Slug for lapping

[davesonic444]

How do you go about making slugs from lead for barrel lapping?

 

[bezoar]

Are you trying to figure out the exact size of your barrels bore, or are you trying to polish the bore of your barrel?

If you are merely trying to polish it, a cleaning jag jag and a patch with a polishing compound seems to do wonders for lapping ones barrel.

If you are trying to slug the barrel and thus figure out the exact diameter of the bore, you would merely need to push a lead ball thru the barrel.

 

[Stumpkiller]

One method. Jamb a DRY rag in the breech about 2" and insert a NEW undersize wire cleaning brush that is just touching the lands (threads towards you and above the barrel). Pour the lead in to just below the barrel edge. When cool, remove and apply the lapping compound and re-insert from the breech end. lap away.

But I do agree with the above post. A gentle lap with compound on cloth is the safer & more conservative approach. Metal don't grow back.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

How do you go about making slugs from lead for barrel lapping?

If you are wanting to lap for clean up, use one of the green 3-M abrasive pads. (different colors will denote how aggressive the abrasive) I take a wiping stick with radial grooves cut or ground on one end and wrap a strip of the pad around it to insure a very snug fit in the bore .

Sometimes, if bore is really bad, I will also impregnate the pad with valve lapping compound, or go to one of the more aggressive pads.

 

[CoyoteJoe]

If you are wanting to actually lap the bore, lands and grooves, to remove pits, roughness and even out or choke the bore, the suggestions for polishing the top of the lands won't get it.
You first will need a lapping rod. Cleaning rods won't do. You need at least a 5/16" solid steel rod with a two-handed cross handle on ball bearings. An old bicycle front hub works well for bearings.
Some cast the slug right on the rod but I've drilled and tapped my rod end to take standard jags, otherwise you'll need to file notches in the rod to hold the slug. Then wrap with rags or string to fill the bore and leaving about 1 1/2" of rod or the jag exposed. Insert the rod with the tip at least one inch below any muzzle cone.
Clamp the barrel with rod in place upright in a vice. Heat the end of the barrel too hot to touch and pour in very hot lead still keeping the level below the muzzle cone. Push it not all the way out to inspect and if you've done well it should not have many wrinkles or voids. Some tin in the lead makes for a better cast. Let it cool, oil the slug and draw it to the breech. Push back and forth the length of the barrel but don't let it come all the way out. A stop on the rod is very helpful. The slug generally can't come out the breech end because a ring of steel is turned in by the breech threading process.
Now you're ready to add a very little valve grinding compound and with several days of hard work you'll have a bore better than new.
:: ::---Have Fun--- ::

 

[rabbit03]

I have to agree with Stumpkiller on this. I did the same to my GM barrel back in the mid 80's. The barrel loads and shoots very smoothly. In fact the gun won the state championship two years ago. The only thing I can add is I indexed mine when I took it out so I could go back in the same grooves! Oh yeah, the gun is on the 2nd owner now and no telling how many shots have been put through it.

(The old timers new their stuff)

 

[davesonic444]

I have an old barrel that is badly rusted and thought try lapping with a slug to keep everything uniform.
Thanks to all who replied i will temper my decision with your good advise.
Bye

 

[LRB]

You need to listen to Coyote Joe if you want it right. The other methods mentioned are subject to round off the edges of your lands. While you don't want them knife sharp, you don't want them rounded off either. True lapping is done the way CJ described and is not done in a few minutes of scrubbing with an abrasive cloth that will not form to the rifling with equal contact.

 

[Mainer]

You might also check into the NECO lapping system. I read about it a few years ago in a popular muzzleloading magazine. It's kinda expensive and labor intensive but according to the article it did wonders for the rifles accuracy, velocity and fouling. :results: :m2c:

 

[riarcher]

I don't see anyone recommending "Fire Lapping".
I've heard great things about this method by some. I've always wondered about what happens to the breach end, obviously that must get missed in fire lapping. Would think that area would be equally important to help reduce stuck fouling and good seating of the load? Never tried it,,,, but thought about it a couple of times.

 

[Tahquamenon]

I don't make them but I always shoot 20-40+ cheapest conicals from a new rifle to help break in the barrel.

Is there something wrong with your rifle?

Here is a thread on lapping that may help:

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/ubbthr...=true#Post98432

 

[davesonic444]

No i don't have a major problem with my barrel. I can see some leftover tooling marks in it and thought about lapping.
I must say it shoots quite well as is though.
Thanks.
Dave

 

[jimbo15563]

Here's advice on breaking in a new barrel from Ernie Stallman of:

Badger Barrels

Jimbo