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White Oak

40 Cal.
Joined
Dec 27, 2012
Messages
256
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Location
E. Nebraska
Any of you guys use shot cups in your ML shotguns?
I know that doesn't fit traditional but with steel shot being mandatory for waterfowl and for any type of hunting on some state and federal areas I feel that the cup would provide at least some protection.
If you have used them what is your loading sequence? Powder, fiber wad, shot cup, shot and over the shot card?
I would not consider the cup with lead shot but also would not run steel down the barrel of my gun without a cup.
Thanks,
Ed
 
why not ITX or bismuth shot,I know it's costly but will be much easier on the barrel. I will not use steel in any of my muzzleloaders shot cups or not
 
If you use plastic cups, be sure to put a lubed wad (felt or fiber) between the wad and the powder in order limit or eliminate plastic fouling and buildup in the barrel. I've never had plastic fouling when doing so.

The question of steel is another issue. In my experience, you need lots of velocity to make it work as advertised. More in fact than you can get with a ML. In going from lead to steel in a modern shotgun the rule of thumb is to go up two sizes for similar terminal performance. In my experience you need to go up a couple of more sizes beyond that when you go to a muzzle loader due to the reduced velocity. And pretty quickly your pattern is so thin that it really isn't working well, simply due to the really large shot. ITX and bismuth are good suggestions with or without the shot cups. If you want to use one of the various tungsten variations, cup away! :wink:
 
majg1234 said:
why not ITX or bismuth shot,I know it's costly but will be much easier on the barrel. I will not use steel in any of my muzzleloaders shot cups or not
... or Nice/Shot/EcoTungsten. Most of my friends and acquaintances that shoot non-toxic in muzzleloaders are using either bismuth or NiceSHot.

Regards,
Joel
 
BrownBear said:
If you want to use one of the various tungsten variations, cup away! :wink:
Remember that ITX, NiceShot, Tungsten Matrix, and Classic Doubles are also also tungsten based, but in combinations/configurations that are supposed to make them barrel-friendly, in contrast to the hard tungsten alloys/composites that, like steel (actually iron), absolutely require serious bore protection.

Regards,
Joel
 
Appreciate the suggestions guys.
BrownBear, everything you brought up on steel is true. By the time you reach a shot size with enough retained energy there would not be much of a pattern left. We have some opportunities for some close range waterfowling on our place and I was just thinking. I bought the New Englander for turkeys anyway. Thanks for settin me straight!
Take care,
Ed
 
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