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Single set triggers

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When setting the trigger (on a DASST) I HAVE had the **** slip off the sear and discharge the gun when the **** was released before. I was glad the old safety rule of; "always keep the gun pointed in a safe direction" was drummed in to my head when I first started shooting years and years ago.

IMHO, for a hunting situation, when things can happen so fast, i.e. emotions run high and you might have to shoot fast, the added complexity of a set trigger increases the odds of something going wrong. That applies mostly to close range woods type shooting. On the other hand, if your shots are likely to be longer range--like in antelope hunting, the shots are (usually) longer range on relatively stationary targets. In that sort of situation you generally have the time necessary to do the fiddling with the set trigger. So, I don't believe there is only one answer for; "what is the best way to go?" The answer is dependent on the individual with the gun, their familiarity and confidence with it, and the situation.
 
After firing my Kibler SMR with the set triggers and seeing how fast it fired I decided to put one in my colonial. I had to bend the base a very little but got it installed and it works just like the SMR, fast! The trigger works fine without being set too, I'm not a hunter any more so for target shooting it's fine.
 

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If all you are doing is hunting the same thing year after year then more power to you. The man with one gun is a silly myth. A gun is a tool. That's like saying the best mechanic is the guy with one socket. It's false on it's face and ridiculous. There is a vast diversity of firearms, and most of them are purpose built.

There is more than one kind of shooting, and more than one kind of action, barrel, trigger, scope, feed, and method for that shooting. I don't shoot squirrels with a .30-06. I don't hunt with a MTU or a straight taper barrel, because the cold shot is what matters, and I don't need it to hold zero on the 100th shot. My hunting guns aren't comically heavy because I have to carry them over terrain, and I don't need to reduce recoil to the point where I can spot my own misses. I don't compete with a CRF action because I want to be able to shuck cartridges fast while holding the scope right on target. I don't hunt with a FFP scope because I want a big reticle on low power for a wide field of view. I don't want a hunting gun to have a Diamond trigger on a hanger, because it isn't safe. I don't put a bipod on a deer rifle because in the terrain I hunt I could not see the animal from prone. And on, and on, and on...

Can't you just:
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If your trigger requires setting before you **** the hammer your trigger need some adjustment. The trigger should hit the sear arm and then drop back down. A little bit of filing on the tip of the trigger spring will usually do the trick.
 
I used a Jonathan Browning single set trigger on a fowler. It was single phase or single action. The trigger needed to be pushed forward until the roller on the mainspring engaged. The Cain trigger may also have a roller and a single phase or single action. Never cared much for roller type trigger mechanisms.
A double phase or double action single set trigger I got from Ron Long in a trade (but not made by him) was built on a English sporter design. Fairly weak and the trigger pulls away from the finger when shot. Will take a lot of tweaking. I got a single set, double phase trigger for a rifle from Track of the Wolf but not sure who made it. Has a stamp of a deer or buck head on it. Long, thick trigger bar that necessitates a thick wrist on the stock.
Wish I could have gotten the single set triggers used on the replicas of the Hamilton-Burr duelers built by Wogdon and marketed through the Franklin Mint many decades ago. They were well built, strong and smooth.
 
I have a .58 (thanks to Bobby Hoyt, formerly .54) plains rifle that has a trigger that needs to be set before cocking. It was strange at first, but it works well. I have to **** it to set it a half-**** to put a cap on. But it will not fire from that position. Pull to full ****, and it fires nicely. Re-set to go to half-**** to pull the cap, wipe, re-load, cap, and fire. Different from my others, but highly serviceable.

ADK Bigfoot
 
It appears from what I'm seeing as I shop for a single set that due to that adj. screw behind the trigger a fowler type t/guard is a 'no go'. Am I reading that right? Or is there a way around that? I need a sanity check.
 
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