SMR cheek piece moulding

[Texcl2]

I was thinking of adding one or two simple grooves or incised lines (hope that’s the word) on the cheek of my .32 SMR kit. What do yall think would be appropriate? I’ve seen deep round grooves on an original, I’ve seen simple lines on contemporary guns. I got my trusty Quaker stock out and cut two presentable v grooves in with a v gouge and then a triangle file. It wasn’t that easy to make it look good but my v gouge was a little dull. Would it be better to mark the lines then saw in a cut with a hack saw then follow it with a file of the correct profile?

 

[tenngun]

I have them on mine, used a hacksaw then thin flat file

 

[Johnny Too-Tall]

I got them too on mine simple but elegant

 

[rich pierce]

A cheekpiece is one of the few places where a saw can be used easily with enough clearance. It eliminates any wandering. Marks it out nice and clean to be followed up however you wish.

 

[Polecat_Tom]

I put mine in with a backsaw followed up with a file to round to shape.

 

[FlaminCrow]

I was thinking of adding one or two simple grooves or incised lines (hope that’s the word) on the cheek of my .32 SMR kit. What do yall think would be appropriate? I’ve seen deep round grooves on an original, I’ve seen simple lines on contemporary guns. I got my trusty Quaker stock out and cut two presentable v grooves in with a v gouge and then a triangle file. It wasn’t that easy to make it look good but my v gouge was a little dull. Would it be better to mark the lines then saw in a cut with a hack saw then follow it with a file of the correct profile?

Hacksaw helps. Keep those gouges sharp, even with guide it can still runoff.

 

[tenngun]

Mine
Hunting wound under the cheak

 

[Texcl2]

Looks good, I think I will use the hack saw to start the cuts straight then file out to a round profile since most originals I’ve seen had round cuts.

 

[Mgbruch]

Here are a couple on rifles that I've built.

I draw lines, to make sure I like what I see. From some of the work I've seen on the forum, it looks like some folks just start cutting blind. I start with a small (sharp) v gouge, and tap it with a mallet. Using a mallet gives you much better control. I can get the lines pretty straight... but never perfect. Then I use a triangular file to deepen, and straighten the grooves. Finally, I use needle files to give the lines whatever contour I want.

Whatever tools you use, make sure your design is symmetrical, and your lines straight. Good work adds to the beauty of a gun. Poor work detracts from it. Take your time. Plan and execute. Do good work.

 

[longcruise]

Those look good

 

[Texcl2]

Those look awesome! The cool thing I’ve noticed after searching for pictures of originals over the last week is that there is a great variety of styles. Most appear to be to be rounded, I still haven’t decided what I’m going to do. I sanded my Quaker stock back down so I can practice making the moldings a couple more times before the cheek piece is completely sanded off. I’m most likely will do two round grooves that follow the outside edge of the cheek by the same distance.

 

[waksupi]

I use a checkering liner.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

Here's mine.

 

[bldtrailer]

saw and round files

 

[Rock Home Isle]

So happy that I found this thread…

 

[James Kibler]

It's a good idea to look at original work to get ideas on what you would like to do and what will look appropriate.