small threaded hole in GPR tang

[keving]

Hello to all, I purchased a flintlock GPR kit and I noticed a small threaded hole in the middle of my tang. I also have a GPR percussion rifle that I purchased a couple years ago that came already finished and it has a plug screw in this hole, my kit did not come with this plug screw. Does anyone know what the purpose of this small hole is for?
I refinished the stock on my percussion rifle because in my opinion they come stained way to dark. I sanded it down and put 10 coats of Tru-Oil on it and then I took the sheen off with some 0000 steel wool. While I had it apart I browned the barrel and all the iron parts except the trigger and the lock, it looks much better now. On my kit rifle I would like to keep the walnut as light as possible and I was wondering if anyone has used Tru-Oil only after the sanding is finished.
I have been reading this forum for a few months now and I must say it is truely a valuable source of information. Thanks to any replies.

 

[flm_shooter]

My wife has a LH Lyman Deerstalker that I have slowly been "de-modernizing". Set triggers, non-black hardware, etc. It is my understanding that the threaded hole is for a tang sight. Since we only shoot open sight out here, I haven't even mentioned it to her as an option.

Am thinking of sanding down and re-finishing the stock next. But first to go is the rubber buttplate.

 

Fillmore Shooter hit it right. I seen a pic on one of the web-sites of a sight mounted in the tang but dang if i remember what web-site it was.

Woody

 

[keving]

I looked through the manual and saw a peep sight for these rifles. I should have figured that was what the hole is for. So far the kit is coming together nicely. They come with alot of extra wood but I was really impressed with how precise the inletting is. I squared off the rounded cheek piece to the style of the older stocked Hawkens(just to be a little different). Those wood rasp really do a number on the wood as well as your fingers.
I used Laurel Mountain Forge cold browning solution. It is a great product. With patience you can really achieve a very attractive old timey brown finish. I used the 12 hour method and scrubbed the parts with some old blue jean scraps. It took me about a week to achieve the deep brown color that I wanted, it was worth it as the rifle looks completely different with the browned parts opposed to the blackish colored metal the gun came with.
I am going to brown the lock on my kit rifle as the color cased hardened finish that comes on them was not very even. I just wish that ugly engraving was'nt on the lock.

 

I've built two GPR kits recently. Stained the first real dark, that's the one I kept. The second one had such beautiful wood I only used BC True-Oil, no stain whatsoever. My step-dad loved the wood so now it's his. The True-Oil darkened it quite a bit and looks great. I did put the 0000 steel wool to it to remove the high gloss. :results: Here's a crappy photo of my first one with the stained stock.

 

[CrackStock]

You might want to look at one of these peeps someday. I have a friend who shot very well with one on her Lancaster. She actually had 2 of them in case one developed a problem. They are removable and there is a locking mount that allows you to put them right back in place. Pretty handy. I ordered one for my GPR. It is great for target work, but not good for low light hunting as there is not enough light in some wooded situations to see well. I have used it for hunting in open and well lighted situations, but even then, some of your view of the game is blocked by the peep.

T/C used to do the same thing, but now you either need to drill a hole or hunt around for the older version tang.

YMHS,
CrackStock

 

[keving]

I finished sanding my stock today and I applied Tru-oil to the stock without any stain. It darkened up some what but nothing near the color they come with from the factory. I like it but I should warn that the blond colored wood grain in walnut does not darken much and does somewhat stand out a little. It does not bother me because I have made furniture from walnut before and expected the blond (sapwood?) to remain light.

I am now getting my iron parts ready for browning with Laurel Mountain Forge solution, the only problem is I am out and went to Brownell's website to order more and they are out of stock also. I then checked around and went to MidwayUSA's site but they want $7.50 for shipping and I think I live in the same state as Midway(MO), plus they have a $3.00 special handling fee for what purpose I have no idea because it is non-toxic. LMF only cost around $7.50 a bottle and I think their shipping price is a little steep, I think it was about $3.00 from Brownells.Does anyone else know who sells LMF online?

 

Thanks. I used BC Plum Brown on the metal and I stained the wood with Ebony oil stain from Minwax on the GPR in the photo. I had one heck of a time figuring out how to post a photo but here's how I do it. Go to[url] Photobucket.com[/url] and set up an account(it's free)and put photos on your photobucket album. The images must be jpg files to add them to your album. I had to resave my images which were on my computer's desktop(downloaded straight from my girlfriend's digital camera) and once you get them onto photobucket you can resize them with the edit button, I think the image size requirements are in the FAQ section of this forum but it's something like no bigger than say 800 by 600 pixels or something, you need to look to be sure. Below your images on photobucket you will see three address looking things and you need to copy down the URL, I think it's the one in the middle and will be something like http//img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/oldsalt/gunpic1.jpg Then, when you post a message and want add a photo to it look down beside the Instant Gremlins under Instant UBB Code and click on Image, a window will pop up and ask you to enter the URL I just told you about, it's long. Do that and click OK. It's easy once you get used to it. If your image is too large you will get a message which pops up aftger you try to send it and reminds you of the limit. Save your original images on your computer somewhere because if you reduce you picture too much on photobucket you can enlarge again, you start over. Good luck. I hope I didn't forget anything.

 

I finished sanding my stock today and I applied Tru-oil to the stock without any stain. It darkened up some what but nothing near the color they come with from the factory. I like it but I should warn that the blond colored wood grain in walnut does not darken much and does somewhat stand out a little. It does not bother me because I have made furniture from walnut before and expected the blond (sapwood?) to remain light.

I am now getting my iron parts ready for browning with Laurel Mountain Forge solution, the only problem is I am out and went to Brownell's website to order more and they are out of stock also. I then checked around and went to MidwayUSA's site but they want $7.50 for shipping and I think I live in the same state as Midway(MO), plus they have a $3.00 special handling fee for what purpose I have no idea because it is non-toxic. LMF only cost around $7.50 a bottle and I think their shipping price is a little steep, I think it was about $3.00 from Brownells.Does anyone else know who sells LMF online?

Jim Chambers has it as well as TOW

Woody

 

[keving]

Thanks. I think I will order some flints also from TOTW while I am on their site. The flint that came with my GPR looks like some synthetic man made stone.

 

[REX]

Fillmore Shooter:
I also have a LH deerstalker (a flinter), that I a'm trying to de-modernizing. I've replaced the rubber recoil pad with a curved brass butt plate I got from Cain's Outdoor, would like to know what parts you have replaced and where you got them.
Thanks from a fellow Northern Californian.
rex (westcoastBPgramps)
BP can be fun

 

[flm_shooter]

Sorry for the delayed reply, I was on a trip. I replaced the single trigger with a double-set trigger by InvestArm. It's TOTW part# TR-DST-IA. This required some inletting changes to fit. You also have to scrap the triggerguard, it won't fit the double triggers. I used one from TOTW in german silver (TG-E-3-S). I replaced the barrel key plates with nickel ones (part IN-SLOT-4-S, I think) and the lock screw washer will be replaced with nickel-silver teardrop style next. (Ran out of time before the trip). I also replaced the sights with more traditional-looking ones.

Future plans include a poured-pewter nosecap and a real buttplate. Inletting the trigger guard was a learning experience for me, and I left visible gaps in several spots. DW is happy with the results, but I want to do better. Maybe later I'll get a whole new stock and try again.

I'll post a pic or two as soon as the kid gets up from his nap, I left the camera in his room.

Side story about the trigger: I had an earlier post where I put it in wrong. I pulled it out to post a picture on this web site and got the correct answer. Then, I lost the trigger. I tore the house apart for 2 weeks and could not find it. In desperation, I did the one sure-fire trick for finding lost parts: I ordered another one. Yup, 1 day after the new trigger arrived, the old one appeared. So, I now have a brand-new double-set trigger. If you want it, PM me. I don't want to have to do a return.

 

[flm_shooter]

Don't think I'm ready for a full rifle kit yet.

 

[REX]

Fillmore shooter:
nice job on the trigger and guard, :thumbsup: I think I'm going to try a brass patch box next, I want a simple design, I think I found one at muzzleloaders builders supply.
rex (westcoastBPgramps)
BP can be fun