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Sharping gouges
- Thread starter Mongo40
- Start date
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I don't know if I get them "scary sharp", but sharp enough to do anything I need. When I'm working on a gun, sharpening is a constant thing, so I just hit chisels and gouges now and then, but seldom sit down and give them a razor's edge.
I mostly use a very fine stone that is made by Fiskar's, you'll find it where they sell Fiskar scissors. I don't mess with water or oil, just clean up the stone when it looks cruddy. I hold it in my hand and make a diagonal forward/rocking stroke on the edge of the gouge, all in one motion. The gouge is moving forward, cutting into the stone, and at the same time twisting from one side to the other. A forward/rolling motion that ends up being a diagonal stroke across the stone. Then I look to see if the angle was good by visually checking the edge. Then I LIGHTLY hit the inside curve with a narrow ceramic rod, rolling it in my fingers and moving it forward and from side to side, again, all in one motion. Short strokes, the rod probably doesn't travel more than an inch. Bill
I mostly use a very fine stone that is made by Fiskar's, you'll find it where they sell Fiskar scissors. I don't mess with water or oil, just clean up the stone when it looks cruddy. I hold it in my hand and make a diagonal forward/rocking stroke on the edge of the gouge, all in one motion. The gouge is moving forward, cutting into the stone, and at the same time twisting from one side to the other. A forward/rolling motion that ends up being a diagonal stroke across the stone. Then I look to see if the angle was good by visually checking the edge. Then I LIGHTLY hit the inside curve with a narrow ceramic rod, rolling it in my fingers and moving it forward and from side to side, again, all in one motion. Short strokes, the rod probably doesn't travel more than an inch. Bill
Sperit de bois
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Sharpening Basics by Patrick Spielman ISBN 0-8069-7226-2 is the book I used when I taught Wood Working and Cabinet Building. covers just about all tools we use from day to day.
User friendly to....cost $9.95 when I bought mine,money well spent.
one of the last things I use on my tools is 400-600 wet/dry emery paper,polishes the cutting edge to Emergency Room sharp.You can tell when you have it perfect,,lay it on the bench,,if it rolls off and hits the cement floor cuitting edge down,, it was perfect,,, if it just lays there it needs work,,,,, :rotf: :rotf: :idunno: :idunno:
User friendly to....cost $9.95 when I bought mine,money well spent.
one of the last things I use on my tools is 400-600 wet/dry emery paper,polishes the cutting edge to Emergency Room sharp.You can tell when you have it perfect,,lay it on the bench,,if it rolls off and hits the cement floor cuitting edge down,, it was perfect,,, if it just lays there it needs work,,,,, :rotf: :rotf: :idunno: :idunno:
ricklandes
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I take a piece of hardwood and cut a groove with the gouge I want to sharpen. I use Flex-cut gold (from Woodcraft)as my honing compound and pull the gouge through the cutout several times with a bit of downward pressure on it. A few strokes will do the trick.
I am believing your gouges have been polished and sharpened and your question is for touch-up.
If not let me know and I will detail the polishing of a gouge, prior to sharpening for you.
I am believing your gouges have been polished and sharpened and your question is for touch-up.
If not let me know and I will detail the polishing of a gouge, prior to sharpening for you.
ricklandes
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Just like toast with jelly...
matt denison
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:rotf:
:bow:
:bow:
Sperit de bois
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Yep,,expensive rug jelly down forsure.
I learned by watching Jack Brook's Beginning Carving DVD. I roll/slide the bevel on an oil stone by hand. then stomp the inside and out. I can shave the hair of the back of my hand.
I doesn't do the gouges any good, but I feel better. 
ricklandes
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To start I like Pfiel chisels and gouges which come out of the box quite nice, however others need a bit more. I was a one point a bit hesitant to "go after" expensive tools to get the finish I wanted for them. I guess once a tightwad always a tightwad...anyway.
I begin by carefully checking the leading edge to see if it is as it should be, square, having an even taper from base thickness of the metal stock to the lead cutting edge. IF not I employ a series of diamond files from 250, 400 to 600 to shape and round the gouge as needed. This can be on either the inside or outer.
I then use a flat hard backing (glass, marble, smooth very hard wood, a piece of metal, etc.) that gets a bit of wetting and a piece of new clean 1200 grit wet dry paper from the local auto parts store. I carefully (with lots of light) pull the gouge perpendicular to the cutting edge toward me with a slow rolling motion. If you cannot see your cut take a Sharpie or some layout fluid and color the outer edge of the gouge. It is key that the drawing/smoothing effort be done at the cutting edge. I maintain a slight say 15 degree angle on the gouge tip to handle end during the process with my knuckle acting as a height gauge.
The inner area of the gouge may develop a very slight wire or burr. Leave it for now. After several drawing toward you only strokes, check your work, under a glass if you need to make sure it is smooth and even.
Now go back with a ceramic file and carefully scrape the wire burr from the concave inner gouge area. I find the sharp end of a three square ceramic file will cut the burr off cleanly.
Now the gouge is ready to be polished/stropped as I noted above.
I do strop gouges with the same rolling stroke as I sharpen them, but the gouged out grove my be easier for most so I suggested that initially.
I think a good sharp test is to touch the cutting edge to your fingernail at a say 60 to 80 degree angle. The sharp edge will want to stick and begin cutting with a light touch.
When carving or working I strop the tool after a few cuts as it helps keep me alert and gives my eyes and brain a short rest and chance to check my progress.
I hope that helps. A sharp tool is always a pleasure to use and now you can take a measure of pride that you made that great working edge.
Have fun!
I begin by carefully checking the leading edge to see if it is as it should be, square, having an even taper from base thickness of the metal stock to the lead cutting edge. IF not I employ a series of diamond files from 250, 400 to 600 to shape and round the gouge as needed. This can be on either the inside or outer.
I then use a flat hard backing (glass, marble, smooth very hard wood, a piece of metal, etc.) that gets a bit of wetting and a piece of new clean 1200 grit wet dry paper from the local auto parts store. I carefully (with lots of light) pull the gouge perpendicular to the cutting edge toward me with a slow rolling motion. If you cannot see your cut take a Sharpie or some layout fluid and color the outer edge of the gouge. It is key that the drawing/smoothing effort be done at the cutting edge. I maintain a slight say 15 degree angle on the gouge tip to handle end during the process with my knuckle acting as a height gauge.
The inner area of the gouge may develop a very slight wire or burr. Leave it for now. After several drawing toward you only strokes, check your work, under a glass if you need to make sure it is smooth and even.
Now go back with a ceramic file and carefully scrape the wire burr from the concave inner gouge area. I find the sharp end of a three square ceramic file will cut the burr off cleanly.
Now the gouge is ready to be polished/stropped as I noted above.
I do strop gouges with the same rolling stroke as I sharpen them, but the gouged out grove my be easier for most so I suggested that initially.
I think a good sharp test is to touch the cutting edge to your fingernail at a say 60 to 80 degree angle. The sharp edge will want to stick and begin cutting with a light touch.
When carving or working I strop the tool after a few cuts as it helps keep me alert and gives my eyes and brain a short rest and chance to check my progress.
I hope that helps. A sharp tool is always a pleasure to use and now you can take a measure of pride that you made that great working edge.
Have fun!
ricklandes
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link?
jdkerstetter
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It's Ron's link that doesn't work. J.D.
I can't get the link to work. it is on the www.americanlongrifles.com website.
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jdkerstetter
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This site will not allow you to link to any other site that has a forum...not even in a PM.
You could name the forum, I guess, and tell how to find the item there. Or you could cut and paste the text to your post here, unless it is copy right protected, of course.
Enjoy, J.D.
You could name the forum, I guess, and tell how to find the item there. Or you could cut and paste the text to your post here, unless it is copy right protected, of course.
Enjoy, J.D.
