sewing technique for pucker toe moccasins

[JohnnyO]

I cut out my pattern for center seam moccasins and have practiced on some scrap leather and I can't figure out the pucker toe technique.
I have looked at http://southernindiandept.org/mocpattern.htm
and http://www.nativetech.org/clothing/moccasin/mocinstr.html

Nothing really says what this "puckering" or "folding" is, I have just sewn the toes of one set with a tight blanket stitch and it didn't pucker at all, just looks like a normal seam...so what do I do?

 

[paulvallandigham]

Pull the stitches tighter. If I can make the tongue of my boots " pucker " over time, of wearing the boots under a tightly laced boot, I can't think of anything else needed to get those edges to " pucker ", too.

You did stitch the seam as shown in the diagram, no? Its should remind you of lacing your boot or shoes.

 

Pucker toe lacing is in-out-over-in-out-over

then when you pull the lace it gathers the seam into a wavy pucker with the lace hidden.

The best instructions I have seen are on the Nativetech site.

 

[JohnnyO]

still doesn't look so hot, and I tore the leather pulling the sinew out of the first one...oy...think I might just buy a pair...save me from some more pokes with the needle :shake:

 

[paulvallandigham]

Get a diamond shaped needle, from the suppliers, or from an upholstery supply store, for sewing leather, Round holes will tear, and pull out. Triangle-shaped ones don't.

There are two different lacing patterns commonly used for boots, and shoes. I have used both. The in and over pattern is most commonly seen on dress shoes. The over and cross is used on boots. I never learned why.

Don't give up so easily. Almost always the first of any thing you make is a learning experience. The next one gets you close, and after that, you are a seasoned " pro ". :rotf: :thumbsup:

 

[Birdman]

Johnny put a wooden match stick between each stich to pucker out the leather, as ya tighten it up slide out the match stick at the last minute n tighten the stich down tight, might help out some, the pucker comes from the leather buldging out a bit with each stitch if this makes sense

 

[crockett]

I may be wrong but if you are making a center seam moccasin WITHOUT A VAMP- like the ones shown in the two sites you posted (eastern woodland style)- just sew them up. I don't think there is any puckering required.
Puckering is done when two pieces must be attached where one piece is longer than the other. This could be on the vamp toe type moccasin where material has to be gathered from the sole in order to fit around the top or vamp of the moccasin. Some clothing, like a box shirt, requires puckering around the sleeve/ shoulder or the sleeve/cuff attachments.
On moccasins the puckering is usually "eyeballed". Let's take the common moccasin, the one with a sole that comes over the foot to the vamp, you may use an awl to space the holes twice as far apart as the holes are spaced on the vamp.
You then crunch the leather up as you sew, most folks use a whip stitch but a running stitch also works.
On clothing a drawstring technique is used, the longer surface has a running stitch that is temporary(basting) with evenly spaced holes, the thread is then drawn up, compressing the material until the drawn thread equals the distance on the shorter piece. That method creates very evenly spaced puckering.
I hope I haven't been too confusing, if you have more questions just ask.