Single vs Double Triggers?

[Curt]

So far no one has even mentioned how to adjust the pull weight of double set triggers and it is very simple just take them out of there mortise and tighten the main spring screw to make the pressure heavier or loosen it to make it weaker .the screw between the triggers are for the creep or let off which should not be too excessive.

I have both kinds in my rifles and like them real well but if I could only have one it would be DST or double set.Ill bet not being familiar with ones stuff is where most likes and dislikes come from.JMHO Curt

 

[John Shields]

I have gloves that the index finger folds back, so I don't have the problem of not feeling the trigger.

 

[galamb]

This has turned into another Ford vs GM discussion.

The answer is "whatever YOU prefer".

All the answers here are what us as individuals like and has provided zero usable advice - how can it be anything else since "preference" is simply that...

 

[Birddog6]

Either will work in set up properly. Most of my single triggers I install have about 2-3# pull. The double set triggers have about 3-3.5# pull on the front trigger, & the set trigger can be adjusted to where ya want it to trip.
The issue with the double set triggers is most don't know how to modify them to make them work light on the front trigger, thus they end up with a 6-7-9# pressure pull on the front trigger & that is unacceptable for me.

If you buy an install a double set trigger as is, you are most likely going to have a hard pull on the front trigger.

Keith Lisle

 

[William O.]

Having both I would opt for a single trigger but whichever you decide on, practice is the key.

 

[Curt]

This has nothing to do with Ford or GM.Greebe is askin for our preference and he got some very good advice from most who answered his ??s.BTW I owned a rifle made by Billy Heck with DST and he had it tuned so well it made no noise at all when you set the rear trigger .And the front trigger had the lightest pull unset that I have ever seen.

LC Rice told me how to adjust the sear spring so the click wouldn't be so loud when pullin the hammer back. Curt

 

[F.G. Ford]

Hello Greebe,
Track of the Wolf has two triggers that may meet your need. I have used them both, they work well, in all situations, hot, cold, hunting, or target shooting.
The model numbers are TR-LR-SST-S ( double action single set ) @ $66, the other is TR-SST-3 ( single set ) @ $40
These two triggers will fit in most trigger guards and are easy to install.
A high pivot point trigger with a polished and properly stoned trigger will compete with the best of guns.
These triggers from Track help a new gun maker make a fine shooting rifle first time out.
Have a great day!
Fred

 

[Walks with fire]

Single trigger fan here. I am for the most part a deer hunter and my thumb rides the hammer. I just depress the trigger and ease the hammer back and release the trigger. No noise; and very quick. It's a lot like a Winchester 94 with a hammer spur. I do tune my own lock and triggers and my trigger guards are large and rounded for use with gloves but I seldom wear any.

Personally I just never cared for a double trigger and I don't like most of the trigger guards that come on them. I never tested the pounds of pull but there is no creep or noticeable excessive finger pressure to fire any of them. I do use the same spring on all my locks though.

It's easy to set up a light creep free single trigger but I can't explain it here for fear that someone may over do it and hurt themselves.

 

[Snakebite]

I prefer double set triggers. Every rifle I have has them and setting the back trigger is very automatic when shooting.

Mainly what you get used to.

 

[Col. Batguano]

The other thing that has not been discussed is the width and shape of the trigger shoe. Because of the disbursement over a larger area, a wider shoe that is more custom formed to the shape of your finger will feel lighter than a narrower one with less contact area. In my Win 52-D target .22 I need a heavier trigger pull to maintain good control than in some of my other guns, like a H&R M-12 US. We're talking ounces in both cases, but the concept is the same.

Another thing that affects perceived pull weight or effort is your grip, and where your finger contacts the trigger shoe. If you have a relatively straight finger you will be "dragging wood". If you hand is further forward, and the finger contacts the trigger more toward the middle of the pad, and the finger is bent, then the perceived trigger pull will be lighter too.

 

[hanshi]

I don't usually wear gloves for deer hunting; if it's too cold I keep them in my pocket. I also resort to the chemical hand/foot warmers on occasion. Gloves just don't work for me in those situations.

My first flintlock had a single trigger as did most of my rifles from that period.

 

[Walks with fire]

Dragging wood probably is the cause of many of the mysterious fliers that appear for some people sometimes. Stock fit is so important and the wrist/guard should be correct for your hand. That's why I don't like the big metal trigger guards. I want the fingers other than the index on the stock which provides better/faster control of the rifle and no wood contact with the index finger.

I use mostly carbine length rifles for deer hunting because the stalking and driving I do requires a rifle that is quick to bring into action. It's so much faster for me with a single trigger; I can go to full cock with no noise in one fluid movement to the shoulder.

 

[gard72977]

I have a custom early Virginia rifle being built in 54cal. I chose to go with a single trigger. The gun will be used for club matches and plinking. I just like the way it looks and I don't see where I will be loosing anything in accuracy.

 

[Billnpatti]

You are right, a single trigger can be quite sweet if you have the right lock and if you get the trigger geometry right. Do that and you will have one sweet trigger. I built an Early Lancaster in .40 caliber with a flintlock and a single trigger. It is a sweet shooter. Since I have no interest in being historically correct, I don't give a flying hoot about what others may think. I build a gun to suit me and I put the barrel, lock, trigger, etc. on it that suit me. This Early Lancaster suits me. It is your rifle and your money so, highly recommend that you build the rifle that you like.

 

[crockett]

Greebe: I'm going to mention a few things you may already know but just in case you don't, worth mentioning.
For a buffalo or pronghorn hunter shooting at a maximum range, the lightest, best trigger would be an advantage, so, set trigger. If you hunt in the woods for whitetail deer, black bear, or hogs with a lot of shots 50-75 yards then the set trigger might not be that much better and, as stated, something that can be adjusted is also something that can get out of adjustment. A single trigger is pretty much fool proof.
2-3 pound pull. On a modern rifle the "2 1/2 lb. pull" is pretty light. Remington used to recommend not going under a 3 pound pull and a lot of factory bolt action rifles have 5 lb plus trigger pulls......so....when we speak of getting a single trigger on a muzzle loader to a 2-3 lb pull, that would generally be considered VERY GOOD.
The single triggers on a manufactured muzzle loader are usually very bad. The trigger plate has two upward prongs and the trigger is pivoted to these prongs. The single triggers everyone raves about are totally different. The lock and side plate are removed and a 1/16 or 5/64 hole is drilled through the stock. This hole is usually right at the bottom of the lock mortise but maybe a 3/8" higher than the type of trigger pinned to the trigger plate. This higher pivot point lengthens the part of the trigger you press with your finger- in short- it is a "longer crowbar" prying against the sear arm and reduces the trigger pull down to 2-3 pounds. The pin that the trigger pivots on is simple, just going through the wood of the stock. It is hidden from view when the side plate and lock are put back in place.
On this arrangement the trigger plate is just a flat piece of metal with a slot for the trigger. The front of the trigger plate is usually held with the bolt coming down from the breech plug tang on top of the stock. The rear of the trigger plate can be left as is. You can use a small screw to hold it down if desired, or, you can slightly under cut the back of the mortise and bevel the rear of the trigger plate to wedge into this, and just use the tang bolt to secure the trigger plate in place.

 

[Brokennock]

I too really like a single set trigger. Had one on an old Pedersoli Kentucky Rifle, don't have the rifle anymore bit kept the trigger in hopes of future use, and have one on a modern center fire rifle. Best of both worlds.

 

[crockett]

Single sets are interesting in the respect that on an old gun- just by looking at it externally, can you tell the difference between a single trigger and a single set trigger?

 

[Col. Batguano]

There is usually an adjustment screw protruding downwards in the single set trigger behind the shoe itself.

 

[Rifleman1776]

thing that affects perceived pull weight or effort is your grip

That is a major point often overlooked.
Example, I shoot my 10/22 quite a bit offhand and the trigger feels fine. Recently, I rezeroed the scope from my bench. Shooting bench the trigger pull felt like 100 pounds :shocked2: , very difficult. Same when I shot ml competition, I could use only a light sett trigger from the bench or X-sticks. Offhand, single was just fine.

 

[Ron_T.]

I've got three .50 caliber traditional black powder rifles, 3 older CVA cap-lock Hawkens plus a Traditons "Shenandoah" flint-lock. All of 'em have double-set triggers... and all three are very accurate.

With the two CVAs, I've dedicated the one with a 28-inch barrel (7½ lbs.) as my percussion-cap, "target rifle" and the shorter, handier-in-the-woods CVA Hunter-Hawken Carbine with the 24-inch barrel (6½ lbs.) which I call my "deer hunting rifle".

While I've always enjoy shooting the 3 black powder rifles, the enjoyment I get from shooting 'em has increase as I've watched the cost and availability of .22 rimfire ammo and center-fire reloading components prices go-threw-the-roof!

I've been doing a LOT of black powder shooting because I can spend a whole afternoon at my Club's rifle range and spend LESS than $5.00 in shooting session costs with the ol' muzzle-loaders and have a really pleasant afternoon of shooting.

This is due to a great extent in the time it takes to load and shoot the "smoke-poles" together with chatting with other rimfire and center-fire shooters who show a keen interest in the muzzle-loaders I'v shooting.

My "target-shooting" CVA Hawken generally puts 3 inter-locking big round holes in the bullseye at 25 yards and shoots almost as well at 50 yards.

The rimfire and center-fire shooters are usually really surprised at the muzzle-loader's fine accuracy... and who doesn't enjoy smelling and seeing the big white cloud of black powder smoke that results from each and every shot?

Since I do all my shooting off-the-bench or off some handy "rest" (knees, the side of a tree, etc.) in the woods when deer hunting, these 3 traditional black powder rifles are very accurate aided by the use of their double-set triggers.

I believe the set-triggers help in giving a greater capability for better accuracy whether shooting off the bench or off-hand. :thumbsup:


Strength & Honor...

Ron T.