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Single vs. Double trigger?

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rafterob

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I am building my first rifle for "practice" and have bought most parts new/used condition. I recently scored a set of brass hardware from an old CVA kit. It comes with a single trigger-non set. It does not include the trigger guard or side plate. I was thinking of using the single trigger for economy. I have double set on my Hawken and appreciate the action. Have shot the Old CVA guns in the past and seemed fine from what I remember. Single for economy-or put out the bucks for a double set?
 
Don't take my experience as final answer, I've only built a couple from scratch. I use single trigger for simplicity/economy. You can get them as hair trigger as the double triggers, just more fussing (again, it's probably me). I've built my owner trigger mechanism which the trigger will "pry" up another piece that trips the sear. This double lever has more mechanical leverage on the sear. I do like my TC Hawkens, but have take up the flint bug bad....
 
Have 5 of them guns with the single triggers, one has a pretty good trigger, rest are all hard. It all comes down to how the trigger bar hits the sear arm (leverage). Zonie had a post on the leverage part not too ago. He explained it like prying up a rock. My self I like the set triggers. Dilly
 
I've built two guns with single triggers and built them from scratch. If set up properly they are great for hunting. One is on my son's J.Henry Trade rifle and the other is on a smoothbore trade gun. It's all about mechanical advantage, shape, pin position, and tuning your locks.
 
Having shot a lot of targets including centerfire benchrest with 2-6 oz triggers). There is nothing more delightful than a good trigger and nothing more frustrating than a creepy heavy one.
I don't think it matters much if it is single or double so long as it is a good crisp trigger.(provided it is correct for the style rifle you are building). My only advice is to take whatever time is needed to get the trigger right for you and your style of shooting, you won't regret it.
 
I have set triggers on the lehigh I built this summer. Works great set, but as far as unset dont bother. Wish I had gone with a single, as far as for hunting at least.
 
Both of my "go to" hunting muzzleloading rifles are single triggers. John Donelson built me a Lehigh with a beautifully crisp 5 oz trigger that has a wide finger-pad and feels even lighter.

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The other is a T/C New Englander I built from a kit and I spent the time to carefully ceramic stone the trigger pivot points. A little creapier, but still the way I like 'em for hunting (especially with gloves or half-mittens).

The set triggers are definately the way to go for target, but for hunting I like the speed, silence, simplicity and room of a single trigger.
 
Stumpkiller said:
The set triggers are definately the way to go for target, but for hunting I like the speed, silence, simplicity and room of a single trigger.
I totally agree, I don't want a set trigger on a hunting rifle. I don't want a super light pull when I may be a bit excited and fingers a bit numb and those ears on a mule deer can pick up that "click" from quite a distance. One can adjust the sear to tumbler set up to get a good pull on the front trigger and seem to have the best of both worlds, three pounds unset and three ounces set. Trouble with that is that one gets into the habit of setting that rear trigger every time, and you may just do it without thinking, I have done so. :grin:
 
I have double and single triggers,,,don't like doubles at all,,,give me single triggers,,, :hatsoff: :thumbsup: :hatsoff:
 
Ghettogun:
If you choose to use the single trigger remember, the closer you locate the pivot pin to the sear arm, the lighter the trigger pull will be.
On the other hand, the closer the pivot pin is to the sear arm, the greater the amount of trigger movement that will be required to release the sear.

Of course there is a limit to how close you can get this pivot pin because of the design of the trigger support plate which also cannot interfere with the sear arm at any time.

As a ballpark guess, assuming you have a good lock, if you can get the trigger pivot pin about 3/8 of an inch ahead of the sear arm you will have a nice usable trigger pull without excessive overtravel.
zonie
 
Ghettogun: What Zonie says... and I found that pinning the trigger higher than the sear bar helps. I let the trigger bar slope down toward the rear and filed it to just touch the sear bar at rest. no flop, nice smoth easy pull. I was amazed!!
 

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