Sight-in/ Break in

[longrifle89]

Well, it's been a while since I've posted last, as I've been awaiting my TVM Early Virginia with bated breath. My EV is being built now, and should be ready in 3 or 4 weeks (though I won't get at it until mid/late July).

Anyway, I understand the basic principles of sighting-in primitive sights, but I figured I might as well check and see if anyone has tips learned through experience, or a tried-and-true method.

Also, I've read many different things about breaking-in barrels and I would like to hear what people with experience have to say about it, and if breaking in and sighting in can be done in conjunction with each other.

Thank you all in advance.

 

[longrifle89]

Also, I intend for this rifle to be a deerslayer, so I want the sights to be set for hunting loads with a center of mass sight picture. I shoot high power/service rifle a lot and use a six o'clock hold, but this is for targets whose exact size and distance are known, and as this will not be the case when hunting, I figured center of mass would be more certain when trying to take a deer.

 

[tg]

You can usually zero a ML at around 90 yds and aim at the same place from the muzzle out to 100+ and the ball will fall into the kill zone thus no need to compensate for different ranges the ball will be on POA or a bit above or below but a killing shot either way, of course this will not likely work with real light loads, some experimenting is in order

 

[Bill Hall]

Here's my experience on the subject. First of all, not all barrels need the same breaking in period. Some take longer, and some are good right out of the machine shop. When your shot patches are in good condition, you can assume break-in time is over. You can speed up the break-in time by lapping the bore with a scratchy pad, or any other method found by doing a little research on this sight.

I like to sight a rifle in while it is breaking in, but maybe leave the point of impact just a tad low. A broken in barrel will not change the point of aim, just tighten up the group. So if you sight in at, say 50 yards, the group will get tighter as the barrel breaks in, without changing windage or elevation.

Once your patches are showing a good break-in, you can start tweeking the load to get the most accuracy out of your rifle. This might mean upping the charge, which will raise you point of impact. That's why I like to leave the point of impact a little low while breaking in, so I can have a little wiggle room if I go to a higher charge.

None of this is written in stone, just the way I do it. I think the important thing to remember is to not get too carried away about accuracy until you are sure your barrel is broken in. Bill

 

[Rat Trapper]

Since you are a high power shooter use to using the 6 o'clock hold try this: use the 6 o'clock hold but adjust the sights to hit at 6 o'clock. when you go to he field you can hold dead center and hit there. The reason I suggest this is as you already know you can see and hold with this sight picture better with iron sights.

 

[longrifle89]

This particular barrel will be a Green Mountain .54 1-in-72 twist. And your bringing up loads reminds me, I am planning on using hunting loads of 80-gr. Other than raising/lowering point of impact, does varying the loads affect accuracy, namely, the group size?

And Rat Trapper, I like your suggestion.

As I said, I understand the principles of sighting in with the drifting and filing, but is there any way to quantify how much to file/drift, or is it just done in very small increments in hopes of not filing too much? I might be thinking about this too scientifically.... :hmm:

 

[Lonegun1894]

Other than raising/lowering point of impact, does varying the loads affect accuracy, namely, the group size?






Since you shoot CF highpower, ever notice how your rifle most likely has a strong preference for a specific bullet weight and powder charge? The same exact thing applies here. Play with your powder charges in incrememnts of say 5 grains, and then take the best one, and fine tune it to what your rifle likes. Dont worry, it will tell you. Remember that the main thing, just like in Highpower or any other sport requiring precision, is consistency.

As to a formula for how much to file sights to affect POI a certain amount, yes, there is a formula, but I never remember it as I like shooting too much to mess with the required math. It's been posted here several times and I'm sure someone will remember the name of it so you can find it easier. Personally, I just take it slow and steady like you said, til I get it just where I want it. And on a couple of guns, it has taken me several range trips because I'd much rather take off too little metal than try to put it back on later.

 

[Tom Compton]

X/SR = M/D

X is amount in inches to move the sight whether w/ clicker or file and punch

SR is sight radius in inches

M is distance in inches to move POI

D is sight in range in inches


So to move 4" @ 3600" (100 Yds) on rifle w/ 29" between sights.

X/29=4/3600
X = 4 x 29 / 3600
X = 116 / 3600
X = .0322 or 32 thousnadths of an inch

 

[Bill Hall]

Like Lonegun said, you need to play around with the powder charge, and also all the other variables, like lube and patch thickness, to find the best accuracy for your rifle. But, there is no sense in striving for fine accuracy until the barrel has been broken in. One varible at a time, and barrel break-in comes first.

I've broken in a few Greeen Mountain barrels, and have found that it takes about 150- 200 shots for the rifling to stop cutting the patches. That's why I cheat a little and scrub the bore with a mild abrasive, to cut down on the amount of shots it takes for a natural break-in period. I use a piece of those green kitchen scratchy pads (I cannot think of what they are called :idunno: ) on a jag, but others here have used steel wool, valve grinding compound, and even toothpaste to get the same result. The main thing is to take even strokes, the entire length of the barrel, to ensure even wear on the rifling. All you want to do during this process is dull the sharp edges of the rifling. With the scratchy pad, about 30 strokes is all it takes, and then let the bore finish breaking in naturally after that.

A new barrel may have sharp lands, and they have a tendancy to cut the patches. This will result in either visible slits on the spent patch, or a complete mangled effect. Once you find your spent patches are in a condition that looks like you can shoot them again, it's time to start adjusting the other variables, mainly powder amount, to get a smaller group.

If you are sighting in under 70 yards or so, changing the load 5 grains at a time will have a small effect on elevation. The idea here is to adjust the charge to get the smallest group. Hope this helps and have fun, Bill.

 

[Ray-Vigo]

MD/VA area actually isn't bad for sight-in or break in opportunities. Marriottsville Muzzleloaders, Tidewater Muzzleloaders and Bull Run Muzzleloaders are all within driving distance. Between them you could actually shoot 2-3 weekends per month at the 50 yard distance. The rules vary for each, but I've been to both Marriottsville and Bull Run shoots, and they are excellent opportunities.

I'm in the process of sight in and break in of a new flintlock rifle. I plan on going to more events to work on it some more.

 

[longrifle89]

Thanks for the tips, everyone.

One more question (for now). When drifting sights, is it necessary to have a vise, or is having someone else hold it sufficient?

 

[Bill Hall]

For drifting sights, I just squat down and lay the rifle across my legs. It takes a little coordination to get everything lined up, but it's been working for me for thirty some years. I think laying the rifle on a table, and maybe also on some foam rubber, would work better. I just never had a table when shooting. With a table, a second person could hold the gun while you peck away at the sight. However, if the second person is just holding the rifle up in the air, without any other support, I think there's going to be some missed hits and some bad words said between friends. Bill