings".
To arrive at a price that will sell your MLers requires research and a realistic approach......Fred
don hepler
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Well spoken.....great advice. Nothing I can add.
Col. Batguano
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I would only consider selling something to which I had no further emotional attachment. Remember, the sale is forever, so once it's gone, it's gone. If you can live with that, then you're ready to sell it.
galamb
58 Cal.
I have sold a few "self builds".
Since my name is not recognized and while my work is ok it's certainly not "artistic", I only "hope" to get the cost of the parts back (or just about) and essentially nothing for my labour.
I build and shoot the rifle so it's being sold as "used" (helps with liability since I'm not selling a new product - there is some obligation on the part of the buyer to ensure it's safe to use).
That in itself knocks the price down a bit (to a lot), but I only sell to help acquire parts for my next build.
You can price higher and haggle. But if you get no interest you have to decide whether to drastically slash your asking price or simply keep what you have - I won't sell just to get rid of it.
If you figure a price that you won't sell below you probably won't be disappointed IF you do sell.
Since my name is not recognized and while my work is ok it's certainly not "artistic", I only "hope" to get the cost of the parts back (or just about) and essentially nothing for my labour.
I build and shoot the rifle so it's being sold as "used" (helps with liability since I'm not selling a new product - there is some obligation on the part of the buyer to ensure it's safe to use).
That in itself knocks the price down a bit (to a lot), but I only sell to help acquire parts for my next build.
You can price higher and haggle. But if you get no interest you have to decide whether to drastically slash your asking price or simply keep what you have - I won't sell just to get rid of it.
If you figure a price that you won't sell below you probably won't be disappointed IF you do sell.
longcruise
70 Cal.
Put it on one of the auction sites loaded with pics, a thorough description of the parts used, long term auction and no reserve.
Guest
Flehto gave you the best advice. Compare your work to others and set a price. Post a classified.
Pete G
76 Cal.
The TOW site is a good reference, but they add a consignment fee. I think I remember reading that it is somewhere in the neighborhood of 30%, but that also includes the cost for the pics and the writeup. Deduct that amount and you should be in the ballpark for a private sale.
Early on sold 4 LRs through TOW's consignment sales and a 33% markup was included in TOW's posted price. As it turned out, the 33% that I didn't get was a bargain because of the advertising and exposure.
My next LRs were sold by me on various sites and sold at the same price as on TOW's site....only w/ these I realized every penny......Fred
My next LRs were sold by me on various sites and sold at the same price as on TOW's site....only w/ these I realized every penny......Fred
longcruise
70 Cal.
The sale price in a market with good exposure to a broad spectrum of buyers should represent actual value. Deducting somebody else's 33% selling costs from your item is giving a 33% discount. Why would you do that?
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Leave them out every day for awhile. Then go shoot them once more, then pick if you want to let them go.
I regretted several of my sales of stuff I have spent a lot of time fixing up. Old boats and cars in my case, atleast so far.
Is one of them your first build? Don't be afraid to post them here.
This thread really needs some pictures.....
Also, in the olden days, muzzleloaders did not wander too far from their origin too often. Put up a flyer at local muzzleloader events and maybe leave one at the local gun shop.
Basic builds with little frills or unkown builder go for $1000-1500 range on gunbroker. I have seen a few in the $700 to 800 range too. I'm no wood grading expert, but almost all of these builds have very stripy wood of either uniform or very nicely shaped non uniform grains. Not sure about muzzleloaders, but summer to fall is prime time. Just like selling a snowmobile or speedboat before the season starts.
A retired guy near me builds 3-5 a year and loves his jewelers saw and inlay wire on his builds. He says he averages about 2-3 dollars an hour in labor prices. He pretty much builds 2 or 3 guns so he can build one of his own and buy some components to keep it firing.
Another guy makes possible bags so he can buy his muzzleloaders there.
I regretted several of my sales of stuff I have spent a lot of time fixing up. Old boats and cars in my case, atleast so far.
Is one of them your first build? Don't be afraid to post them here.
This thread really needs some pictures.....
Also, in the olden days, muzzleloaders did not wander too far from their origin too often. Put up a flyer at local muzzleloader events and maybe leave one at the local gun shop.
Basic builds with little frills or unkown builder go for $1000-1500 range on gunbroker. I have seen a few in the $700 to 800 range too. I'm no wood grading expert, but almost all of these builds have very stripy wood of either uniform or very nicely shaped non uniform grains. Not sure about muzzleloaders, but summer to fall is prime time. Just like selling a snowmobile or speedboat before the season starts.
A retired guy near me builds 3-5 a year and loves his jewelers saw and inlay wire on his builds. He says he averages about 2-3 dollars an hour in labor prices. He pretty much builds 2 or 3 guns so he can build one of his own and buy some components to keep it firing.
Another guy makes possible bags so he can buy his muzzleloaders there.
Stringbean
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I agree with Jerry. I have a friend of mine that makes quite a healthy living. When asked how he acquired such a well paying job he replied: "It's not what you're worth, it's how well you can negotiate". What is it worth to you? If no takers then lower the price or keep it.
String
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i have seen the master negotiator in action, namely SWMBO... she could bring a Persian rug merchant to his knees (in fact, i have seen her negotiate with a Persian rug merchant, over the cost or a Persian rug, and although the experience did not bring him to his knees, it nearly left him in tears). going car shopping with her is downright unsporting.
her 'secret?' ... there are many aspect: body language, inflection, facial expression, hand gestures and so on, but the one thing that sets the true master apart from us hackers is this:
you must be completely willing to walk away from the deal at any point up to (and including) the point where the money comes out. if you can't or won't go that far, you're outclassed.
my two cents worth :wink:
her 'secret?' ... there are many aspect: body language, inflection, facial expression, hand gestures and so on, but the one thing that sets the true master apart from us hackers is this:
you must be completely willing to walk away from the deal at any point up to (and including) the point where the money comes out. if you can't or won't go that far, you're outclassed.
my two cents worth :wink:
I don't know your work and to be honest, the quality of the work is actually one of the lesser contributors to what something will sell for, assuming it isn't an ugly hack job.
There are a few universal truths. You can come down, but you can't go up from the asking price. Marketing is the single biggest factor affecting price. A top quality written, extensive description, see TOW for great examples, along with quality pictures with sharp focus that are properly lit are the key minimums.
Putting it for sale in front of the right audience makes all the difference. Not to deprecate the members of this forum but there don't appear to be very many multi-millionaires on here. To most on here $5,000 is a LOT of money, to a millionaire it is pocket change and is well within their impulse buy zone (I like it, I want it, I buy it. No further study required). Many of the members build their own, most have come across unbelievable deals, and most know intimately the price of parts, and have study the works of masters, so we are generally the wrong target audience to extract the maximum price from.
To get the most money for what you sell, sell it where there is large interest and very well healed buyers. It is why Christie's Auction house in New York, Geneva, Hong Kong gets far higher prices for what they sell than the local Phoenix auction would ever realise on exactly the same item.
The final part is being willing to wait to get the price you want.
I will rarely negotiate much on stuff I am selling (I set what I believe is a reasonable price for what I am selling and am not prepared to sell below that, but I also don't need the sale money to live on or buy the next project). I will always negotiate on things I buy because most people list high expecting too come down, some as much as 60%. I believe this to be a poor marketing strategy in the long run. It is similar to what retail has done in teaching consumers to never buy anything unless it is on deep discount sale.
Let us know how you make out.
There are a few universal truths. You can come down, but you can't go up from the asking price. Marketing is the single biggest factor affecting price. A top quality written, extensive description, see TOW for great examples, along with quality pictures with sharp focus that are properly lit are the key minimums.
Putting it for sale in front of the right audience makes all the difference. Not to deprecate the members of this forum but there don't appear to be very many multi-millionaires on here. To most on here $5,000 is a LOT of money, to a millionaire it is pocket change and is well within their impulse buy zone (I like it, I want it, I buy it. No further study required). Many of the members build their own, most have come across unbelievable deals, and most know intimately the price of parts, and have study the works of masters, so we are generally the wrong target audience to extract the maximum price from.
To get the most money for what you sell, sell it where there is large interest and very well healed buyers. It is why Christie's Auction house in New York, Geneva, Hong Kong gets far higher prices for what they sell than the local Phoenix auction would ever realise on exactly the same item.
The final part is being willing to wait to get the price you want.
I will rarely negotiate much on stuff I am selling (I set what I believe is a reasonable price for what I am selling and am not prepared to sell below that, but I also don't need the sale money to live on or buy the next project). I will always negotiate on things I buy because most people list high expecting too come down, some as much as 60%. I believe this to be a poor marketing strategy in the long run. It is similar to what retail has done in teaching consumers to never buy anything unless it is on deep discount sale.
Let us know how you make out.
Flehto.
To a degree I agree with you. I don't love guns but I love beauty. That is why I make the kind I make. On the other hand, if you don't love guns and you don't love or need money then just give it to someone who does. Why worry about the price.
A plain functional gun isn't worth anymore money than the cheapest other plain functional gun. As a result many of the builders today are in competition with CVA, Cabelas or Walmart. There is no way they can win that battle. I found out the hard way. If one wants to make good money at this he has to get out of that bracket.
I banged my head against the wall on this for 35 years. People with money to burn do not want a common gun. They are looking for one that nobody else has and probably can't get. To some of them it is an ego thing. The price is usually of no concern. I have seen people pay the price of a nice house for a gun. Most gun makers today are not willing to put forth the effort to learn or invest what it takes to get into that field or maybe their wives won't let them. Consequently it is a super field to be in with little or no competition. Back to the original subject. If you can't get what you want for your gun it's probably not worth it. The time of year is a factor.
To a degree I agree with you. I don't love guns but I love beauty. That is why I make the kind I make. On the other hand, if you don't love guns and you don't love or need money then just give it to someone who does. Why worry about the price.
A plain functional gun isn't worth anymore money than the cheapest other plain functional gun. As a result many of the builders today are in competition with CVA, Cabelas or Walmart. There is no way they can win that battle. I found out the hard way. If one wants to make good money at this he has to get out of that bracket.
I banged my head against the wall on this for 35 years. People with money to burn do not want a common gun. They are looking for one that nobody else has and probably can't get. To some of them it is an ego thing. The price is usually of no concern. I have seen people pay the price of a nice house for a gun. Most gun makers today are not willing to put forth the effort to learn or invest what it takes to get into that field or maybe their wives won't let them. Consequently it is a super field to be in with little or no competition. Back to the original subject. If you can't get what you want for your gun it's probably not worth it. The time of year is a factor.
Col. Batguano
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Jerry is right on. I have little to add to that other than; one price tells everyone you own it. Another price sells it eventually, and the next price sells it right away. Decide within those where you want to be.
I actually tend to think for the $3000 and under guns that March-April is the best time of year to sell guns. Tax refund season and people have a hole burning in their pockets. Big buck stuff (>$10,000) is much less seasonal.
I actually tend to think for the $3000 and under guns that March-April is the best time of year to sell guns. Tax refund season and people have a hole burning in their pockets. Big buck stuff (>$10,000) is much less seasonal.
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