Have you done this yourself or did you send them out to be done? I have an older Pedersoli .45 barrel that needs bored and lined. I tried boring and reaming it myself, but it seems there is a problem spot (soft or different grain structure, you can see it in the chips) in the barrel that I can not get past without the hand tools deviating. Any suggestions on who I might send it to?
I’ve done all of my own. It’s good to have a pilot on your drill to keep it true to the bore, but, not always needed. Don’t worry about reaming. You want the bored hole to be rough for better adhesion. I’ve hit rough spots that seem sometimes harder or soft. Just fight through it. Rough up the outside of the liner. Clean everything good with acetone. Then loctite it. It takes guts, because if the drilling goes wrong, you have an ugly piece of pipe, and the need for a new barrel. Lol
I would have replaced it with a new one already but ..... it's bigger than 3/4" ATF - smaller than 13/16" - not quite an even metric size at 21.15mm. It's a pretty little gun that I rescued from completely useless (lock inop, sewer pipe barrel with surface rust, 1/8" of varnish mixed with a disgusting layer of smoke and nicotine). It's pretty good now except the barrel is not accurate. It ended up being about a .48 cal smooth-bore, but that spot buggers the accuracy. Picts
That GOOGLE is for B/L Unmentionables..O.D.
Yes, I thought of that and tried it. I wish I had saved pictures of the chips when I reamed it. The material at the bad spot changes from nice, fine grained steel to a coarse - almost dirty cast iron - material. And it is not distributed uniformly around the circumfrence of the barrel, it's off to one side so the tool wants to drift towards the softer material. And I agree about the smooth rifle. I actually think a small calibre smoothie would be better for my circumstances hunting small game. I rarely shoot more than 30yds, max is 50yds and 95% of it is done at between +15F to -40F. I have a .32cal T/C Cherokee, but almost always hunt with my .56 cal smooth-bore. It's too much trouble trying to get a tite patch & ball combo down that tiny bore once the lube stiffens up and the barrel gets super cold. I forgot to mention doing all that on snow shoes in up to your eyeballs snow.
Thanks! I'll contact him to see if he's interested.
No personal criticism of you, but I've found the opposite to be true. This with lined MLer's allowed in NSSA competition over many years at their Spring and Fall National Championships and done by Bobbie Hoyt.
He turned dozens of "Reject" Navy Arms Smith Carbines with REVERSE taper bores (meaning smaller at the breech and larger at the muzzle) into great shooters by relining them. I've seen his work on many other MLer's that shot great afterward as well.
However, the one that REALLY stands out in my mind after viewing dozens of such NSSA Arms Hoyt did, was an 1855 Rifle (not the longer Rifle Musket) on which he performed almost magic. The barrel had been cut off a little under 8 inches and smooth bored when they "sporterized" such guns after the UnCivil War.
Hoyt "stretched" it back out to full length, which means he added on the outer barrel shell to proper full length and lined the whole thing. Even when using my Opti Visor PLUS a powerful magnifier with it, I could just barely see it at the muzzle, BUT I could not detect the spot he added on the piece to make the barrel full length. But that's not all.....
I knew the owner VERY well. He was a very good shot, but not a great shot. Still, the first time he fired it in National Competition, he placed 3rd in the individual championships. After getting over me being stunned by his score, I later kidded him the Rifle got him into the Top Three, not his shooting.
I have never had the need for Bobby's services, but recommended him to dozens of folks who used his services. Trust me, I looked long and hard for a "sporterized" original for him to work on, but never found one at a good price.
Gus
The several modern gun liners I installed had to be tapped in with a rawhide mallet after barrel and outside of liner were degreased and coated w/ light layer of epoxy. Having the right liner drill was very important.
Hello. Yes you got the general idea. I chopped some old barrels up to see if I could machine them to re sleeve them. Bit of a skills test and not that difficult once I had fathomed out how to do it I cut the barrels off a bit longer than needed and welded a peg into one barrel to hold in lathe then just bored that chamber out on lathe. Then I cut off the barrel I did not need and welded the peg into the other barrel and bored that one out. Dead pleased with myself. Never got around to turning up new tubes to fit , but thought about pistol sized tubes to make a Howda type pistol. Never progress as that would be illegal in uk. Enjoy
A number of three-barreled long guns were made around & after the time of Mr. Lincon's war. Here is my Wicker & Hagadorn, two .38 cal. rifles over a 16 gauge shotgun.
To fire the lower (shotgun) barrel, one must swing that blued steel thing over onto the lower (shotgun) nipple.
This gun represents my entire collection of Michigan guns now.
