shotgun questions

[teakmtn]

Thanks everyone for the great responses. I'll start with 3f because thats what I have. I'll work up some loads (with 3f) using the information posted here. However, next opportunity I have I'll pick some 2f and work with that. There are so many really thoughtful replies, that's why I really appreciate this group. You guys are great! I'll try to report back what happens. It might not happen until I knock down some birds, but, I'll get back to you all, for sure.

 

[teakmtn]

I should also mention, I live in California, Eastern Sierra, and in October, will be driving to North Dakota to pick up my new gun dog (GSP). I plan to spend a month getting to know the new dog as well as the new shotgun.
(please note, that's not the only shotgun I'll be traveling with)
I hope to have a sense of what this BP shotgun is capable of. I'm looking forward to both (new dog and new gun).
Thanks again,
Doug T.

 

[Lonegun1894]

You're right. I got ahead of myself thinking patterns instead of safety. I have never seen anything in person that showed any safety concerns going from 2F to 3F, but have seen a difference in patterns. I tend to compensate for this effect by using a little more shot than some here think necessary, but it works for me and has never given me any trouble whatsoever.

 

[Shine]

Hope you enjoy it. Under the barrel it has a recommended max load. I belive 89 grs 2ff with equal amount of shot. That should bring down any pheasant with number 6 shot.

 

[Pete G]

The tip about leaving the ramrod in the just loaded barrel is a good one. To add to that, if you hit with the first shot (yes, sometimes it happens) be sure to remember to uncap the remaining barrel before reloading. You don't want to be working in front of a loaded gun.

 

[teakmtn]

Dang, that's a real good idea, removing the cap on the loaded barrel when loading after a single shot.
What is the need to always re-tamp the second barrel after the first shot and before the second shot?

 

[BrownBear]

What is the need to always re-tamp the second barrel after the first shot and before the second shot?

Just to make sure the load hasn't shifted with the recoil of the first shot. I've never experienced a shift, but I use tight wads. I still check anyway, just as an easy precaution against the first time.

Quiz guys who talk about load shifts, and you'll usually discover they're not using tight combos that help prevent shifts.

 

[Britsmoothy]

I don't un cap the second barrel during a single reload, I use a leather safety between cap and hammer. No percussion can take place !

You will now get all manner of na sayers and fancy safety devices but a strip of thick leather hanging from the trigger guard is all you need.

B.

 

[BrownBear]

Same here. Love that little strip of leather. Also useful for keeping humidity out of the charge any time you're not capped.

 

[Britsmoothy]

:hatsoff:

 

[Supercracker]

I don't un cap the second barrel during a single reload, I use a leather safety between cap and hammer. No percussion can take place !

You will now get all manner of na sayers and fancy safety devices but a strip of thick leather hanging from the trigger guard is all you need.

B.

Same thing I do.

 

[robinsroost]

I don't un cap the second barrel during a single reload, I use a leather safety between cap and hammer. No percussion can take place !

I have a similar idea. I have a 3/4" X 3/4" piece of old truck inner tube tied to my trigger guard. I punched a hole through one corner of the square and tied a 6" long piece of waxed linen cord to it, and the other end to the guard. I do the same thing with my cap lock rifles. Keep yer powder dry......Robin

 

[teakmtn]

Thanks for that tip. I've got lots of leather.
Dumb question alert!!
But back to the load possibly shifting from the first shot. What's the point of having a double barrel if you can't take that second shot if the first missed?
Or when shooting doubles at the trap range? They do that don't they?

 

[BrownBear]

What's the point of having a double barrel if you can't take that second shot if the first missed?

Perty darned good question.

Like all other load development in muzzleloading, you have to test to find the right combo- in this case not only one that patterns well, but also doesn't shift. That's the point of checking for load shift, especially early on. My only wish is that someone would sell "sampler" bags of wads, maybe 25 each of 4 different diameters, so you could try a range of sizes to see which works for you rather than buying whole big bags.

Turns out, checking is easy and routine. In my case it's proven that I've never had a load shift in over 30 years of shotgunning.

When you're going through the loading sequence on the fired barrel, you reach a point that the darned ramrod is in the way. You've poured the powder and seated the base wad, but you need both hands free for measuring the shot and seating the overshot wad or card. Easy. Just drop that cumbersome rod down the unfired bore and leave it there while you do those tasks. Give it a little push before you retrieve it from the bore, to check for load shift, retract it and seat the overshot card. Now put it back in the RR pipes and you're ready to shoot. With the absolute certainty you haven't had a load shift.

Winner, winner, chicken dinner. :wink:

 

[Rifleman1776]

What is the need to always re-tamp the second barrel after the first shot and before the second shot?

Just to make sure the load hasn't shifted with the recoil of the first shot. I've never experienced a shift, but I use tight wads. I still check anyway, just as an easy precaution against the first time.

Quiz guys who talk about load shifts, and you'll usually discover they're not using tight combos that help prevent shifts.

Consider me quizzed. :haha:
I was absolutely delighted when I sold my double. It was a Ped. 12 ga. that actually measured 14 ga. It was choked. Meaning wads could not be seated unless they were undersize. Meaning they did not hold the shot/charge load snugly. Meaning, if I shot one barrel the other shifted. Meaning, I had to decap for safety and reseat the unfired barrel after every shot and before I could reload the fired barrel. This blankety-blank :cursing: muzzle gun was totaly wuthuless as far as I was concerned. The question of why have a double when they are so much trouble is a good one. I know, historically, literally boatloads of doubles came from Europe to the U.S. over the centuries. Somebody liked them. Or, at least, used them. This boy didn't like them :td: and will never use one again.

 

[Shine]

They probably used tighter cards and wads

 

[BrownBear]

Ayup.

 

[Britsmoothy]

Thanks for that tip. I've got lots of leather.
Dumb question alert!!
But back to the load possibly shifting from the first shot. What's the point of having a double barrel if you can't take that second shot if the first missed?
Or when shooting doubles at the trap range? They do that don't they?

Over hyped issue. .030"-.040" over size to bore measurement cards of corn flake box card or thicker and forget it :thumbsup:

 

[Rifleman1776]

They probably used tighter cards and wads

I tried that but it took a mallet and almost bore sized dowel to ram them past the choke.
How use tighter cards and wads when they won't go past the choke?

 

[BrownBear]

...past the choke.
How use tighter cards and wads when they won't go past the choke?

Aha! Dump the choke. Anyone I've quizzed about their load shift woes has confessed using guns choked like suppository guns where the wads hit the choke last rather than first. The only guys I've seen get around the tight choke/wad issues have been shooting with screw-in chokes, which they removed for loading.

If the chokes are fixed, I'd just have them reamed out and move a little closer for my shots. I won't own a muzzleloader with modern chokes, fixed or screw-in. Jug choking is another matter, which doesn't interfere with using proper wads for the bore.