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Should I use BP if available?

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bill-e

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Hi all,

I read through a few long posts on BP alternatives and I still have a couple of questions. It seems most of the reviews I read while looking to purchase an 1858 New Army mentioned that they had either used 777 or Pyrodex so as an uneducated newbie I assumed that these were widely used and accepted propellants. These propellants also advertised easier cleaning so I was interested. Reading through this messageboard it seems that many if not most folks prefer real BP.

For me, cost is not an issue as I'm not going to shoot enough to worry about the difference in price. What is important to me is consistency, corrosion and long term storage as my job has me away most of the time so a pound is going to last me a long time.

So having said that, if I can find BP here locally, is the conventional wisdom to use real BP in my C&B revolver or have I just been reading an emotional debate?

Thanks
Bill
 
BP is the best. Will last for years, as for the subs shelf life is short. In the search put in Black powder and read some threads on it. There's has been a lot talk. IMO its a no brainer. Pyrodex is OK. You can't beat the real BP. Cleaning is not a problem with BP and less corrosion. Just remember no matter what you use if you don't clean its going rust.
 
Bill, as far as corrosion is concerned, both real BP and BP subs have to be cleaned 100% the same way to thoroughly get the metal squeaky clean or there can be corrosion from either type.
So in spite of the modern marketing hype to sell their products there are far more modern firearms ruined by shooters using BP subs than BP users ever did

Plus, the ignition speed and accuracy from a can of Goex 3F for example, puts modern BP subs to shame...and its usually much less expensive as well
 
I like them Both. Up here in Alaska, BP is, well pretty scarce. I have some and buy a couple of cans when it comes around. But Pyrodex and even pioneer powder is on my Shelf also. A can of goex is actually a few dollars more than pyrodex up here.

We have a pretty dry climate here most of the year so I never see any issues with shelf life up here with the subs.

And yeah, You have to clean it. I dont think its any easier to clean up then Black powder either. Both come clean using the same methods. And takes the same amount of time.

So youll have to decide from your situation. Up here for me, the subs work just fine if its all I can get.
 
Thanks for the reply's all. I have read and I'm still reading posts on the subject but I've not been around enough to tell who I should be listening to :) I don't have any experience buying BP but I'm guessing it wont be a problem to find here in NH.

I do have a humidity problem in the spring through fall as it get get quite muggy here in southern New Hampshire. I was thinking of storing my powder and caps in an old surplus steel, gasketed cover box and tossing in a bag of my DIY kitty liter desiccant to keep it dry.

As for cleaning, I know I have to clean but using the powder which is the least corrosive is just insurance.
 
Now, if real BP is available , this should be a no-brainer. :hmm:
Here's the logic.
Buy real BP now so you will be ahead of the game and have it [strike]IF[/strike], WHEN you get a Flinter. :haha:
 
Bill it is all up to you. Shoot them both and go with whatever floats your boat.

When I started in the sport I did it because I wanted to go all out traditional and shoot the way the old timers did back in the day. That meant smelly, grimy black powder and for all its faults it is my 'go-to' propellant. If I wanted convenience, efficiency and accuracy I would probably go to an in-line with shotgun primers, scopes and pyro pellets.

Your mileage may vary and if some self proclaimed expert doesn't like it he can go pound sand. There are better things to do than argue over such nonsense. The best stuff to shoot is the stuff you have.
 
Where I am (in rural Ontario, Canada) BP is hard to get. Gotta drive minimum of 100 miles to get it. I have a small stash of GOEX 3F, but it's not my main range powder - I'm using Pyrodex and 777 mostly at the range, and saving my BP more for hunting. Price-wise, Pyrodex is the cheapest up here. ($18 a can, BP is $23, 777 is $22) With the substitutes, you can shoot a lot more before the balls get tight. That's one advantage I like. On the other hand, BP goes BOOM! a lot faster, no CLICK-BOOMs like you get with 777!!
 
I have a Remington 1858 copy and the only time I use Pyrodex P is when I run low on FFFg Goex. Then I save it for my flinters. Real black powder burns better than the subs, but they will work. I know you said cost is not an issue, but in these times you want to get the most for your money. Black powder is normally cheaper per pound. So why pay more for something that doesn't work as well? As to who to listen to, Roundball has been around for some time and very knowledgable. By the way, welcome to the forum and to the world of black powder :thumbsup:
 
bill-e said:
I do have a humidity problem in the spring through fall as it get get quite muggy here in southern New Hampshire. I was thinking of storing my powder and caps in an old surplus steel, gasketed cover box and tossing in a bag of my

If the cap is on tight nothing else should be needed...but for additional peace of mind, when a case of Goex arrives, I gently snug up all the caps with a pair of pliars to ensure none vibrated loose during shipping.
Then I seal 3-4 cans at a time inside a gallon size ziploc bag, and store them back in their shipping box on the floor of a closet.
 
BP is the way to go simply for the fact it has a lower ignition temp than the subs do. I have used Pyrodex on occasion in my C&B revolver with OK results,(a few misfires) but I always went back to BP more for the traditional aspect than anything else. And I think it is a bit more reliable.

Hawken Hunter
 
Pyrodex actually gets me noticeably tighter groups in my C&B revolvers - but it costs more and is tougher to clean up. it gives you more shots per pound though.
the real deal 3F BP is hard to beat.
I haven't used anything other than those 2 but from what I've heard about the other subs I'm not anxious to try them at least partly due to cost and alleged shelf life after the container seal has been broken.
Pyrodex will clump some over time but easily broken up by good shakeing.
 
I quit using the subs because the higher ignition temperature contributed to a few misfires or hangfires at THE MOST INOPPORTUNE MOMENTS. :cursing:
 
Quote from Bill-e
As for cleaning, I know I have to clean but using the powder which is the least corrosive is just insurance.

Don't get confused with the difference between fouling and the propensity for corrosion. Many of the substitutes will produce less fouling than black powder. That doesn't mean that they produce less corrosion. You won't go wrong believing that they all will cause corrosion and you need to clean thoroughly and lubricate to prevent corrosion. Don't expect any of the powders to prevent corrosion. They just can't do it.

Black powder is the best propellent you can have. Its the most reliable although with your Remington the subs will do pretty good.
 
I tend to hoard the Goex 3F for my flintlock because it's getting harder to get.

I buy the subs really really cheap at Walmart on close out at the end of the hunting season and they work fine in my caplocks & modern muzzleloaders. They are no more corrosive than blackpowder. The 777 is much less corrosive and not near as dirty. 777 doesn't store very well.

I'm just a cheap skate.
 
here, let me pull out my soapbox...

since you've got to clean it anyway, there's no reason that i can see not to use real BP.

if something else works for you, then far be it from me to throw mud, but I've never had a problem with real BP, and that's more than most can say for the subs.
 
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