SMR half **** problem

[Eras Gone]

I finished my SMR recently and I'm very pleased with it. It was a breeze to assemble and looks great now that it is finished.

I'm having trouble with the **** stopping on half **** when using the set trigger. It falls fine and sparks great using only the front tigger.

The fly appears to be in place, although it does not seem long enough to keep the sear from skipping over the half **** notch.

I've tried loosning the lock bolt and trigger screws, just to try to detect a difference. Inletting black on the end of the sear does not show that it is dragging on the lock mortice anywhere. Is this a lock problem, or a set trigger issue.

Thanks for any ideas!

 

[TDM]

How does the trigger assembly operate when removed? The Kibler trigger and Lock are certainly top notch but still require polishing and turning. On mine the set trigger spring was way too tight out of the box.

 

[akroguy]

Maybe your fly ain't flyin'. Got some oil on it? Any burrs on or around where it sits? I'm sure Mr. Kibler would provide excellent direction on remedying it.

 

[TDM]

Agree, with @akroguy that you should contact Kibler directly and explain just what’s happening to yours.

 

[BruceHH]

Try tightening the inside screws of the lock plate. You could have one or more a little loose allowing the fly to not operate properly. Does this lock have the fly on the outside of the tumbler or beneath it? I believe there are two variations of his SMR lock.

 

[64Springer]

Call the people who manufactured it.

 

[stikshooter]

Call Jim he'll splain it !/Ed

 

[James Kibler]

Can’t think of anything other than the fly is missing. Did you take the lock apart? The fly is easy to lose. If you’re not sure you can send it back for us to check out.

Thanks
Jim

 

[Ames]

If the fly is beneath the tumbler it may have been put back in upside down. That can cause frustrations beyond explanation. Dont ask how I know.

 

[TDM]

Can’t think of anything other than the fly is missing. Did you take the lock apart? The fly is easy to lose. If you’re not sure you can send it back for us to check out.

Thanks
Jim

That’s what’s called Great customer service!

 

[James Kibler]

If the fly is beneath the tumbler it may have been put back in upside down. That can cause frustrations beyond explanation. Dont ask how I know.

It’s impossible to install the fly backwards in our locks

 

[Ames]

Never opened your lock. The fly cant be put in upside down by mistake?

 

[TDM]

Never opened your lock. The fly cant be put in upside down by mistake?

The Kibler fly has a pin, can only go in one way.

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

It’s impossible to install the fly backwards in our locks

Oh man. An entire legion of people that have no business tinkering with things just accepted your challenge.

 

[Eras Gone]

I sent an Email to Kibler about 5-6 days ago asking for suggestions. No response yet.

 

[TDM]

I sent an Email to Kibler about 5-6 days ago asking for suggestions. No response yet.

Jim Kibler responded to your post.

 

[Bushfire]

I sent an Email to Kibler about 5-6 days ago asking for suggestions. No response yet.

Post 8 and 11 is Jim Kibler.

 

[Thomas.bill92]

Definitely a fly problem! I lost mine unknowingly when I disassembled my lock for finishing and it did exactly what you are describing. One call and they had me all set! Wonderful company to deal with.

 

[LongWalker]

I sent an Email to Kibler about 5-6 days ago asking for suggestions. No response yet.

Eras Gone, I can understand the frustration of not getting a response (I waited a year before ordering one of their rifles for similar reasons), but this is a situation where it is best to go back to the manufacturer. They'll be able to check your fly and see if there is a problem with it, or the tumbler or sear--and they'll have the parts to correct the problem. Good luck!

 

[Fly103]

Does the lock function correctly if removed from the stock?

If not:
I had the same issue with my SMR and it was entirely my fault. In my case the lock inlet wasnt quite deep enough underneath the bridle area and while tightening the lock screw would pull the pan flush with the barrel it would also pinch the bridle against the wood binding the fly. I only had to remove maybe .005" worth of material to get enough depth to solve the problem. I also had a bit of binding going on around the front of the mainspring that was imparting a very subtle warp to the lock plate.

in short, get some transfer color and apply it to the lock plate and lock internals. make sure you have uniform contact around the edge of the lock plate and NO contact between the stock and any of the lock internals or main spring. Also, back the lock screw off a turn, you want a snug fit but dont want to be mashing things together.

hope this helps
Chris