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I am not familiar with the traditions lock's but if it is a leaf spring vs a coil like TC's it will work. even works on frizzen springs.
thank youI am not familiar with the traditions lock's but if it is a leaf spring vs a coil like TC's it will work. even works on frizzen springs.
If the lock has a mainspring…it will work.do you know if this works on the traditions ky rifle lock?
for that matter if anyone knows of one that does please let us know.
I tell people, new guys especially, about this all the time. Do not fill the pan and after you close the frozen rotate the gun a bit to the right and give the side plate a small "rap" to move the powder away from the touch hole. That and wipe the frizzen and flint (top and bottom) with my thumb, helps ensure good ignition. My first ml rifle was a CVA Kentucky. Shoots great, but lock is as you say. Little things, done each time, helps ensure consistent ignition.Mine worked best when I filled it about 1/2 full, closed the frizzen and then holding the rifle by its wrist I would quickly twist my wrist with a snapping motion to the right.
Often this is the result of the frizzen rebounding and striking the flint. Usually caused by a weak frizzen spring. Made a leather that extends out to the end of the flint on top and see if this gets marked by the frizzen on rebound.Hello all. I am very new to the forum. Have spent hours here and there reading about Flintlocks. I am not new to muzzleloading but I am new to flintlock. I was given a traditions Kentucky. The previous owner put a tvm lock on it. It's seems to be striking the frizzen at a good angle the spring tension seems good. 3.1 lb on the frizzen and 9.6 on the ****. Numbers courtesy of my fish scale. The flint strikes about 3/4 up the frizzen and slides completely down the face ending about center of the pan. The flints measure 5/8x3/4. The problem I'm having is the flint is getting smashed, I only get 5-7 shots before the top **** jaw contacts the frizzen. What is going on here?
Any ideas would help
You need to look at Larry Pletcher’s flintlock timing videos. Blackpowder mag.comI tell people, new guys especially, about this all the time. Do not fill the pan and after you close the frozen rotate the gun a bit to the right and give the side plate a small "rap" to move the powder away from the touch hole. That and wipe the frizzen and flint (top and bottom) with my thumb, helps ensure good ignition. My first ml rifle was a CVA Kentucky. Shoots great, but lock is as you say. Little things, done each time, helps ensure consistent ignition.
I guess my 40 some years shooting them is wrong. Filming the pan up makes ignition slower.You need to look at Larry Pletcher’s flintlock timing videos. Blackpowder mag.com
I thick you will find it here
Experiments & Tests | BlackPowderMag.com. But there is a lot of info on the site.
A lot of what some people “know” about flintlock priming is wrong. I always put plenty of prime in the pan. Something I have learned over 50 plus years of shooting FL arms.
Filming with pan up?I guess my 40 some years shooting them is wrong. Filming the pan up makes ignition slower.
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